Louisiana Cookin' September/October 2021

EVERY YEAR SINCE 2002, Louisiana Cookin’ has selected a handful of talented chefs from around the state as Chefs to Watch. Year after year, we look for up-and-coming chefs who respect local culinary traditions while adding their personal touch and pushing the boundaries of Louisiana cuisine. In my time working with this magazine, I have been fortunate to have met some truly amazing chefs from all corners of the state who are making their mark on Louisiana’s cuisine. This year, we are proud to continue this tradition as we introduce our 20th class of Chefs to Watch. The 2021 Chefs to Watch represent a wide swath of cuisines and cooking styles—chefs like Anthony Goldsmith, who is trying to preserve Cajun cuisine for the next generation; Serigne Mbaye, who is highlighting the…

COMMONS CLUB NEW ORLEANS Set to open Labor Day weekend, Virgin Hotels New Orleans is the latest addition to the Warehouse District. The brand-new hotel from Sir Richard Branson’s hotel brand will feature 238 guest rooms, a rooftop pool and lounge, and food and beverage outlets, including its flagship restaurant, bar, and lounge called Commons Club. The kitchen at Commons Club will be led by former Chef to Watch Alex Harrell, whose menu will focus on “contemporary American cuisine with a Southern sensibility.” commonsclub.com/new-orleans MAMA RETA’S LAKE CHARLES When Hurricane Laura tore through Lake Charles last August and destroyed “Mama Reta” Nell Durgan’s home and restaurant, she temporarily moved her business to Lafayette to “keep doing what she loves to do.” When her lease is up on that location in September, Reta will…

PANZANELLA is a Tuscan bread salad that’s popular in Italy, and it’s easy to see why. It’s typically made with stale bread, tomatoes, and onions tossed with olive oil and red wine vinegar. The stale bread soaks up all the flavorful juices and transforms into a simple yet delightful dish. For a fall version of this salad, we skipped the tomatoes and added in roasted butternut squash with cumin, ginger, and nutmeg. Sprinkled with fresh herbs and crunchy pistachios, it’s a filling yet light meal that is sure to become a fast favorite. ROASTED SQUASH PANZANELLA SALAD MAKES 8 SERVINGS Roasted butternut squash and cubed French bread get tossed with a sweet yet zesty vinaigrette in this panzanella salad. 4 cups 1-inch-cubed French bread⅓ cup plus 5 tablespoons olive oil, divided1 medium butternut squash,…

MIRLITON, CHAYOTE, CHRISTOPHENE, VEGETABLE PEAR: whatever you call it, this squash is a fall staple in New Orleans. Locally, the vegetable is known as mirliton, with most New Orleanians dropping the “r” and pronouncing it “mel-uh-tawn.” Mirlitons have long been grown on backyard fences and trellises across the city, typically ripening in October, just in time for fall cooking and the upcoming holiday season. With tender, watery flesh and a taste reminiscent of apple or cucumber, the mirliton is a versatile ingredient that works well with other foods. Around New Orleans, it’s most commonly used in recipes for stuffed mirlitons or mirliton dressing, often made with seafood. This fall, we’re sharing our own take on the stuffed mirliton as well as recipes for a creamy gratin and a crunchy slaw. CHOOSING…

MUCH IS SAID about our Founding Fathers, but I cannot help but wonder if we give similar esteem to our founding foodies—our hunters, fishermen, and farmers. While I greatly admire our Founding Fathers, as a chef, I also cherish those who traverse the wilderness, sweep the seas, and till the earth. Hunting and thoughts of hunting have dominated men’s lives throughout their existence. Capturing game meant not only food but also clothing, tools, and the creation of art in the form of carved bones and painted skins. With the discovery of fire, humanity and civilization were revolutionized. Hunting and fire dramatically increased food choices and nutrition, and the art of cooking began. The communal evening fire brought people together to eat, socialize, talk, and plan. Storytelling around the fire was certainly…

WHEN A RESTAURANT OPENS, it is designed to reflect the tastes of that moment. The menu, ambience, and service styles are all tailored to suit the customers’ expectations. A special few eateries not only get to serve guests for a few years but go on to thrive for generations. In New Orleans’ French Quarter, these are called the “grande dames.” The youngest of those storied restaurants, Brennan’s, turns 75 this year, and it has a lot more to offer than its most famous dish, Bananas Foster. Owen Edward Brennan launched the restaurant on Bourbon Street in 1946 but soon relocated it to its current space on Royal Street: a 1795 building, constructed by artist Edgar Degas’ great-grandfather. To suit the style of the times, Brennan’s was built to emphasize its tropical…