Tabla de contenidos para Spring 2024 en Trail

I read a great quote a couple of weeks ago that probably sums up my mindset at this time of the year: “If we had no winter, the spring would not be so pleasant.” I always like the idea of winter when it first hits – frost on the ground, snow on the summits, long nights in loud pubs with open fires. But after a while the lack of daylight and the weather (the town I live in has been submerged for about 2 months) start to grind me down. Which is why I love the early weeks of spring. As I type these words the birds are scrapping on the feeders outside the window of my messy little garden office, the daffodils are up, the tips of tree branches…

MOUNTAINS FOR THE MIND The scent of the woodland, the sun dappling through leaves hanging from the trees, and the repetitive sound of my boots on rough paths – this is my new therapy. Over the last five years, life has been difficult. A separation, divorce, change in financial circumstances, hospitalisation with Covid-19 and then work changes. When would it end? If there was ‘light at the end of the tunnel’, this seemed to be a very long tunnel. I had tried to deal with everything on my own, as many men do, staying quiet a lot of the time and not asking for help. Over time, my mood continued to decline and I became isolated, depressed and anxious. I clearly remember the day that things had to change. Over…

I hauled the kayak onto my back and set off up the mountain. I’d be willing to bet that’s not a phrase that’s appeared in Trail very often. But that was the plan for the day’s adventure. This wasn’t one of those eccentric ‘round Ireland with a fridge’-type challenges though. Oh no. This was a voyage of discovery, a conquest of new and untrodden territory. For once, I was venturing into the hills with a different objective in mind: not a summit, but an island. The island in question is only a couple of metres wide. It lies not quite slap-bang in the middle of Llyn yr Adar, one of the many mountain lakes north of Cnicht, in the heart of Eryri (Snowdonia). It’s a quiet spot, only really frequented…

You might not have heard of Nemo before. No, not the lost fish. No, not Jules Verne’s submarine captain. We’re talking about the American camping kit brand. It’s certainly not unheard of in the UK, with many well respected independent outdoor gear stores stocking Nemo’s excellent tents, sleeping bags and other camping gear. But it’s not as widely available or well known as certain other brands. And, as those who use its products will be keen to tell you, Nemo kit is worth hunting out – it’s good stuff. How good? Well, if this Tensor Extreme Conditions (or Tensor EC for short) sleeping mat is anything to go by, very good. You see, outdoor gear is often about compromise. In the case of sleeping mats, if you want a product…

6 OF THE BEST FIELD TEST YOUR TESTERS While a rugged, heavyweight waterproof shell is a good choice for winter hillwalking and mountaineering, the rest of the year you can often get away with a lighter waterproof jacket. After all, in spring and summer your rain gear will, hopefully, spend most of its time stuffed in your rucksack. With that in mind, it makes sense to carry a lighter and more packable jacket in all seasons apart from winter. A lightweight waterproof jacket also has numerous benefits when you’re wearing it. Typically, thinner fabrics are more breathable and feel less cumbersome, permitting greater freedom of movement. In milder temperatures you really want a shell with good breathability to get rid of any excess fug as you build up a sweat. Versatile…

Year-round insulation Montane Fireball Insulated Hooded Jacket £240 I’ve had a few jackets like this one over the years. The first of these was an earlier incarnation of the Montane Fireball that I used on a couple of very memorable wild camps in Scotland’s Arrochar Alps and Spain’s Sierra Nevada mountains around 10 years ago. What I loved about that old jacket was the fact it was low on weight and bulk but delivered excellent insulation when temperatures dropped, particularly if I was still on the move. Neither the old or new Fireball were designed for sitting or standing around in sub-zero conditions. This is very much a piece of active insulation that works brilliantly when you’re doing things like walking, scrambling, climbing or pitching a tent. The closest jacket…

