Tabla de contenidos para July/August 2019 en AFAR

1. The Citizen Scientist’s Holiday At Waterton Lakes National Park in Alberta, Canada, travelers can combine their passion for service with a love of the outdoors. Led by Earthwatch, participants pair up with scientists and volunteers from the neighboring Blackfoot tribal lands to collect data and gain insight into the relationships between fires, wolves, bison, elk, aspen trees, and native prairie. Participants hike up to 10 miles a day to measure tree growth, track wolves, and record animal sightings that help conservationists understand this complex ecosystem. From $2,495. Departures May through August 2019 and 2020. earthwatch.org—NORA WALSH 2. Cuba Is for the Birds Cuba may conjure visions of salsa dancing and cigars, but the island’s protected natural areas also make it a prime bird-watching destination. On the 11-day “Flyway Expedition”…

ASK TRAVELLERS WHO HAVE VISITED Cayman, (as it is lovingly referred to by locals) and they agree that it is a place like no other. From the moment you step off the plane and take in the salty Caribbean breeze to the instant you sit back in your beach chair, feel the warm sun on your face and gaze out into the endless ocean blue; a special connection to this island is made. Being here in the moment strengthens your affinity with this beautiful place. At the Grand Cayman Marriott, we are all about enjoying the island’s endless summer. The aim is to evoke the happy nostalgia of summer – a time when life is bright and carefree. The team do their best to provide guests with the ultimate Beach…

I’LL CONFESS: I’VE always wanted to know how it feels to be one of the nobility. And as I lounge in the leather backseat of a Rolls-Royce Phantom—the model that conveyed Meghan Markle to her wedding—with a chauffeur at the wheel, I’m getting my first taste. Our destination? The Goodwood Estate in southeastern England, home to Charles Gordon-Lennox, the car-loving 11th Duke of Richmond and sixth Duke of Gordon—and to the Rolls-Royce manufacturing center, birthplace of the Phantom. Beech and oak trees parade past the tinted windows of the Phantom as we drive through the vast wooded estate. We pass the Duke’s stately house—and his sculpture park and his private motor-racing circuit—to reach the much more modern Rolls-Royce headquarters. Built in 2003 on 42 acres of land leased from the…

THREE YEARS AGO, my husband and I wandered the streets of the toniest neighborhood in Mexico City. His job had just transferred us to the city, and I was trying to see myself somewhere in the designer-shop windows and fancy restaurants. The Polanco district felt too clean and polished for me, a born-and-bred New Yorker, and my hunger was mounting by the minute. After hours of walking, we joined a long line of suited men who were waiting at a hole-in-the-wall taquería with a few counter seats and a sign advertising it as a corner of mérida, now in polanco. Our curiosity was piqued—we’d never had food from the Yucatán Peninsula, where the city of Mérida is located. Soon we found ourselves staring down at two large plates of shredded…

MADRID Corral de la Morería Opened in 1956, Corral de la Morería is one of the most recognized flamenco spots in the country. A Michelin-starred tapas menu accompanies performances by Spain’s most famous musicians and dancers. Calle de la Morería 17, corraldelamoreria.com Casa Patas Paco de Lucía, the flamenco player who taught writer Lavinia Spalding’s father, is just one of the many revered guitarists who have played at this tavern. Casa Patas serves classic tapas and offers flamenco dance classes. Calle de los Cañizares 10, casapatas.com BARCELONA Los Tarantos One of Barcelona’s oldest flamenco venues, Los Tarantos opened in 1963 and continues to host three or four 30-minute performances each night. The lively shows and inexpensive tickets ($17) make Los Tarantos an ideal flamenco experience for first-timers. Plaça Reial 17…

LA CALMA Elegant La Calma is the “it” restaurant for the local natur ral wine set. As at Tres Peces in Valparaíso, the focus is on sustainable fish, prepared simply and superbly. Expect the freshest oysters, fish on a plank, and cochayuyo, Chilean seaweed that tastes like hearts of palm. The wine list is a mix of the best of local and European naturals. lacalma.cl POLVO BAR DE VINOS With a wood-paneled bar and slightly industrial vibe, this wine bar is a heartthrob, located in the Bellavista neighborhood around the corner from La Chascona, one of Pablo Neruda’s former homes. The wine list is deep, with about 150 mostly natural bottles from Chile and around the world. Whether you’re there for lunch or dinner, the food is snappily fresh and…

