Louisiana Cookin' March/April 2020

LOUISIANA is a land of traditions. Every region, city, and family have their own set of beloved rituals they use to celebrate the passage of time, from Pierre C. Shadeaux forecasting the length of our spring in New Iberia to the countless pounds of Bayou State crawfish cooked up at Good Friday crawfish boils. Food plays a large part in those civic and family affairs, and that is why I look forward to this issue every year. Finding new ways to work with crawfish tails and our other spring delicacies is not only a lot of fun but also an important part of what we do here. Every family has their must-make dishes for parties large and small, but I hope that when you see this collection of seasonal recipes, you’ll…

SOFAB GUMBO GARDEN NEW ORLEANS The Southern Food & Beverage Museum recently unveiled its new outdoor exhibit and event space, the Gumbo Garden, which will be used for a variety of programs and both private and public events. The 3,200-square-foot area features a main dining pavilion, a whole-hog barbecue pit, crawfish boiler, outdoor deep-fryers, and more. With this outdoor cooking equipment, the Meat Sciences Department will expand its professional development classes, and the children’s cooking programs will now have a teaching vegetable garden. natfab.org BLDG 5 BATON ROUGE This marketplace, eatery, and patio opened last fall under the Perkins Road overpass. Husband-and-wife team Brumby and Misti Broussard transformed the building into a space where folks can pick up prepared meals or dine in. Much of the menu features dishes made for sharing, like…

THERE’S SOMETHING SPECIAL about Louisiana strawberries. Harvested in the late winter and early spring months, these seasonal beauties are sweet and juicy, making them an ideal snack or a tasty addition to both sweet and savory dishes, including this colorful salad. It’s easy to toss together for a side dish or as a main course alongside grilled chicken or fish. FRESH STRAWBERRY-PECAN SALAD WITH CANE SYRUP VINAIGRETTE MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS Sweet strawberries, pickled onions, toasted pecans, and tangy goat cheese pair well in this spring salad. ½ cup ¼-inch-sliced red onion½ cup water½ cup apple cider vinegar3 tablespoons sugar1⅛ teaspoons kosher salt, divided½ teaspoon mustard seeds8 cups baby mixed greens (about 5 ounces)2 cups halved fresh strawberries (quartered if large)½ cup chopped toasted pecans¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon, divided2…

ARTICHOKES WERE FIRST INTRODUCED to the Bayou State in the 19th century by French settlers, and ever since, Louisianans have been enamored with the green globes. One of the most popular way to eat artichokes in south Louisiana was brought here by Sicilians, who would stuff the leaves with a well-seasoned bread crumb mixture. This spring, we’re excited to try a few fresh recipes featuring tender artichokes, including a grain salad, fried artichoke hearts, and braised artichokes in a savory tomato sauce. BRAISED ARTICHOKES MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS These simple artichokes are cooked in a tasty tomato sauce. We suggest serving with crusty bread for soaking up all the sauce. 3 tablespoons unsalted butter2 large fresh artichokes, trimmed, quartered, and cleaned1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes1 cup dry white wine½ cup Castelvetrano olives, pitted and…

WHEN I WAS GROWING UP, Good Friday wasspent helping my mother and aunts stuff crawfish heads for our annual Easter Sunday crawfish bisque. The tradition continues, but this year, I’m adding turtle soup to our menu. Turtles have been consumed throughout history and were an important food source for sailors and pirates. Our beloved Bienville, founder of New Orleans, had the privilege of dining on soft-shell turtle soup. Even Pierre Clément de Laussat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s envoy for the Louisiana Purchase, became enamored with the reptile, writing that the Mississippi River provided soft-shell turtles that connoisseurs preferred and cooks prepared perfectly. “UNCLE PAUL TAUGHT US THAT TURTLE MEAT HAD DISTINCT COLORS AS WELL AS SEVEN DISTINCT FLAVORS.” Soupe à la tortue has long been a Creole favorite. In fact, Sharon Stallworth Nossiter writes in…

WHILE I WAS A STUDENT at Sophie Newcomb College in New Orleans, I worked as a tour guide for a few years at the Gallier House, built in 1861 by local architect James Gallier Jr. As a tour guide, I learned so much about the history of New Orleans, including the culinary traditions of this great city. The French impact on New Orleans cuisine is well noted, but the influence of southern Italian food on its cuisine is often overlooked. Sicilians began arriving in New Orleans in the 19th century. Their legacy is evident in several dishes, including marinara sauce, or what New Orleanians today refer to as “red gravy.” New Orleans-style red gravy is a little sweeter than traditional Italian marinara, and it can be found in restaurants all throughout…