Scale Auto August 2019

Tim’s a modeler and a car guy. Like many of us he has been building since he was five. He enjoys telling stories of watching his father work on a variety of models on his workbench as Tim was growing up in Alaska. Yes, he’s a Northern Exposure kinda guy too! You’ll see Tim’s report on the NNL Milwaukee show in this issue’s gallery, and you’ll be seeing him at various NNL events over the next several years. I might bum along too on occasion. Plus you can still expect a wide variety of how-to and custom car builds in future issues. Tim is open to all types and makes of cars, so no predisposition to Fords, Chevys or Mopars. He simply likes cool wheels. Witness Mark Jones’ story this issue (Page…

Hooked since 1982 I felt like writing to you tonight as I flip through my latest issue of Scale Auto magazine. I haven’t built a plastic model kit for well over 20 years. However, I never stopped buying them, and I saved a lot of the built models from when I was a kid — and I’ve never stopped my subscription to Scale Auto. I’ve been subscribing for about 35 years now and have every issue from No. 19 to No. 251, all in pristine condition. I only wish I had bought No. 1 to No. 18 as back issues. Unfortunately, my kids never took to model building like I did back in the day. I guess it’s because I never had the internet or an iPhone. My favorite cover would be the first…

Reader Steven Reiter writes: I am in the process of building a set of Coca-Cola vehicles — as many as I can find. I saw Tom Valenta’s review in the April 2019 issue. Good review Tom. Is it possible to get the paint code that Tom mentioned in his review? I have tried a couple of colors that were close, but no go. Tom replies: The truck is an early 1970s model, so I got the proper color code for the year (Coca-Cola fleet red 1970-1988). The color on the can is PPG/Ditzler No. 71844. Cross-reference that with the DuPont color code (No. 7403), if you don’t have access to PPG paint. You’ll also want to paint this over a white base as the paint is slightly transparent and will change color depending…

1/25 Scale • Get On Up - 2 post hydraulic lift, No. AMTPP017M/12, $28.99. Garage Accessory Series. From Round 2. • Godzilla Planetary Defense Vehicle Willys MB Jeep, No. MPC882/12, $26.99. From Round 2. • 1953 Ford F-100 pickup, No. AMT1144M/12, $35.95. Includes die-cast vending machine and dolly. From Round 2. • Double Header - Two 27-ft. exterior post double vans, No. AMT1132/06, $41.95. Converter dolly, and slidng reardoors. From Round 2. • 1966 Batmobile (snap), No. POL965, $27.99. From Round 2. • 1977 Pontiac Firebird T/A, No. MPC916M/12, $27.99. From Round 2. 1/16 Scale • ’55 Chevrolet Bel Air Convertible, No. AMT1134/06, $47.95. From Round 2. Decal Sets 1/25 Scale • Diorama and gas signs, No. 17007, $12.50. From Gofer Racing Decals. • Fantastic Flames, No. MKA033, $10.99. From Round 2. Other Scale • Batman Classic TV series Batmobile, No. 85053, $12.95.…

READER TIPS • Here’s a quick tip for diorama builders. Keurig coffee makers use a charcoal water filter that should be changed out every three months. I cut one open to find grains of charcoal that could be used in for realistic diorama scenery details or to fill a pickup truck’s bed with miscellaneous rubble and dirt. You could even use it to weather a “beater.” This charcoal would add, no doubt, a different texture and color to a scene. -Bill Kenner, via email • I stumbled onto a way to make tires and slicks more realistic. While rebuilding a model, I chose to reuse slicks from an initial release AMT ’56 Ford. The tires had some paint on them, so I used a cloth dampened with acetone to remove the paint. It worked…

A-pillar blues SCOTT GREEN ASKS how he should add hinges to a 1970 Camaro if cutting the A-pillar on the door means removing support for the windshield. There are a couple of ways to do this: The easiest way — but less accurate — would be to lower the location of the door line beneath the A-pillar, which would support the pillar but result in an awkward dip along the top of the door, 1. A more accurate method is to follow the door line and carefully separate the A-pillar from the door, then cut out the rest of the door normally, 2. From that point, you need to scratchbuild a new A-pillar support on the inside, making sure it doesn’t interfere with the operation of the newly hinged doors. It would be wise…