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Cook's Illustrated

Cook's Illustrated

November/December 2020

At Cook's Illustrated, our test cooks are dedicated to testing and retesting recipes 20, 30, sometimes 50 times until we come up with a recipe that will come out right the first time -- and every time -- you make it. And each issue of Cook's Illustrated is 100% ADVERTISING FREE, so you get unbiased and objective information on every page. As we like to say at Cook's Illustrated, "We make the mistakes so you don't have to."

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País:
United States
Idioma:
English
Editor:
Boston Common Press, LP
Periodicidad:
Bimonthly
SUSCRIBIRSE
USD 19.99
6 Números

en este número

3 min.
cook your best

I’m sitting at the big table in the kitchen of my childhood home. There’s a cloth draped over the surface, but you’d be hard-pressed to tell—nearly every inch is home to a platter, plate, cruet, boat, or glass filled with something delicious. The air is all butter, onions, and roasted meat, but I can’t smell any of it, having spent the whole morning in that kitchen surrounded by those aromas. When I look around the table I see the faces I know the best. I’m with my family. It’s Thanksgiving. Or maybe it’s Christmas. As I write this, on a bright, hot day in early August, I know that my holiday traditions might very well remain a daydream this year. But I’m not letting it get me down. If the year…

5 min.
quick tips

Whipping Pudding into Shape If a pudding or pastry cream has become lumpy during cooking, Patricia Williams of Houston, Texas, turns to a restaurant trick to smooth things out: She uses an immersion blender to quickly blend the pudding until it’s smooth and then passes the pudding through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any remaining solid bits. Clump-Free Sugar After going to measure granulated sugar and finding that it had caked and turned into a solid white brick, Gregory Sarafin of Center Moriches, N.Y., turned to his potato masher. With a few strokes, he easily broke up the sugar into granules. Patching Cracked Shells Rather than throw away pie dough trimmings, Melissa Borrell of Annville, Pa., saves the scraps for patchwork. If there are any cracks or holes in a pie shell after she prebakes…

9 min.
the best turkey you’ll ever eat

I know a lot about turkey—I’ve roasted hundreds of birds while developing two previous recipes for this magazine. I’m adept at keeping the delicate breast meat moist while ensuring that the longer-cooking legs and thighs turn tender. I have tricks for seasoning the flesh all the way to the bone, producing crackling brown skin, and maximizing the flavors of herbs and spices. But if I really wanted to wow you with a single unadorned bite—no drizzle of gravy, no sprinkle of flaky salt, no dollop of cranberry sauce—I wouldn’t bother with any of those techniques. I’d make turkey confit. The term “confit” is derived from the French verb “confire,” which means “to preserve.” Before refrigeration, confit was used as a simple and effective way to prolong the shelf life of foods,…

1 min.
why you should invest in duck fat

Some confit recipes call for vegetable oil or chicken fat instead of duck fat, and we found that all three fats produce confits that brown beautifully and taste similar—even though the fats taste very different on their own. That’s because the meat doesn’t absorb fat during the confit process; it emerges with just a bare coating on its surface. But I still recommend using duck fat (chicken is my second choice) if you can swing it. The fat absorbs flavors from the meat as it cooks, making it even more complex-tasting, and I find duck fat to be particularly delicious. The upshot is that you end up with a fantastic by-product that can be reused in a variety of ways. Strain the leftover fat; freeze it; and then use it…

2 min.
sous vide confit

SOUS VIDE TURKEY THIGH CONFIT WITH CITRUS-MUSTARD SAUCE SERVES 6 TO 8 TOTAL TIME: 17½ HOURS, PLUS 4 DAYS SALTING Start this recipe at least five days or up to 12 days before serving (almost all the time is hands-off). We double-bag the turkey thighs to protect against seam failure, so you will need four 1-gallon zipper-lock freezer bags. If preferred, use a vacuum sealer and skip the double-bagging. This recipe calls for the same ingredients as Turkey Thigh Confit with Citrus-Mustard Sauce, with two exceptions: You need only 1 cup of fat or oil and. teaspoon of granulated garlic instead of a head of garlic. 1. Follow recipe for Turkey Thigh Confit with Citrus-Mustard Sauce through step 1. 2. Using sous vide circulator, bring 4 inches (about 6 quarts) water to 158…

11 min.
mastering beef wellington

Of all the recipes I’ve developed, none has made me as proud as beef Wellington. That’s not to say I wasn’t intimidated at first: The ingredients are expensive, there are multiple components to consider, and success is notoriously elusive. But over time, I figured out how to orchestrate the steps into a foolproof process to produce a stunningly beautiful—and delicious—dish. Most beef Wellington recipes come together like this: Coat a well-seared beef tenderloin in duxelles (finely chopped sauteed mushrooms), wrap it in crepes or thinly sliced prosciutto, top it with smears of liver pate or slabs of foie gras, and encase everything in fancifully decorated pastry. Then slide it into the oven, fingers crossed that the beef emerges juicy and pink inside a crisp, golden crust. I spent three days (and a…