Louisiana Cookin' July/August 2022

HIGH SUMMER is a volatile time in the Bayou State. The seasonal joys of oversize crabs, spicy shrimp boils, and refreshing sno-balls are tempered by the heat and specter of intense weather. It’s part of the joie de vivre, I suppose, of living in Louisiana. So, I’ve enjoyed making early morning farmers’ market runs when I can and stocking up on juicy tomatoes, freshly baked breads, and the cornucopia of produce. In this issue, you’ll find a selection of great recipes and stories to help you make the most of that bounty. From Chef John Folse’s recollections of childhood days angling for catfish in the Mississippi River (page 39) to Chef Mason Hereford’s mind-bending new cookbook, Turkey and the Wolf: Flavor Trippin’ in New Orleans (page 89), there’s something for just…

BIG BAD BITES GONZALES We all recognize the fast-food signs that dot highway exits, but at the I-10 exit in Gonzales, there’s a new quick food stop that doesn’t sacrifice fresh ingredients for time. Big Bad Bites is the latest concept of Cory and Kaitlin Hebert, owners of the food truck Rouge-A-Roux’s. Serving fresh, locally sourced ingredients, the menu features items like a crab cake sandwich and cheese-stuffed boudin balls all made in-house and ready to be served at the window or indoors among the cartoon-muraled walls. bigbadbites.com SPOKE & HUB BATON ROUGE The wheels of Government Street have been turning for quite some time with restaurants popping up all along the strip. Spoke & Hub is Mid-City’s newest spot, with a cycling theme aimed to attract neighborhood families and bike enthusiasts. With…

MARINATED CRAB CLAWS are one of the ultimate Louisiana summer starters. They’re easy to prepare, can be set up ahead of time, and, perhaps best of all, have a sense of simple luxury to them. This version is easy and adds a delightfully sweet and spicy flavor profile to the tender morsels. CHILE-LIME CRAB CLAWS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS Crab claws can shred easily, so be sure to stir the mixture together as gently as you can. 3 tablespoons cane vinegar*3 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce2 tablespoons fish sauce2 teaspoons lime zest2 tablespoons fresh lime juice1 tablespoon honey2 pounds steamed crab claws, cleaned and rinsed½ cup chopped green onion¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro2 Thai bird chile peppers, halved lengthwise and seeded1 (½-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger, thinly sliced1 tablespoon minced garlic½ cup extra-virgin olive…

TOMATOES AND FRESH HERBS are a summertime medley of flavors we all look forward to in the warmer months. Regarded as one of the South’s favorite garden vegetables, tomatoes add sweetness and acidity to a dish, enhancing its flavors. And because herbs are so easy to grow at home, they make a great addition to any recipe, giving it vibrance and fragrance. In Louisiana cuisine, we see this classic combo in dishes like étouffée and in the backbone of a red gravy, but when the days get longer and the heat catches up with us, we look for lighter and brighter fares to get us through. From a Tomato and Garden Pesto Tart to a Creole Tomato Bread Pudding, we’ve assembled a collection of dishes that showcase the season’s brightest flavors. CHOOSING…

HERE IN THE BAYOU STATE, we do desserts and we do them well. Doberge cake is just one of the sweet treats we’re famous for these days, but it may also be one of the most beloved. In 1933, New Orleans pastry chef Beulah Levy Ledner invented the original recipe, and its iconic layers have captivated dessert lovers ever since. She based her cake on the Hungarian Dobos torte (a sponge cake with nine thin layers) but chose to add four more layers, bringing the total to a whopping 13. Her creation also swapped the buttercream filling with either chocolate or vanilla custard. The titan was then finally topped with buttercream and a thin layer of fondant. Joe Gambino eventually bought the recipe from her, and today, it is one of the…

NEXT TO CHRISTMAS MORNING, summer is the sweetest time in a boy’s life. Growing up on River Road in St. James, the possibilities were endless. With the June Rise, the bar pits were overfilled with water, trapping fish of all sizes in these 6- to 8-foot-deep ponds*. My five brothers and I could hardly wait to get down to business. As soon as we topped the levee, we stripped to our Fruit of the Looms, dove into the cool Mississippi River water, and swam to the nearest willow trees. That’s when things got interesting! Because Bo’boy was the oldest, he held pride of place in shimmying up the willow tree with a spool of nylon twine to find the sturdiest branch, preferably 2 inches thick. He securely tied a wad of…