Louisiana Cookin' November/December 2022

IT WOULDN’T BE THE HOLIDAY season in Louisiana without the scent of cooking turkeys. In this issue, we feature not one but two decadent birds, and they both represent styles and trends that have become mainstays in the Bayou State. Chef John Folse offers up a classic wild bird that’s packed with a rich crawfish stuffing (page 38) and Thibodaux’s Jason Derouen, better known as The Cajun Ninja, shows off his deep-fried version (page 81). They couldn’t be more different, but they highlight the range of flavors and textures that folks can look forward to on Thanksgiving. The iconic Louisiana bird missing from this issue is the turducken. Over the years, we’ve considered providing a turducken recipe, but each time, we come to the same conclusion: if you want a turducken,…

FLOUR MOON BAGELS NEW ORLEANS Louisiana Cookin’ 2019 Chef to Watch and pastry maven Breanne Kostyk opened Flour Moon Bagels along the gorgeous Lafitte Greenway (a walkable route that connects the French Quarter to the New Orleans Museum of Art). Along with an assortment of bagels (including bialys and massive Jerusalem bagels on Fridays and Saturdays), schmeers, and toppings, Breanne and partner Jeff Hinson offer a full menu of sandwiches, tartines, sweets, and beverages (including coffee from neighboring HEY Café and a few eye-opener cocktails). A couple of the menu highlights include the Bluebird (with smoked turkey, jalapeño cream cheese, and blueberry jam) and the Italian (seemingly inspired by the classic New Orleans muffuletta). flourmoonbagels.com SHAKEBACKS LAFAYETTE After seeing an opening in the Lafayette market for late-night dining, Terrence Jeffrey and Blake Fontenot…

BALANCE IS IMPORTANT, and when cookies, cakes, and treats of all stripes are waiting around each corner, it’s crucial to have some savory goodies to even out the mix. This beautiful collaboration between shrimp, olives, and crumbly Manchego cheese is a lovely starter for any holiday gathering (not to mention perfect for snacking at any old time). MARINATED SHRIMP AND OLIVES MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS Here, we cooked the shrimp with seafood boil and lemon, but you can change the flavor profile to your liking. 6 cups water1 lemon, halved1 tablespoon kosher salt1 tablespoon seafood boil liquid concentrate1 pound peeled and deveined large fresh shrimp6 ounces drained pitted green olives, halved1 cup sliced kalamata olives1 cup Italian olive salad mix*½ cup crumbled Manchego cheese¼ teaspoon lemon zest strips3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice2 cloves…

LET’S GET THIS OUT OF THE WAY first: like the tomato, fall and winter squash are classified as fruit. The varieties of these squash that grow well in Louisiana include acorn, butternut, delicata, and Hubbard, and they will all help you get into the cool weather spirit. With a finer texture than many pumpkins, these hearty squash are a versatile addition to your seasonal menus since they perform as well roasted as they do boiled and pair with savory flavors as well as they do with desserts. In addition to their sweet taste, many winter squash are full of vitamins A and C, antioxidants, fiber, and potassium. Whether you roast, smash, or stuff them with delightful Cajun goodies, you’re sure to enjoy this collection of early winter comfort foods. ANDOUILLE-STUFFED ACORN SQUASH MAKES…

I MOVED TO SOUTHWEST LOUISIANA FROM New Orleans in 1983 after marrying the love of my life, Buzzy. Immediately, my father instructed me to get busy and learn to make a gumbo. Southwest Louisiana Cajun gumbo is very different from New Orleans Creole gumbo. So, I got busy. Christmas Day is extremely busy at the Leithead house, and early on, I came to the realization that the traditional turkey and dressing Christmas dinner was virtually impossible for our growing family. We actually had a Christmas brunch mid-morning. As the children got older, their friends would come visit in the afternoon on Christmas Day. The boys’ friends, in particular, were hungry, and dinner was nonexistent! That’s when the Christmas Day gumbo began. Lots of our local hunters were more than happy to…

GOTTA LOVE THAT WILD TURKEY! I’m talking about the bird, not the beverage. Interestingly enough, the ancient Mayan people created a drink called “balché” for their wild turkeys. Made of fermented honey and tree bark, the drink was ceremonially given to turkeys to cheer them before being dispatched. While working on my After the Hunt cookbook several years ago, I included a chapter of recipes for Louisiana’s land game birds. Of the many options we can hunt, Louisiana’s wild turkey is probably the best known and certainly the largest. Shortly after the season begins in April, you’ll find sportsman magazines and newspapers filled with hunters showing off their tom turkeys, tails fanned, beards and spurs proudly displayed. Bag limits are small: one gobbler per day, two per season. I was lucky enough…