Louisiana Cookin' July/August 2019

SNOBALLS ARE A SUMMER OBSESSION of mine, just as they are for many people in New Orleans. I’ll wait in long lines at Hansen’s, Ro-Bear’s, and Pandora’s for some sweet, snowy goodness, but I’ve always wanted to bring an authentic, foolproof recipe to the pages of Louisiana Cookin’. For years, I’ve worked with the talented folks in our test kitchen to do so, but it’s never quite worked out. Between time-tested machinery and more than a little magic, snoballs are just something you’re going to have to travel for, I guess. So, while you won’t find a snoball recipe in this issue, I hope you’ll be delighted by a few other frosty treats. The bracing Watermelon-Lime Granita on page 28 is a simple summer pleasure, and the Sazerac Slush on page…

ONO’S HAWAIIAN GRILL SHREVEPORT One of Shreveport’s favorite food trucks opened its own brick-and-mortar restaurant in early spring. The menu at Ono’s Hawaiian Grill highlights the techniques and flavors of the Aloha State with authentic Hawaiian recipes and tropical cocktails. We recommend the Ahi Nachos and the Kalua Pig & Cabbage. facebook.com/onoshawaiitruck JEWEL OF THE SOUTH NEW ORLEANS In the mid-1800s, Italian bartender Joseph Santini opened Jewel of the South in New Orleans, where he invented the Brandy Crusta. This year, Chris Hannah (formerly of Arnaud’s French 75 Bar) and Nick Detrich (formerly of Cane & Table) opened a restaurant of the same name to honor the original Jewel’s legacy. Chef Philip Whitmarsh is in the kitchen whipping up dishes like Roasted Bone Marrow and a house gumbo while Chris leads the bar…

Autonomy, Covington The bakery and café located in historic downtown Covington celebrates its one-year anniversary July 25. Specializing in coffee, pastries, and sandwiches made with fresh bread from its bakery, Autonomy is open Wednesday through Monday for breakfast and lunch, Monday and Wednesday through Saturday for dinner, and Saturday and Sunday for brunch. autonomyrestaurant.com White Star Market, Baton Rouge The popular gourmet food hall recently launched its own monthly farmers’ market. Local vendors will be on-site with local produce and flowers, honey, handcrafted goods, and more during White Star Market’s weekend brunch hours. facebook.com/WhiteStarBR Chindian Flavors, Ruston Every other weekend, Kimlin Hall of Chindian Flavors is taking over the Grown and Grazed food truck. Originally from Trinidad, the Louisiana transplant offers a fresh and creative menu that blends East Indian, Chinese, and African flavors with…

Gianna, the newest restaurant from Chef Donald Link’s restaurant group, opened in April on Magazine Street in New Orleans. The kitchen is helmed by Rebecca Wilcomb, who won a 2017 James Beard Award while she was chef de cuisine at Herbsaint. At Gianna, Rebecca is executive chef and a partner in the restaurant, which is named for her grandmother, Giannina, who lives in the Veneto region of Italy. We caught up with Rebecca to learn more about the inspiration behind Gianna and what to expect from the menu. Tell us about Gianna’s concept. It’s a big, beautiful Italian restaurant on a corner, where people can come and eat big family-style meals or snack and have antipasti and aperitivi. It’s a place that brings people together and highlights rustic Italian cooking, but it’s…

LOUISIANA CRABS are at their best in the warm months of summer and fall when they start running in our marshes, bayous, and inlets. Crab claws are a favorite preparation in south Louisiana, and it only takes a bit of marinade to turn them into an extraordinary dish. These crab claws are marinated in mignonette sauce, a classic condiment made with minced shallots, cracked black pepper (we opted for white pepper in this version), and vinegar. Usually served with raw oysters, acidic mignonette complements the delicate flavor of the crabmeat and transforms this dish into an instant crowd-pleaser. MIGNONETTE-MARINATED CRAB CLAWS MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS Traditionally a companion for oysters on the half shell, mignonette makes an excellent marinade for Gulf crab claws. 1 cup Champagne vinegar¾ cup minced shallot2 tablespoons olive oil1…

Pick: Watermelon should feel heavy for its size and have a hollow sound when tapped. One indicator of a good watermelon is a pale yellow belly, which indicates it has ripened in the field. Store: Large cuts of watermelon can be wrapped with plastic wrap and kept in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Cubed watermelon should be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 6 months. Freeze cubed watermelon in a single layer on a baking sheet before adding to an airtight container.…