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Cook's IllustratedCook's Illustrated

Cook's Illustrated

May/June 2019

At Cook's Illustrated, our test cooks are dedicated to testing and retesting recipes 20, 30, sometimes 50 times until we come up with a recipe that will come out right the first time -- and every time -- you make it. And each issue of Cook's Illustrated is 100% ADVERTISING FREE, so you get unbiased and objective information on every page. As we like to say at Cook's Illustrated, "We make the mistakes so you don't have to."

País:
United States
Idioma:
English
Editor:
Boston Common Press, LP
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access_time2 min.
special sauce

I took the position because I wanted to learn how to cook seafood. I did learn how to slowly poach halibut so that when the exterior hinted at flaking, the interior was a silky medium-rare. I did learn how to char huge, freshly shucked sea scallops by rolling them along their equators over a white-hot cast-iron cooktop like sticky summer tires on hot asphalt. And I did learn how to cut any whole fish, regardless of species or shape, into pristine fillets.But my greatest takeaway from my brief tenure at Le Bernardin had little to do with seafood at all: It was learning the true value of a sauce. The saucier, the highest-ranking cook at the restaurant, would craft a dozen sauces daily to dress every piece of fish that…

access_time3 min.
quick tips

Juice Pomegranate Seeds with a RicerTo juice a small amount of pomegranate seeds, Gene Simmonds of New York, N.Y., found that a ricer does the trick. Just load the seeds into the hopper of the ricer and gently press.Makeshift Doughnut CutterRobin Conley of Fort Collins, Colo., wanted to make homemade doughnuts but didn’t have a doughnut cutter. To improvise, she used a large round biscuit cutter and then used an apple corer to cut out the holes.A New Way to Pack a CoolerNancy Shannon of Rockford, Ill., discovered that small stackable shelves typically used to add extra tiers to cabinets can also work in coolers. They’re great for raising foods such as cheese, fruits, or sandwiches to prevent them from getting wet in melting ice; they can also be used…

access_time8 min.
tuscan grilled pork ribs

You probably know ribs as a low-and-slow affair featuring fall-off-the-bone meat that’s been steeped in smoke and coated with a flavorful rub or sauce. Tuscan grilled pork spareribs, known as rosticciana (“RO-stee-chee-AH-na”), are not those ribs.Their preparation falls in line with the less-is-more ethos of Tuscan cuisine, where foods are seasoned sparingly to allow their natural flavors to shine. In this case, it’s all about the pork, so the seasonings are restricted to salt, pepper, and maybe a hint of garlic or rosemary. Then the ribs are grilled quickly—typically for only 15 to 30 minutes—over a hot fire until the meat is browned and crisp but still succulent and clinging to the bone with satisfying chew. Eating them with your hands is a truly primal experience.That said, I couldn’t wrap…

access_time9 min.
indian butter chicken

Murgh makhani, also known by its English name, “butter chicken,” is a wildly popular dish that has reached royal status in northern Indian cuisine. But according to most sources, the dish was originally intended to solve the rather pedestrian problem of preventing leftover meat from tandoor-roasted chickens from drying out. The solution turned out to be magnificent: The charred meat was bathed in a lush tomato-based gravy that was enriched with butter (and often cream) and scented with ginger, garlic, and spices such as garam masala, coriander, and cumin. Butter chicken has since helped spawn a major restaurant franchise and become one of the most well-known Indian dishes in the world.It’s also a popular dish to make at home, as the sauce is a snap to prepare: Soften some onion,…

access_time7 min.
hand-rolled ravioli

When I have the time, I relish the opportunity to slow down, roll up my sleeves, and turn to projects such as making ravioli the traditional way, without a pasta machine. There is something magical about mixing up a supple dough and then using only a rolling pin and a knife to create a stuffed pasta.A few years ago, we designed a pasta recipe to be rolled without a machine. It relies heavily on egg yolks and oil to provide enough fat to limit gluten development so the dough can be rolled without springing back. Cut into strands, boiled, and tossed with a creamy tomato sauce, the pasta is a real winner.To see how the dough would work as the wrapper for ravioli, I whipped up a batch in the…

access_time8 min.
new england cod and potato cakes

The frugality of New Englanders is evident in a number of tried-and-true regional dishes. One of my favorite examples is fish and potato cakes: In days gone by, leftover cooked fish scraps didn’t go to waste. Instead, the fish (usually cod, either fresh or salted) was flaked and folded into potatoes that had been mashed with milk and butter; the mixture was seasoned with aromatics and herbs (and sometimes bound with an egg) before being shaped into cakes. The cakes were then coated in bread crumbs and pan-fried to develop crispy, golden exteriors that encased creamy interiors.Today, the dish is a regional classic, generally made with fresh fish and served with lemon wedges and tartar sauce in roadside diners from Rhode Island all the way to the Maritimes.Modern cod and…

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