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National Geographic Traveler

National Geographic Traveler June-July 2013

National Geographic Traveler is the world's most widely read travel magazine. With captivating storytelling and beautiful you-are-there photography, National Geographic Traveler brings you the world’s best destinations. Experience the same high-quality articles and breathtaking photography contained in the print edition.

United States
National Geographic Society
Back issues only
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1 minuti
new norm for lodges?

WHEN I BECAME THE EDITOR of this magazine 15 years ago, the word “ecolodge” suggested places that were so pared down and dutiful that many travelers were regarding them as the domain of the backpacker—all basic furnishings and uninspired food. Therefore it is astonishing to see how much the lodging industry has changed in little more than a decade . I never much liked the prefi x “eco” because innovative hotels and lodges such as those we’re featuring in our special section on page 58 are so much more than green-conscious places in which to stay. They source their food, products, and workers locally. They proudly preserve an authentic sense of place. They celebrate and cherish the local culture. They fi ght to conserve indigenous landscapes and species. And they…

1 minuti
warsaw rising

THE COLD WAR, ILLUMINATED In the 1960s and ’70s, colorful neon signs brightened Warsaw’s often drab cityscape and, over time, became part of the city’s cultural fabric. As modern advertisements replaced them, the signs were taken down. A sampler now is on exhibit at the Neon Museum—an homage to Warsaw’s underground spirit. TIME TRAVEL Warsaw’s ghetto wall, built by the Nazis in World War II, confi ned more than 400,000 Jews. Now all but demolished, the barricade—or at least a remnant—can be viewed in a yard between Złota and Sienna streets, a poignant reminder of one of the most turbulent chapters in Warsaw’s history. TRADITIONAL VICTUALS You won’t fi nd upscale dishes at Przeka˛ski Zaka˛ski. Instead you’ll enjoy such Polish specialties as nózki—a jellied consommé with pork— and s´ledzie, pickled herring with cream and onions.…

3 minuti
homeward bound

YOUR ROOTS ARE SHOWING. Our April 2013 cover story (above)—which featured fi ve essays by writers who traveled to their motherlands, from Taiwan to Sicily—hit close to home for readers. “An unexpected Facebook message from a Swedish cousin in 2008 launched trips to visit family in Sweden, California, Italy, and Canada,” wrote Brian Stenberg of Boca Raton, Fla. “At every turn we felt at home, as if decades and centuries had not passed. The phrase Liz Beatty wrote, ‘shared genetic memory,’ almost brought me to tears. It exists in this transient world and is a powerful motivation to continue the journey.” Barbara Murphy of Auburn, N.Y., shared her tale of genealogy luck: “In 2010 my husband and I traveled to England. Before we left, I sent a vague letter ‘to…

1 minuti
going with the flow

BILLOWING ASH FROM Iceland’s Eyjaf allajökull volcano dashed travel plans in 2010, but travel to the icebound peak has been booming since that eruption grounded millions across Europe. Volcano tourism is fl aring up globally, and Iceland isn’t the only hot spot. ¶ New Zealand’s Mount Tongariro rumbled back to life last August, spurring an uptick in visitors to the long-dormant volcano. On Hawaii’s Big Island, Kilauea volcano recently marked 30 years of nonstop eruption (the longest in recorded history), but after lava started cascading dramatically into the Pacifi c this winter, visitors began fl ocking with renewed vigor. Located in a national park that’s open 24 hours a day, Kilauea of ers surreal twilight views, with the renovated Volcano House—the only U.S. hotel on an active volcano—newly reopened. “Seeing…

1 minuti
social climbers

WHAT Churchill Downs is to horse racing and the Kentucky Derby, the Alpe d’Huez is to cycling and the Tour de France. East of Grenoble in the French Alps, its 21 switchbacks climb 3,687 feet in just under nine miles, pretty much deciding Tour winners since 1952. For this summer’s centennial race (starting June 29 in Corsica), cyclists will tackle the fabled French summit twice in one punishing day, July 18— giving savvy fans a sneak peek at the possible outcome three days later at Paris’s ChampsÉlysées evening fi nale. Race day brings out a crush of raucous fans (below) who line the incline along hairpins, each marked by plaques touting past winners of the stage. After the day’s mayhem, spectators gather at pubs up and down the mountain over cheesy…

2 minuti
seattle’s industrial revolution

EVEN AS downtown Seattle goes increasingly sleek, bohemia lives on in Georgetown. Wedged between railroad tracks and Boeing Field, where 737 jets get painted and tested for fl ight, this blue-collar manufacturing hub dates to 1851 (the city’s oldest residential zone). In recent years, its old breweries and metal foundries have been transformed by a tight-knit community of “eccentric artists and general oddballs,” says Martin Imbach of Georgetown Records. On June 8 the Georgetown Carnival fl aunts that independent streak with an annual street fair of power tool races, acrobatics, and wild games. 1 Hangar Cafe Try not to duck as landing planes roar over this brunch favorite at the edge of Boeing Field, in a cozy red house also selling local artwork. Pair the Hangar Crepe with an apple-ginger mimosa…