Cibo e Vino

Decanter November 2017

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

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1 minuti
jack london vineyard, sonoma

The Jack London vineyard covers 51ha within the Sonoma Mountain AVA in the small town of Glen Ellen, California. It’s named after the American novelist Jack London, who bought the estate – including a winery that historic Californian duo Kohler & Frohling had owned – in 1911. By that time, grape prices had plummeted to just $11 per tonne, and the vineyards were replaced with corn and alfalfa. Thankfully, they were reinstated and today’s vines are 30 years old. The plants in the foreground are Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel stretches towards the forest. These slopes were volcanically formed, influencing its soils which are now overlaid with clay loam. Since 1976, they have been the source of Kenwood Vineyards’ ‘Jack London’ red wines, which are known for their full-bodied character and…

2 minuti
john stimpfig

ALMOST EXACTLY TWENTY years ago, I first met and interviewed the brilliant, beguiling Angelo Gaja, resulting in two glorious days driving around Barbaresco and Barolo. Despite being a rookie wine writer, Gaja accompanied me throughout, providing me with an astonishing running commentary on the region he loved so ardently. Apart from Angelo’s cavalier approach to road safety, I recall an astonishing array of bottles, from his father’s legendary ’61 Barolo to his own single-vineyard Nebbiolos, including a 1989 Barolo Sperss and Sorì San Lorenzo. As I was leaving, he proffered a large bag containing a hardback book and wooden wine box. The book was Edward Steinberg’s The Making of a Great Wine: Gaja and Sorì San Lorenzo. ‘It will give you everything I forgot to tell you, and drink the wines when…

6 minuti
a month in wine

Italy faces drastic drop in 2017 harvests ITALY WILL SEE one of its smallest wine harvests for 60 years in 2017, down by 25% on the year before and coming in at 41.1 million hectolitres — just under 5.5 billion bottles – according to estimates from national wine body Assoenologi. Devastating spring frosts, isolated hailstorms and a heatwave known as ‘Lucifer’ have combined to curtail the size of the 2017 wine harvest across several regions. Tuscany, Umbria, Abruzzo, Puglia and Sicily have fared worst overall in terms of yields, down by at least 30% against last year, with things looking slightly better in northern Italy. In the north, Piedmont, Veneto and Friuli were collectively predicted to see a harvest 15% smaller than 2016, Assoenologi said. ‘So far, for all varieties, the grapes are smaller than…

1 minuti
in brief

English wine accounted for 1,500 of the 3,052 bottles bought for the UK government’s hospitality cellar in the 2016/2017 tax year, Foreign Office figures show. At ‘high-profile receptions’, 52% of wine consumed was English, whereas 10 years ago, just 20% of wines served at such events were produced in England. Coravin has added a resealable screwcap version to its argon gas-based wine preservation system collection. According to inventor and company founder Greg Lambrecht, the new caps will keep wine fresh for up to three months, when used in conjunction with the original Coravin system. An Xpeditr ‘emergency response team’ removed 20,000 bottles worth up to $5 million from the collections of anxious residents in Florida and other nearby US states, as September’s hurricane Irma was approaching, the specialist logistics company reported to…

3 minuti

Birthday inspiration I HAD BEEN agonising over what to drink for my 65th birthday, which arrived rather too soon and without warning. Lo and behold, my August edition of Decanter arrived in the mail with the answer, in the ‘Wine Legend’ slot: Te Mata, Coleraine 1998. I happened to have a bottle (sadly only one) in my cellar, so felt I was being guided to that by the article. I’m so glad I took the hint. I opened it with my wife and a couple of friends, to accompany my birthday dinner and we enjoyed every drop of the greatest New Zealand Cabernet blend we have ever tasted. Jeremy Coleman, Auckland, New Zealand Happy holidays HAVING SPENT MANY happy weeks touring around this region, I would like to make a bid for the Loire as…

1 minuti
letter of the month

THERE SEEMS TO be a perennial battle on the pages and among the readers of this fine publication. What’s the point of reviewing Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Romanée-Conti 2015 when: a) we all know it will be brilliant; and b) only a few very rich people will ever get to drink it? Why not dedicate more column inches to value offers? Surely there is room for both: everyday advice and drinking fantasy. When it comes to the latter, I’m reminded of a comment attributed to US comedian George Burns in his dotage. Back when travelling first class was just that, he was asked by a flight attendant which magazines he would like. ‘National Geographic and Playboy please.’ When the attendant commented that this was a rather strange and diverse selection,…