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National Geographic Traveler

National Geographic Traveler November 2012

National Geographic Traveler is the world's most widely read travel magazine. With captivating storytelling and beautiful you-are-there photography, National Geographic Traveler brings you the world’s best destinations. Experience the same high-quality articles and breathtaking photography contained in the print edition.

United States
National Geographic Society
Back issues only
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2 minuti
in living color

ON PAGE 48 A HANDFUL OF WRITERS ruminate on places that have changed their lives. We all have such places. Mine is India, and I’ve just returned from the latest of many visits there—this time to help launch Traveler’s 15th international edition. The visit brought back memories of my fi rst trip there, in 2001. I thought I had seen the world. India changed my mind. It is a world unto itself. I traveled from Delhi to Agra to Jaipur to the former British hill station of Shimla, in the Himalaya. The subcontinent taught me to embrace foreignness, and to question my Western biases. I was shocked by its duality: great wealth coexisting with the poverty of hardscrabble millions. I navigated train stations carpeted with slumbering Indians, roads terrifyingly clogged…

1 minuti
insider’s beijing

SOLE POWER Nei Lian Sheng Ziedian is a must-shop for traditional cotton slippers. The sole is made from hundreds of layers of rough cotton cloth, similar to a layer cake. Fuel a shopping spree with a breakfast of fried liver and steamed buns at a cheap, cheerful diner nearby. THE SHOPPING BLOCK East Drum Tower Avenue’s musical instrument shops serve local indie bands, and its vintage clothing shops would fi t in on London’s Brick Lane. Here you can also fi nd rare toys and manga action fi gures. BICYCLE KING To feel like a local, cycle along the moat of the Forbidden City [above] to its front gate. After sunset, you’ll see vivid refl ections of the corner tower surrounded by old bungalows, and you may glimpse the nightly lowering of the fl ag…

2 minuti
early czech out

OUR ROUNDUP OF PRAGUE HOTELS (August/September 2012, pictured here on iPad) tickled Karl Entenmann of Gig Harbor, Wash. “I had to laugh when reading about Prague’s new boutique hotels, which weren’t open when my wife and I arrived in 1991 with no hotel reservations,” he wrote. “We followed a sign for accommodations and chose a private apartment for rent near the city center. When we got there, we found food on the table, dishes in the sink, and an unmade bed—obviously the occupants had been kicked out for us. We slept on top of the blankets. When we returned the keys the next day, we were told that because of the city’s hotel shortage, many locals of ered their homes and stayed with a neighbor. Prague was indeed enchanting, but…

1 minuti
trips of a lifetime

“India’s Andaman and Nicobar Islands in the Bay of Bengal are a mini-paradise: birds and butterfl ies everywhere, clear water where you can swim with fi sh. On these pristine beaches, at 13, I fi rst learned about conservation.” ROXANNE BULSARA BASAVARAJ BANGALORE, INDIA “I grew up during World War II. Money was tight in my family, but our rare train trips from L.A. to San Diego taught me the joy of new experiences, which whetted my appetite for travel.” IRWIN JACOBS BOYNTON BEACH, FLA. “At age 11, my family and I drove from New Jersey to Yellowstone National Park. The endless days on the road seemed grueling. But we loved Yellowstone: the geysers, the pools, the bubbling pots, the big sky. The next year, we went to Yosemite [above]. I immediately fell in…

1 minuti
pillow talk in patagonia

FOR ALL THE BEAUTY OF THE PATAGONIAN landscape—russet pampas, granite spires, and sky blue glaciers abutting the Andes across the southern tip of South America—the wind-whipped region is famously inhospitable to travelers. Campsites have long been the main option in these parts, a challenging prospect as freezing rain and gale-force gusts threaten much of the year. Now less hardy Patagonian dreamers can rest easy at local operator Vertice Patagonia’s new series of af ordable eco-lodges linking the region’s popular attractions. In Torres del Paine National Park, which fully reopens this season after wildfi res ravaged the Chilean forest last year, ranch-style Refugio Grey is the latest lodging upgrade. Near 103-square-mile Grey Glacier, the refuge features warm beds (from $76), a kitchen serving Malbec wine and hearty meals like Argentine steak,…

1 minuti
imagine there’s no countries

EARLIER THIS YEAR, THE PRESIDENTS of fi ve southern African nations—Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Angola, and Zimbabwe—announced a game changer: the creation of Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA). Although not the fi rst, KAZA could be the largest cross-border protected area in the world. Stretching 169,885 square miles (nearly the size of Sweden), the conservation area brings 36 national parks and reserves together under one umbrella, including celebrated Victoria Falls and the Okavango Delta, creating a wildlife wonderland for animals and ecotourists. The hope is that one day a single tourist visa will allow for easy movement between the fi ve countries. Until then, tour operators such as African Travel can help you plan a KAZA safari. “Unlike past top-down conservation ef orts in Africa, KAZA will involve local communities from…