Louisiana Cookin' July/August 2020

AS I SAT DOWN TO WRITE THIS, my first editor’s letter for Louisiana Cookin’ and our Eat Local issue, I began reflecting on what it means to eat local and just how important it is, now more than ever, for us to support our local restaurants, businesses, farmers, and fishermen. Louisiana was still under a stay-at-home order when we went to press on this issue, meaning restaurants throughout the state were limited to takeout or delivery, with many deciding to temporarily close. Food is an intrinsic part of our culture in Louisiana, and I don’t think it’s a stretch to say that restaurants are the lifeblood of our communities. Over the past few weeks, it has been inspiring to see the ways local restaurants and businesses have adapted to this new…

We normally use this space to let you know about local restaurant openings and events, but at the time we went to press on this issue, the state of Louisiana was under a stay-at-home order, and there were still some uncertainties about what the future would hold. As we were putting this issue together, we felt that this space would be best used to highlight people and organizations in the local food community doing their part to help others. The restaurant industry has been among those most affected by the coronavirus shutdown. Around Louisiana, the pandemic forced restaurants to shut their doors to the public and transition to doing takeout or delivery or shutter operations altogether for the time being. However, throughout this incredibly difficult time, many restaurants and others in…

SUMMER GRILLING SEASON IS UPON US, and we can’t wait to fire up our grills and cook up some delicious dinners. When it comes to grilling proteins, seafood is a natural choice for us here in Louisiana. Shrimp, fish, and even crabs hold up beautifully over an outdoor grill, which gives them a delightfully smoky flavor. When cooking with fish, we have an abundance of options from which to choose. In addition to familiar species like redfish, red snapper, and trout, swordfish is also readily available. Swordfish is an ideal choice for grilling because its sturdy flesh holds up well over an open flame or on a grill pan. Not only that, but its mild flavor works beautifully with the aroma of the smoke and the variety of fresh herbs…

ONE OF THE BEST summertime experiences is biting into a perfectly ripe, juicy peach. It’s the height of peach season in Louisiana, when our local farmers’ markets and grocery stores are brimming with these gems of summer. After savoring our first peach of the season, we’ll be looking forward to incorporating them into a variety of sweet and savory recipes, including a creamy slab pie, gooey cobbler bars, and a grilled salad with a zippy Basil Dressing. PEACH COBBLER BARS MAKES 12 This recipe transforms one of our favorite desserts into portable treats. 2½ cups all-purpose flour1½ cups sugar, divided½ cup old-fashioned oats2 teaspoons lemon zest1 teaspoon baking powder¼ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt, divided1 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces1 large egg, lightly beaten3 tablespoons cornstarch1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice½…

EVERY SUNDAY AFTER MASS at St. James Catholic Church, Daddy would pile all eight of us in his Chevrolet coupe and we’d make our way down River Road to Vacherie Lane. Waiting for us with open arms were Mamere and Papere Folse. Only grandparents could be that excited to see eight kids under 13 years old arriving for the day. Papere was a raconteur extraordinaire and always had a tall tale that kept us spellbound while Mamere mesmerized us with a huge crock bowl filled with sweet farre dressing in the center of the kitchen table. The Wonder Bread was only inches away for us to make sweet farre dressing sandwiches. While I loved sweet farre, it was her Lac Des Allemands crab gumbo simmering on the back of the stove…

SUMMER SIZZLES in south Louisiana, and it’s also very cool. There are a few gastronomic icons enjoyed year-round that are especially nice when the temperature soars, and their origin stories are equally—dare we say it?—cool. Summer without lemon icebox pie, iced tea, or snoballs would be heart-melting. Ice and New Orleans are inseparable as a summer necessity. Ice itself is ancient, though the icebox wasn’t around in earnest until the 1830s. Ice storage and ice wagons were here around 1865, and there’s this fun fact: in 1868, Louisiana Ice Works on Tchoupitoulas Street was the world’s first commercial ice plant. Fascinatingly, there are a few interesting chilly Louisiana food and drink traditions and a couple “firsts.” With the advent of the icebox came icebox pies. A Southern summer staple, icebox pies solved…