When it comes to rugged walking in the Bannau Brycheiniog, aka Brecon Beacons National Park, the place is oddly upside-down. Along the summit ridges the paths are wide and smooth; bare rock, when you find it, is flat sandstone pavement. For real ruggedness you need to head downhill, to the woodlands of Nedd Fechan. Here the paths are tree roots and lumpy limestone, above the gorges of the river. And given that the Welsh language has four separate words for a waterfall, it’s only appropriate that splashy bits replace summits, as you seek out anything named as Ffrwd, Pistyll, Rhaedr or Sgwd. Here you can get your legs and eyes around nine ‘sgydau’ – and be surprised at how different they all are. From the miniNiagara of Sgwd Clun-Gwyn, by…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 6 Outer Hebrides MOUNTAIN & MOORLAND Rising to 620m amid the uninhabited hill country of South Uist’s eastern seaboard, Beinn Mhor is both the highest summit in Uist and the most impressive. The mountain’s long, narrow summit ridge, scored with intimidating vertical gullies on its northern face, makes for an exhilarating walk. The most frequently used route up Beinn Mhor is an out-and-back starting by the A865 south-east of Howmore, which crosses boggy moorland before picking up the northwest ridge. The circular route described here approaches across moorland from Loch Aineort to the south-west and is the most direct – if not the easiest – route up Beinn Mhor. This walk takes full advantage of the mountain’s rugged charms and tremendous views. The route climbs the rough, steep south-western…

LONG-DISTANCE TRAILS Shropshire has been blessed with some of England’s most serene rural beauty, from its colourful red earth, which adds a richness to the pastures and cliffs, to sleek escarpments, rocky outcrops and verdant pastured ridges in the south and its wide plains and charming sleepy villages in the north. In-between the River Severn slithers and meanders like a serpent on its long journey from mountain to sea. Shropshire is quiet and peaceful, with only two big towns: Shrewsbury and Telford. Others, such as Whitchurch, Ludlow, Bishop’s Castle and Bridgnorth, are small but very pleasant market towns, many with a violent and colourful past, for Shropshire borders Wales and has often fallen to the Celtic princes from the west. Ruined castles in all corners of the county and Offa’s…

LAKE DISTRICT High Crag Looking down its nose at Buttermere, High Crag doesn’t get a lot of love. But seen here from Fleetwith Pike on the opposite side of the valley, it dominates the skyline, looking ruggedly handsome. The allure of High Pike lies not just in its 744m summit, a relatively easy acquisition from Scarth Gap to its south-east, but also in an onward traverse above Comb Crags along the ridge that links High Crag to High Stile and divides the Ennerdale and Buttermere valleys. Whether you climb it for its own benefits, on Wainwright’s famous Coast to Coast, or as part of our epic 3-day Ennerdale Skyline backpacking route (see routes 7-9 in this issue), it’s a fell that will take you on a journey through Lakeland that…

Tryfan Eryri (Snowdonia) “This photo is from a quiet Sunday evening on Tryfan, when all the crowds were already gone. It was the end of the weekend and I had a long way to drive back home to Reading, but I decided to stay on the summit until the sunset and then run back down in the dark.” Vit Javorik Kilimanjaro Tanzania “Here is a recent picture of myself and my new friend Dave Clark on our hard-fought summit of Kilimanjaro. We are wearing socks over our boots – local way instead of crampons – but I have to say it works!” Peter Hurlbutt Sgiath Chuil The Trossachs “I travelled up to Scotland from Essex in January of this year, and was rewarded with five days of blue skies and…

I stand atop a humongous boulder, confronting the onslaught headon. The wind howls with a primal ferocity, whipping the lake into a frenzy of white horses and swirling spindrift typhoons. With my arms aloft and legs tensed, like a warrior bracing for impact from an advancing army, I’m tempted to bellow a war cry of defiance to Mother Nature: “C’mon, is that all you’ve got?” Across the black-blue expanse of Wast Water, Yewbarrow’s Dropping Crag ridge soars into the greying skies with a volcano-like profile. To its right, the colossal mass of Kirk Fell lurks, veiled and withdrawn, as if content to surrender the limelight to its charismatic neighbour Great Gable. Gable needs no second invitation, proudly displaying the Great Napes – a dark, craggy blockade of rock jutting out…

The craggy heights of the Scafell range, the gargantuan sweeping moorland of the Cairngorms, the turquoise waters of Pembrokeshire… the UK’s National Parks are some of our most beautiful places. And we’re set to get more. Scotland has already opened the nomination process for a new National Park, asking communities and organisations to pitch their places. Wales is considering a new one along the north-east of the country, neighbouring Eryri (Snowdonia) and sweeping over the Clwydian hills and Dee Valley. And Westminster announced at the end of last year that the hunt was on for a new National Park in England as well. Natural England has been tasked with selecting somewhere that is both naturally beautiful and has the potential to connect a lot of people with nature. That sounds…

