Cibo e Vino

Decanter March 2018

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

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12 Numeri

in questo numero

1 minuti
the joy of terroir

The Urizar vineyard covers 2ha of lush hillsides in Etxano, just outside Bilbao in the Basque Country’s Biscay province. It was created in 2003 when Gorka Izagirre planted Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia vines beside the stone farmhouse pictured, now his family home. The south-facing vines of this white variety grow in shallow clay-loam soils over marl bedrock, which are well-adapted to the region’s steep slopes and rainy conditions. Hondarrabi Zuri Zerratia is one of the three main indigenous grapes used to make Txakolí (see p110). Izagirre keeps it as a varietal or blends it with Hondarrabi Zuri to make wines particular to the Txakolí de Bizkaia appellation: light-bodied, mineral and low in alcohol. In winter, the Urizar vineyard is occupied by a herd of Latxa sheep, owned by a local shepherd…

2 minuti
john stimpfig

MIGUEL TORRES IS an example of all that is good in life and wine. Now aged in his 70s, the president of Bodegas Torres and 2002 Decanter Man of the Year is learning Russian, playing his guitar and travelling the world. He’s no longer involved in day-to-day decision making at the global winery group, but that doesn’t mean he has slowed down. Arguably, the opposite is true; he continues to make a difference – and not just in wine. Most recently, he was rallying support for his beloved city of Barcelona which has suffered in the wake of a terrorist attack and the divisive Catalan independence movement. His consuming passion, however, is the fight against climate change. This began in 2007 when he saw the film An Inconvenient Truth: ‘Afterwards, I said…

6 minuti
amonth in wine

OBITUARY Bruno Giacosa 1929–2017 BRUNO GIACOSA DIED on the night of 21 January, in Alba’s San Lazzaro hospital, aged 88. He had reportedly suffered from ill health for some time. Giacosa had attained legendary status among Barolo producers, having been part of a new wave of winemakers in Piedmont in the 1960s. Bottling Barolo and Barbaresco wine since that decade, Giacosa acquired his own vineyards in 1982. His Falletto vineyard in Serralunga would go on to become one of the finest crus of the Langhe. He would later buy Barbaresco vineyards, mainly in Neive, and other prime Barolo parcels, including in La Morra, while also managing vineyards owned by other growers. From his first apprenticeship at the family winery, he showed his propensity for breaking with tradition, selecting bought-in grapes and bottling on the basis…

1 minuti
in brief

Alfred Georgis was sentenced to 37 months in prison for conspiring to transport more than $500,000 worth of wine, stolen on Christmas Day 2014 from Michelin-starred restaurant The French Laundry in Yountsville, Napa. Georgis admitted to being involved in the heist, which involved the burglary of 110 bottles of wine, including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Screaming Eagle and Dom Pérignon. Davis Kiryakoz, his co-conspirator, is currently serving a 15-month prison sentence. Ian Harris, chief executive of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, has been awarded an MBE in the Queen’s New Year’s Honours for his services to the wine and spirit industry. Since Harris joined as chief executive in 2002, annual candidate numbers have risen from 10,000 to 85,000. In addition, Gerard Basset OBE, MW, MS, MBA, OIV MSc has…

3 minuti

Champagne and age Cork vs screwcap I ENJOYED JOHN Stimpfig’s reflections on ‘age-defying Champagnes’ (January 2018 issue) – wines that improve over decades, ‘sometimes even centuries’. What a contrast with your Champagne tasting in the same edition. Here three experts unanimously deemed André Jacquart’s 2008 ‘Outstanding’. So, how many decades might this wine, from a great vintage, last and improve? The drinking span given was just four years, to 2022. And Michael Edwards called the wine ‘a true classic, a real keeper’! So who do we believe? I recently enjoyed a bottle of Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque 1996. It was only towards the end of my second glass that it started to open up. My conclusion is that the wine would benefit from further cellarage. So I am with John Stimpfig on this. Howard Ripley,…

1 minuti
patience rewarded

WHEN IS THE right time to open an old wine? All too often we end up leaving the bottle for another day… And thus we arrive at my 65th birthday in December 2017. The time has arrived! A 1975 Croizet-Bages had lain undisturbed under the stairs for 25 years but my heart sank on retrieving it; the level was halfway down the shoulder. I pressed on. The capsule disintegrated, and the cork was soggy – then crumbled. I’d already decided not to decant, fearing that aeration would simply bring it on and kill it off too quickly. A tea strainer served the purpose well. The aroma was unremarkable. The colour was rich red, the rim light but not brown. But the taste! The most delicious, soft, and rounded flavour; everything I could…