Louisiana Cookin' September - October 2017

ONE MY FAVORITE TRUISMS ABOUT LOUISIANANS is that we live to eat, and that while we’re eating one meal, we’re thinking about the next. In my time here, that’s been my experience. Whether in New Orleans, Breaux Bridge, Lake Charles, or Shreveport, folks here spend a lot of time pondering, shopping for, preparing, and gleefully dining on some of the best food in the world. Each year, Louisiana Cookin’ recognizes six chefs who have dedicated their lives to serving up meals that sustain, captivate, and inspire us. The 16th class of Chefs to Watch (page 31) is no different: they come from varying backgrounds, represent different corners of the state, and integrate Cajun and Creole techniques into their cuisines in unique ways. When selecting these chefs, we consider more than their culinary…

YOU COULD SAY SUMMER IS OVER in Louisiana, but as we all know, summer lasts a very long time in our state. So, if you do not feel like heating up the kitchen, this is a great time to do what I do: let somebody else cook! I am still eating my way across the state so I can report back to you and help you find the best of the best. Let’s talk food! THE DOORS ARE OPEN For anyone in Baton Rouge wondering what that delightful aroma is just behind the Louisiana Culinary Institute, it happens to be BRQ, a recently opened barbecue restaurant where 2010 Chef to Watch Justin Ferguson slow smokes meats for up to 16 hours. That results in a cut-it-with-a-fork tender brisket, or a perfectly textured pulled…

MY TAILGATE PARTIES at Louisiana State University always feature a bubbling cast-iron cauldron of something special. Every Louisiana flavor from jambalaya and seafood gumbo to red beans and crawfish étouffée has graced our 15-gallon pot, but sometimes we switch it up a bit. One of my favorite game-day traditions on campus is that of “cooking our opponent’s mascot.” Cochon de lait tops the menu when we face the University of Arkansas Razorbacks, and we feast on fowl when the University of South Carolina Gamecocks come to town. When LSU plays the University of Florida, gator is the dish of the day. There are lots of ways to cook alligator. Some people roast it whole on a rotisserie spit, mostly for the spectacle of having a gator spinning above open flames. Other folks…

AS THE WHITE SHRIMP SEASON hits its stride in early autumn, we’re always looking for different dishes that highlight the crustacean’s sweet flavor and delicate texture. This lightened-up soup takes some of the season’s best flavors and melds them with a hearty dose of Louisiana shrimp. You’ll want to eat this over and over again as the weather cools off. AUTUMN SHRIMP SOUP MAKES ABOUT 6 SERVINGS 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 pound peeled and deveined large fresh shrimp ½ cup diced celery ½ cup diced carrot 1 cup diced sweet yellow onion 1½ cups fresh yellow corn kernels (from about 2 ears corn) 2 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup dry white wine 1 quart seafood stock 1½ cups diced russet potatoes, blanched 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper ¼…

WHEN WE THINK OF SUGARCANE, many images come to mind: fields of stalks swaying in the wind, cane syrup, and even the mythical rougarou. Throughout the fall in South Louisiana, we sometimes see freshly cut sugarcane stalks making an appearance at local farmers’ markets. The long staves can look intimidating, but with a sharp knife and some steady hands, they can be broken down into segments fairly quickly. Many Louisianans have fond memories of chewing on sugarcane stalks, but here we broke them down a bit further, making flavorful skewers. In addition to providing a novel pick to hold marinated pork and vegetables, the sugarcane skewers provide a sweet, smoky flavor all their own. Once you’ve tried this recipe, the skewers would also be perfect for shrimp, rich pork belly, chicken, or…

FORKS, STRANGERS TO THE TABLE FOR MUCH OF HUMAN HISTORY, BECAME UBIQUITOUS AFTER THE 18TH CENTURY. THERE WERE TINES ON HANDLES FOR EVERY KIND OF FOOD. THESE SILVER SARDINE AND ANCHOVY FORKS ARE 19TH CENTURY. THE ESSENTIAL CULINARY TOOLS have ancient lineages and mostly evolved as pragmatic responses to specific needs. There is one, however, which came to the table quite late and, unlike its siblings, was not strictly necessary. In truth, it was probably as much fashion as facility, vanity rather than utility. To cut meat, quite obviously, a sharp blade and a way to grasp it was needed. To take soup, a small scoop ergonomically attached to a handle was required, but to move morsels to the mouth, well, that was quite another thing. If something eatable could not be…