THIS IS US. THIS IS OUR SPOT. WHY WOULDN’T WE WANT TO SURF IT! – Memories of Wreck Bay, Pipe, Shelley Point, Black Rock
“I first started surfing out there when I was eighteen or nineteen. We used to go out on these little foam boards, called Coolites. When we got smashed, the board would come up in bits and pieces – so that was the end of that. Before that we used to go down to Caves Beach. There’d be a mob of us, you know. We’d go down there and when the guys out there surfing lost their boards we’d take ‘em back out. That got us interested in trying it. They’d give us a loan of their boards for 15 minutes or half an hour to have a go. It took us a very long time before we even tried to go out there [to Pipe] on surfboards. “The first guy…