1. Explore Patagonia’s Wilds in High Style See Chile’s glaciers, lakes, and granite peaks on Butterfield & Robinson’s seven-day Patagonia expedition. Guests spend four nights at the Awasi Patagonia lodge, where 14 private villas look out over Torres del Paine National Park. Travelers can choose their adventures: Ride horses with gauchos, hike the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers, bike along the Señoret Channel, or study 25 million-year-old fossils at La Cumbre-Baguales Geo-Paleontological Park. Awasi’s wood-fired hot tubs await at the end of the day. From $7,995. Departures from November 2019 through April 2020.butterfield.com —AUDREY BRUNO 2. The Ultimate Surf Boot Camp The high from the first seconds atop a surfboard, with a curl of saltwater as nature’s propeller, quickly becomes addictive. Chasing that feeling is the specialty of Terry Simms Surf.…

Only potential customers can tour the Rolls-Royce headquarters, but anyone can experience Britain’s automotive heritage at the Goodwood Estate. The Duke’s motor-racing circuit is open for driving experiences (say, joining a professional driver in laps around the course) and hosts two of the most stylish races in the country, the Goodwood Festival of Speed in July and the Goodwood Revival in September. Stay on-site at the four-star Goodwood Hotel, where you can take in a horse race or watch a cricket match. Rooms from $130. goodwood.com…

1. La Tradición Chef David Cetina may as well be the ambassador for cochinita pibil in the Yucatán. Two generations of family members before him were cooks and restaurateurs in the area, and he upholds their legacy by preparing his cochinita pibil in the time-honored enterrado (buried) method. latradicionmerida.com 2. Manjar Blanco Owner Miriam Peraza is considered by many to be the queen of traditional cooking in the Yucatán—she’s the woman who taught celebrity chef Rick Bayless to make cochinita on his 2018 trip to the region. At her restaurant, headed up by her chef son, Jorge, she serves a more finessed version of cochinita, as well as queso relleno (cheese filled with spiced pork) and manjar blanco, the pudding-like dessert for which the restaurant is named. Calle 47 #496…

Traverse the Tetons on horseback with Linn Outfitters, based in Wilson, Wyoming, just across the Snake River from Jackson. Head guide Peter Linn comes from a long line of homesteaders, hunters, and outfitters and has spent more than 35 years exploring the mountains around Jackson Hole. Horse-supported hiking, hunting, and fishing excursions, ranging from daylong rides to weeklong adventures, are typically private and can be customized to fit each group’s needs. Meals of elevated cowboy cuisine, prepared by on-site cooks, are included. Choose from additional experiences and accommodations through Pendergraft Outfitters, also owned by Peter, and Idahobased Linn Canyon Ranch, co-owned and run by Peter and other members of his family. From $350 per person, per day. linnoutfitters.com…

IT WAS DARK WHEN we drove up to the home of winemaker Roberto Henríquez in the Bío Bío region of central Chile. I had pink granitic sand in my shoes from a day spent touring Roberto’s vineyards. I was jet-lagged, thirsty, starving, and grateful to find his chef friend grilling a fish that had been in the nearby ocean that morning. My travel buddy, a Brooklyn-based sommelier named Alex Alan, sat down and asked for a corkscrew. Wine was poured. I spooned chunky porotos granados, a traditional stew made with fresh cranberry beans, onto my plate. “What’s that spice?” I asked, marveling at an unfamiliar smokiness. “Merkén,” Roberto said. It’s a spice used by Chile’s indigenous Mapuche people, he explained. Made with goat horn pepper, merkén tasted like smoked paprika…

