T WAS HARDLY a typical state dinner. On June 11, 1939, George VI of England attended a picnic retreat at President Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s residence in Hyde Park, New York, where the king, for the first time in his life, tasted a hot dog. The treats arrived on silver platters. After polishing off his first dog, the king went back for a second, and Washington, D.C.’s Times-Herald celebrated this expression of Anglo-American solidarity: “Today we can bellow down the Coney Island boardwalk, our voices uplifted in pride, that the hot dog truly makes the whole world kin.”
The hot dog’s great success has always transcended class, wrapping the modern history of the United States into a portable bun. It all began with the five million German immigrants who arrived in…