welcome
If you’ve never sat at a counter in a restaurant, make that your restaurant resolution this month. This is where you’ll understand what it takes to be a chef and become, as Tony Naylor says, one of ‘the gang’. From sushi perfection at Maru and a deeply intimate experience at Evelyn’s Table to sharing plates at Eleanore you can watch with fascination, appreciate the skill being shown and, most importantly, chat with the pro making dinner (p83). The comfort of eating familiar food keeps us going through the winter months. So this issue we’ve reinvented some of our favourites using the best of November’s produce (p18). Carbonara is lifted with silky leeks, cubes of celeriac soak up the flavours in a curry sauce, and Rosie Birkett has amped up cauli cheese…