I t was a great forecast. Cold, clear, even a full moon. What’s more, there was just enough snow about to make it feel epic, yet not enough to slow me down. And boggy areas would be frozen. The stars were aligning, and they were over the Cairngorms. It was the middle of January, which meant days were short. And since I’d be travelling up to the east of Scotland from the south on the same day my thoughts immediately turned to the idea of using a high starting point. The Glenshee ski centre on the A93 sprang to mind, so I started my search for hills to climb (that I hadn’t climbed before) from there. A couple of kilometres north-east of the pass, Carn an Tuirc and Cairn of…

This recipe comes together in under 30 minutes but doesn’t skimp on flavour! Picture succulent strips of steak in a savoury broth, accompanied with hearty egg noodles. PREP TIME 10 mins // Cook time: 25 mins // Serves: 2 INGREDIENTS ■ Chopped ginger (around a ½ thumb size) ■ 2 diced garlic cloves ■ Egg noodles (1-2 wheels) ■ Large handful of dried porcini mushrooms ■ 1 pak/bok choy ■ Miso paste + 500ml boiling water ■ 2 boiled eggs ■ 1 steak (we used a fillet steak but this is open to choice) ■ 1 red chilli ■ 2 spring onions ■ 2 tsp Camping Season’s Lunar Spice Mix ■ 2 tsp sesame oil ■ 2 tsp fish sauce ■ Sesame seeds (optional) ■ Soya sauce to taste IF…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 1 Isle of Arran DOUBLE CORBETT CIRCUIT While Goatfell holds the top spot on most hillwalkers’ Arran wish lists, the rugged charms of less frequented Beinn Tarsuinn and Cir Mhor should not be overlooked. From the approach, pyramidal Cir Mhor looks dauntingly jagged at the far end of Glen Rosa, but Beinn Nuis and Beinn Tarsuinn must be tackled first; as you begin to climb the first 700m, the burning in your thighs is overshadowed by magnificent views of the surrounding mountains, Ailsa Craig in the south, and a glimpse of the Paps of Jura over Kintyre. Avoiding A’ Chir, the ridge between Beinn Tarsuinn and Cir Mhor, this route’s scrambling is unexposed and enjoyable, breaking up the walk with intermittent sections of clambering around giant granite boulders.…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 4 Lake District QUIET EASTERN FELLS On the very eastern side of the Lake District lies the lonesome Longsleddale. A traditional Cumbrian farming valley, it is home to thousands of grazing sheep but not many humans. Accessed by a long, single-track road and with no facilities for visitors, this is not a place to languish or linger, unless you’re planning to explore the higher ground that encircles the head of the valley, Sadgill. In which case, commit to access the valley on foot or cleverly plan time of year/time of day to enjoy all the quiet benefits some walkers look for. There’s no local pub, no takeaway coffee, no public toilets, no visitor centre, no waymarked walking trails. Yet character and history are in modest abundance, and the valley…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Lake District ULTIMATE WEEKEND ▲ 3-DAY ROUTE It doesn’t have the popularity of Wasdale, Borrowdale or Langdale, but for many Ennerdale is the ultimate Lake District valley. Rising abruptly out of the coastal plains of West Cumbria, Ennerdale is a remote, wild place with a unique character. It somehow feels more like Scotland, New Zealand or Scandinavia than north-west England. And best of all, it is surrounding on all sides by iconic mountains including the Buttermere Edge fells, Great Gable, Pillar and Steeple. This Ultimate Weekender is a superb way to dive headfirst into the delights of Ennerdale, ticking off 15 Wainwrights, sleeping wild under the stars twice, and completing a high-level circumnavigation of the lake via beautiful ridges, gnarly peaks and sun-drenched grassy tops. What’s not to love?…

