Travel + Leisure January 2020

TRAVEL + LEISURE™ is an indispensable guide to where to stay, what to eat, and what to do around the globe. Every month, TRAVEL + LEISURE™ puts easy trip ideas, itineraries, and insider information right at your fingertips. Get advice from our travel experts and view the magazine's award-winning photography. The digital edition of TRAVEL + LEISURE™ has all the tools you need to take you where you want to go.

United States
Meredith Corporation
USD 5.99
USD 19.99
12 Números

en este número

6 min.
letter from the editor

CONTRIBUTORS 1. Alexandra Fuller CALL OF THE RIVER (P. 92) For this issue, the author of the recently released memoir Travel Light, Move Fast (Penguin Random House) returned to Zimbabwe, visiting the places that served as the backdrop of her youth: the banks of the Zambezi River and the mist-shrouded Victoria Falls. “Going back was a farewell to my childhood and an introduction to myself as an adult,” she notes. Fuller recalls watching the sun set from a sandbar in the middle of the Zambezi. “I thought of all the millions and millions of creatures that have thrived and died and fought and bred on these banks,” she says. “To have been one of those millions and millions of creatures seems to me something of wonder.” 2. Peter Bohler CALL OF THE RIVER In Zimbabwe, the…

20 min.
where to go now 2020

1 Arequipa, Peru The preserved colonial architecture of “the White City”—so called for its gleaming structures made from sillar, a volcanic rock—earned the historic center of Arequipa UNESCO World Heritage status in 2000. But a dearth of upmarket lodgings has kept this Peruvian destination off most travelers’ radar. Now, the town finally has accommodations befitting the local history: August saw the opening of Cirqa (; doubles from $420), originally built in 1540—the year Arequipa was founded—as an inn for guests of the Church of San Agustín next door. The property marries elements of the existing structure (high vaulted ceilings, bare stone walls) with contemporary flourishes, such as wrought-iron-framed windows and a plunge pool. Further steeped in history is the cuisine at La Nueva Palomino (; entrées $6–$20), where a female-led staff…

6 min.
moving just to stand still

TRAVELERS’ TALES, FROM NEAR AND FAR Edited by PETER TERZIAN WHEN WE ARRIVED at Bahía Bustamante, a small, windswept, sun-bleached, perfectly godforsaken lodge on the edge of eastern Patagonia, my eight-year-old son, Finn, said, “It seems like we’re kind of in the middle of nowhere.” I did not then say, We came here to go nowhere. Which was true, and would be a terrible name for an Emily Dickinson poem. Since my wife and I relocated our family to Los Angeles a year ago, we’d come to believe we were trapped inside a Möbius strip of strip malls, each with the very same fro-yo shop. So the idea of spending spring break at the empty far reaches of the planet appealed to us. Please note: it takes two days to get to nowhere. First…

5 min.
magic mountain

I BEGAN MY FIRST MORNING at New Mexico’s Taos Ski Valley sipping coffee in bed, watching the early risers slalom down the mountain outside my window. I’d been warned that a lot has changed since I last downhill skied 20 years ago. The skis of today are shorter than those I used as a kid growing up in New England. Snowboarders are no longer a novelty. There are selfie sticks. It sure was cozy inside my hotel room. Maybe middle age was too late for a comeback? Taos Ski Valley ( isn’t what it used to be, either. The resort was founded in the 1950s by Ernie Blake, a German émigré who helped interrogate Nazi leaders for the U.S. military during World War II. After the war ended, he settled with…

6 min.
three cheers for trondheim

I ARRIVED IN THE CITY of Trondheim just in time for the 17th of May—known to Norwegians as Nasjonaldagen, or National Day. Every year, the country celebrates the 1814 signing of its constitution by throwing a joyous street party. Men wear their best suits, while women and children dress in traditional folk costumes: sweeping blue capes and embroidered vests and skirts. Parents let their kids eat ice cream with abandon. I may have been a little delirious from jet lag, but as I wandered through Trondheim, it was impossible not to get swept up by all the pomp-free pageantry and collective high spirits. I stopped to watch a morning procession of flag-waving schoolchildren and, later, a jolly, everyone’s-welcome parade of marching bands, acrobats, and organized groups of local enthusiasts, from flamenco…

3 min.
adventures in tiger kingdom

JAN BRETT CREATES worlds where magic happens—where honey badgers talk, hedgehogs explore space, and trolls steal your Christmas decorations. The author, who has sold more than 40 million books, has been a family favorite for decades. What fans might not know is that the Berkshires-based Brett takes extensive research trips to build her elaborate, enchanting realms, from Norway,Botswana, and Japan to Arctic Alaska (for an upcoming book about a musk ox). Her latest work, The Tale of the Tiger Slippers (G.P. Putnam’s Sons; $19), is based on a Middle Eastern folk tale. Unlike in the original, it’s not merchant Abu Kassem who learns an important lesson, but a Bengal tiger—one that lives in a kingdom inhabited by crocodiles and sloth bears. Brett visited Bandhavgarh, Kanha, and Panna national parks in Madhya…