CELEBRATE
CHRISTMAS IS THE MOST intriguing dichotomy of tradition and dining anarchy. Of excess, then penance (if FebFast is not reparation, then I don’t know what is). It is a charming mishmash of rituals that demand you break all the rules you set all year; moderation is a dirty word and anything, almost, is acceptable. We spend all year trying to save time and do things quickly; at Christmas, when we eat, drink, cook and prepare, we’ll spend hours, maybe months on customs like turkeys and puddings. For the most part, I find this time of year so very pleasurable. Eggnog on the eve that leads into Champagne breakfasts; seafood, ham and rosé for lunch; and the good whisky for dinner is really my kind of life. However, while this issue should…