Louisiana Cookin' March/April 2023

“Whose idea was it to put boudin in that gumbo?” a Cajun chef asked me with some degree of incredulity. I braced myself, looked him in the eye, and explained that it was my idea to put boudin in a shrimp gumbo. (You can see it for yourself on page 52.) Rice is obviously a common addition to gumbo, and boudin’s heady flavors seemed like an interesting foil to the delicate shrimp. Thankfully, I was not accused of heresy, and we had a conversation about how recipes are developed at Louisiana Cookin’. Concept development for recipes and stories for the magazine is a collaborative process that often begins a year out. The editorial team works with recipe developers in our test kitchen to create recipes that are either faithful renditions of…

PARISH LINE BISTRO METAIRIE Last autumn, Metairie became home to a fresh new alfresco dining experience called Parish Line Bistro. The transformed Metairie Road restaurant is the former home of longstanding spot Metry Café that closed during the COVID-19 pandemic. The new two-story digs, featuring a second-floor deck for dining, makes a big impression, especially when accompanied by dishes from seasoned local chef Chris Wilson. Kick back with a spread of shareables like Cajun Caviar Fries or dive into the fresh fish or gourmet burger entrées. parishlinebistro.com THE PINK AGAVE PONCHATOULA AND COVINGTON Recently, Covington got a taste of what Ponchatoula has been raving about at this vibrant place where tasty Tex-Mex, picture-worthy tequila cocktails, and good vibes collide. Tacos are the Pink Agave’s specialty—and shouldn’t be missed—but their menu also boasts daily…

BRUNCH IS OFTEN A DECADENT MEAL, but with a few powerhouse ingredients, you can also make it quite healthful. This beautiful protein-packed quiche substitutes lower-carb sweet potatoes for the expected dough crust and incorporates kale for a boost of calcium, vitamin A, and iron. Pairing this lovely dish with a light salad and fresh juice will give you a meal to remember. SWEET POTATO-CRUSTED QUICHE MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS After trying this sweet potato crust, you may not go back to pie dough. 4 slices thick-cut bacon, thinly sliced4 cups chopped stemmed curly kale (about 1 bunch)1½ pounds 1-inch cubed peeled sweet potatoes (about 5 cups)3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided12 large eggs1 cup whole-milk Greek yogurt1 cup shredded smoked Gruyère cheese½ cup thinly sliced green onion 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. In a 10-inch cast-iron…

OF THE VIBRANT COLORS TO pop up during the Louisiana spring, red and golden beets are some of the most radiant. Despite their appearance and health benefits, they don’t get as much love as they should. These recipes will excite beet lovers, and hopefully, sway beet skeptics. Both the striking root and the leafy greens of the beet are edible, and quite good for you. They’re full of fiber, folate, manganese, potassium, iron, and vitamin C. A few of the varieties the LSU AgCenter recommends for the Bayou State include amusing names including Bull’s Blood, Chioggia (also known as candy cane) and Golden Detroit. The sweet, earthy flavor of beets, and their textural versatility—from crunchy when raw to delicate when steamed or roasted—make them a useful part of a cook’s pantry. Red…

EACH WINTER, WHEN TEMPERATURES DROPPED and wild oysters were ready to be harvested, Jason Pitre’s late grandfather Antoine “Whitney” Dardar would venture into oyster-rich ponds and canals off the coast of Lafourche Parish in a pirogue and rake up the bivalves, breaking them apart by hand. It was how he’d done it for decades and how he’d seen his own father do it before him. “He was a traditionalist,” says Jason, proprietor of Bayou Rosa Oyster Farm in Leeville. But as his grandfather got older and environmental concerns emerged, traditionalism wasn’t cutting it. The ponds and canals where he’d fished for oysters were now lakes and 5-to-10-foot bodies of water, and the BP oil spill was a final straw. “The oysters were just not there anymore, and there was the…

SPRING MORNINGS ON RIVER ROAD could be a little chilly, but that did not stop the chatter of six brothers tramping down the gravel road to St. James School. Across the pastures, we could see newborn calves wobbling on unsteady legs. Birds whistled and chirped as they migrated north along the Mississippi Flyway. The clover was green, and if you caught the wind right, you’d smell a light scent of mandarin blossoms on the breeze. School days were long and laborious. But when the 3 o’clock dismissal bell rang, we were the first ones out the door! By the time we arrived at the house, we had shed our socks and shoes, allowing blades of spring grass to tickle our toes. We bounded across the railroad track to Papere’s house, where…