Louisiana Cookin' March/April 2021

LAST SEPTEMBER, I had the pleasure of serving as a judge for the Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off, which aired virtually on Facebook. Ten chefs from across Louisiana competed in LASCO@Home, as it was called, for the title of King or Queen of Louisiana Seafood. The virtual format gave the competitors and the Louisiana Seafood Promotion & Marketing Board a chance to inspire viewers to make dishes at home with fresh Louisiana seafood. Additionally, the cookoff inspires people to support Louisiana’s seafood industry, which plays such a crucial part in our cuisine. Find out more about the 2020 event on page 17. This issue is an homage to Louisiana seafood and the star of springtime in the Bayou State: crawfish. Within these pages, you’ll find more than a dozen new and classic seafood…

GOV’T TACO BATON ROUGE Jay Ducote opened the first brick-and-mortar location of his government-themed taco shop on Election Day this past November. At its new home on Government Street, the menu features tacos such as Clucks & Balances (smoked chicken thigh, pimiento mac and cheese, Nashville hot chicken skins, and white barbecue sauce) and the Magna Carrot (cane-glazed carrots, black bean purée, goat cheese, chimichurri, and pepitas). The bar menu features margaritas, palomas, cocktails, wine, and beer. govttaco.com LILAH’S BROADMOOR BUNNERY SHREVEPORT Sopan “T.K.” and Lisa Tike of Lilah’s Bakery opened a cinnamon bun bar and bakery in December. The new bakery will operate year-round as a cinnamon bun bar and a pickup location for Lilah’s king cakes. In addition to Lilah’s original cinnamon buns, Lilah’s Broadmoor Bunnery serves specialty and seasonal buns,…

THERE’S A LOT TO LOVE about Louisiana Gulf shrimp. Their delicious flavor works well in all sorts of dishes, from heavy gumbos and jambalayas to lighter fare like soups and salads. Additionally, shrimp are low in calories and fat yet rich in protein and nutrients like vitamin B12 and phosphorus, making them a nutritious add-in to this flavorful salad. With seared shrimp and a variety of vegetable mix-ins, it feels light but is still filling as an entrée. A simple vinaigrette made with freshly squeezed lemon juice adds a bright, acidic flavor while mint leaves give this salad a fragrant burst of coolness. SHRIMP SALAD WITH LEMON VINAIGRETTE MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS This green salad is packed with lightly seasoned shrimp and plenty of veggies, including baby artichoke hearts and roasted red…

ASPARAGUS IS AVAILABLE throughout the year, but spring is when the flavor of this delicious vegetable truly shines. In Louisiana, asparagus is harvested from mid-March until early May, and the tender, crisp stalks are plentiful at local farmers’ markets and grocery stores. Fresh asparagus brings a bright flavor to any recipe, no matter how you cook it. The versatile vegetable can be enjoyed any number of ways, but we’ve come up with a few dishes we think you’ll love, including a creamy risotto, a hearty panzanella salad, and roasted spears over whipped goat cheese. SHRIMP AND ASPARAGUS RISOTTO MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS A drizzle of tarragon-infused oil brightens up this Shrimp and Asparagus Risotto. 6 cups water1 pound large fresh asparagus, trimmed1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided¼ cup unsalted butter1 pound…

I AM OFTEN ASKED about the differences among Louisiana’s top three crawfish dishes—crawfish stew, crawfish étouffée, and crawfish bisque. While all are delicious, the differences among them are the roux, vegetable seasonings, and stock. Originally, crawfish stew was made with pork fat (lard), which is heated to the smoke point (about 375°). That’s when an equal amount of flour is added. When the roux smokes again, diced onions are added, immediately dropping the roux temperature to prevent burning. The dark brown roux of the Cajuns has been achieved. As the onions cook, a sweetness is released, which flavors the roux. Seasonally, green onions or shallots might be substituted. Crawfish tail meat, including the fat, is added, along with water, and cooked until a stew-like consistency is achieved. As the stew simmers,…

CHEF MELISSA ARAUJO may not have realized that she’d be opening a modern Honduran eatery in the Bywater when she started cooking in New Orleans, but she feels it was her destiny. After an extended internship in Italy, Melissa honed her skills at notable Crescent City restaurants—including Mondo, Restaurant R’evolution, and Doris Metropolitan—and even opened a successful catering company but felt something missing. Out of a yearning to return to the kitchen and reconnect with her childhood summers in Honduras, Melissa opened Alma as a pop-up at the former Roux Carre culinary hub in Central City New Orleans. People responded to her soulful and authentic interpretations of Honduran classics, like baliadas (a street taco often filled with egg, refried beans, crema, queso, and avocado), but the timing wasn’t right to open…