IN A PAPER PUBLISHED recently in the journal Psychological Science, professors from Stanford and Yale questioned the concept of “finding your passion”—advice that has been commonly dispensed to college students and midlife-crisis sufferers during the last three decades. The results of their research? That such advice can often lead to disappointment. The authors argue that for many people, passions aren’t something we’re born with. They don’t lie in wait to be discovered. Rather, they are born of experience and need to be cultivated. As I see it, travel offers the most fertile opportunities for developing passions. The more we see of the world, the more likely we are to learn what sparks our curiosity. And once we find those things, they fuel further exploration. When I was in my twenties,…

1. Recenter Yourself in Baja Bask in the sun and saltwater of Mexico’s Baja California Sur on a six-day wellness retreat with MT Sobek. The collaboration between legendary health resort Canyon Ranch and yoga instructor Adrea Richmond keeps travelers moving. Some mornings blend yoga sessions with surfing lessons, kayaking, or standup paddling; others focus on birdwatching or snorkeling with dolphins, manta rays, and whale sharks in the Bay of La Paz and the UNESCOlisted Espíritu Santo Archipelago National Park. Each day’s adventure wraps up with Mexican fare prepared by local chefs. From $4,995. November 7–12, 2019, and January 4–9, 2020. mtsobek.com—JILL K. ROBINSON 2. A Tropical Detox Costa Rica’s diverse landscape, which in some places seems untouched by modern life, is a magnet for wellness-minded travelers yearning to unplug. G…

1. A Peruvian Feast Culture Xplorers’ nine-day “Food, Art, and Adventure in Peru” trip offers unparalleled access to the nation’s celebrated culinary community. Travelers attend guided coffee tastings with master roasters; tour fields of native tubers along ancient Inca trails; and forage for seaweed and succulents along the Costa Verde with staff from one of Lima’s best cevicherías, Barra Lima, where they later enjoy a meal from chef John Evans Ravenna. The trip also includes a sunrise hike to Machu Picchu and a visit with an indigenous weaving co-op founded by textile expert Nilda Callañaupa. From $5,497. Departures yearround. culturexplorers.com —NICHOLAS GILL 2. The Cheese Stands Alone When you hit the road with Cheese Journeys, things are bound to get cheesy. On the 12-day tour “Alpine Regions of France and…

WHEN I BEGAN MY barista job at CC’s Coffee House, my brother Michael, a veteran employee of the French Quarter, explained which streets I was to avoid on the way to the bus stop at night and demonstrated the forward posture in which I was to hold myself in order to appear most threatening. Every day, Michael broke from his own work at K-Paul’s Restaurant on Chartres to walk the few blocks to where I worked on Royal Street. I fed him dark chocolate–covered espresso beans and a frozen drink called the Mochasippi. From time to time, he’d look to me and say: “What, you don’t like to do nothing to your hair?” My brothers were always asking me this about my hair, an unregulated mass standing up and pointing…

I WAS BORN and raised in Jeonju, a city famous for traditional Korean cuisine. Our region has plenty of clean, flowing water and access to high-quality ingredients. And because my immediate family was responsible for our relatives’ ancestral rites, we prepared big family dinners more than 10 times a year. My mom was a very good cook, and my dad worked for a global trading company. He’d bring home baking tools from all over the world, which my mom would experiment with. Whenever she cooked, I helped out. When I entered middle school, I started baking simple things for myself as a hobby. At that time, there weren’t any recipe books or even blogs I could turn to. My sister, who was studying abroad, would mail me cookbooks. I cooked…

DE MARTINO Isla de Maipo, 45 minutes southwest of Santiago The spot: One of Chile’s oldest family wineries, De Martino was an early adopter of organic farming: The winery stopped using yeasts and most other additives nearly a decade ago. For the Viejas Tinajas wines, winemaker Marcelo Retamal starts with fruit harvested from old vines in Itata then ferments and ages the wines in old amphorae called tinajas. All tours include a tasting of the tinaja wine. You can also arrange to have lunch or dinner—and the lovely grounds are worth exploring. Tours and tastings from $27 per person. demartino.cl Make it an overnight: The Amplus Restaurante and Hotel offers simple rooms and casual, Peruvian fare. From $75. VIÑA TIPAUME The Cachapoal Valley, 90 minutes south of Santiago The spot:…