“Yalla, yalla!” Sari Husseini called out in Arabic. “Let’s go!”
With 10 miles of trail ahead, we pedaled away from Jebel es Saffaha, a mountain in southern Jordan with a long narrow ridge leading to its summit. To the west, the Arabah Valley cut a swath next to the Israel-Jordan border. To the east, the Ard as Sawwan Desert unfolded into a shimmering haze toward Saudi Arabia.
In the spring of 2022, photographer Kari Medig and I set off with our mountain bikes, a pickup truck, and our guide, Sari, to ride on sections of the Jordan Trail, a recently established 420-mile hiking route—with plenty of parallel biking paths—that traverses the length of the country. Sari, who owns the Amman-based company Cycling Jordan, rode with us, and a driver shuttled…