On the last Saturday in April, a fresh, pungent garlicky smell inundates the little mountain town of Helvetia, West Virginia. The source of the aroma: the village community hall, where volunteers wash, sort and fry 1,200 pounds of foraged ramps (little wild leeks) for the annual Helvetia Ramp Supper, an event with a 75-year history. For $15, you get a hearty meal of ramps, fried potatoes, soup beans, cornbread, ham or bacon, sassafras tea and various homemade desserts. Similar festivals happen all across Appalachia with locals and visitors alike celebrating spring’s long-awaited arrival when these first wild edibles appear in mountain climes. And the popular events double as a sort of homecoming, reaffirming strong community bonds; many also benefit local charities, like the Farm Women’s Club and the Community Hall…
