EARLY MORNING, sun still way below the horizon, the air has a cold, refreshing bite that I can feel deep into my lungs. Tall evergreens, their trunks furry with moss, reach tall into the purple sky. The only sounds are the steady zip-ziiiip…zip-ziiiip of our skins over a crusty snow surface, and our breath, appearing as vapor in the stillness and vanishing just as quickly. Other than our party of four—Beau Fredlund, Adam Clark, Noah Howell, and me—the only other sign of life is a set of moose tracks postholed deep into the snow. The animal has dropped several piles of scat, which look like Milk Duds, along the skin track.
“He’s eating the Old Man’s Beard off the trees,” says Fredlund, a ski guide in Cooke City, Montana, as…