MOUNTAIN RIDGE GUIDE KEY FACTS  When is a ridge not a ridge? Arguably, when it’s half of a horseshoe. But actually, that point of view falls apart under any sort of logical scrutiny. After all, why shouldn’t a perfectly good ridgeline still be regarded as such just because it happens to be attached to another. And more to the point, when the other half of that horseshoe is a little… well, uninspiring – certainly as far as its ridge-ness goes – then why shouldn’t the spotlight be shone on the more aesthetically and arête-ically pleasing component? No reason at all, is the answer. With that in mind, let’s turn our attention to the Kentmere Horseshoe. This high-level walk is a Lakeland classic, sweeping up from the village, around the reservoir…

VIEW WITH A ROOM THE YAN, LAKE DISTRICT There’s no doubt about it, The Yan is something a bit special. It’s pampering, with a down-to-earth, rustic charm – perfect for a special occasion in the Lakeland mountains. Set in the fellsides just outside of Grasmere, the two-generation family business offers a range of gorgeous accommodation, from rooms and glamping pods, to self-catering cottages. But don’t miss out on the dinner, bed and breakfast options at the Bistro, because the food is something else! It’s both dogfriendly and family-friendly too. theyan.co.uk READ IT: IN THE LAKE DISTRICT THE GRAVE TATTOO by Val McDermid A psychological thriller set in the Lake District. Rain on the fells has revealed a centuries-old body, and scholar Jane Gresham suspects a connection with Lakeland poet William…

Nature is a light that never goes out, but I’ll freely admit there are times of year when the flame burns low. The cuckoo, along with its song, is the bird that reinvigorates that light, for even the most unobservant will hear it and know it’s spring. The cuckoo is about the size of a collared dove, with a body length of up to 36cm and wingspan as much as 60cm. In flight, the pointed wings and long tail give the appearance of a kestrel-sized bird of prey. The small bill soon clears up any confusion with more robustly beaked predators. Adult cuckoos are grey/blue headed, necked and backed. The undersides are white with dark horizontal barring, and their feet, eyes and base of lower bill all add a dash…

BRECON BEACONS Before the emails start flooding in, let’s address the elephant in the paragraph to the left. Although known by most as Sugar Loaf, or The Sugar Loaf, this hill has a more correct name. Mynydd Pen-y-fâl means ‘mountain of the head of the peak’ in Welsh. There are several reasons to use this as opposed to Sugar Loaf. For starters, it’s likely to predate the English name, and at a time where there’s a focus on keeping Cymraeg alive and using the Welsh titles for places rather than the anglicised alternatives, there’s a good argument for using the original. Secondly, Sugar Loaf is a far from unique name for a hill. There are Sugar Loafs the world over, including at least one more in Wales, and this characterful…

RACHAEL GATEHOUSE Edale MRT and a trainee dog handler with Tarn ■ Silva expedition compass – extras like a clinometer and slope card are useful, and the rubber housing means I can handle it easily with gloves on. ■ Beanie hat – makes all the difference to staying warm. My favourite one is comfortable under a helmet and has a thin liner around the ears. JANE ASCROFT Teesdale & Weardale Search & MRT ■ Paper map – I use my phone for navigation most of the time, but paper maps don’t run out of battery and they also give you the ‘big picture’. Laminated maps also double up as a waterproof seat – just don’t forget to pick it up when you leave. HARSHARN GILL Holme Valley MRT ■ Insulated…

Klymit Inertia X Frame Regular Mat £80 If you’re putting all your eggs in the ‘lightweight’ basket, then this is the mat to go for. It weighs just 258g and packs down to around the size of a can of cola. Klymit doesn’t quote an R-value, which suggests it’s very much on the cool side. And comfort? Look at it! If you can get a good night’s sleep on this, you’ll have done better than us. Outwell Flow Airbed Single £112 At 20cm deep you’re unlikely to feel a pea beneath this mattress, and the next-to-skin polyester fabric is soft to the touch. So comfort looks good. But the fact that this bed is full of air means insulation is on the low side and relies on a good sleeping…

YOUR TESTER Reliable 3-season hiking boots are crucial to your hillwalking happiness. Suitable for year-round action, bar the snowiest of winter hikes, they will soak up the lumps and bumps of the roughest trails and keep your feet dry in the wettest and muddiest of bogs, proving a well used and good value purchase. Seems like a no-brainer, right? A good pair of 3-season boots is a must. But sadly, that’s where the simplicity ends. There is humongous variety in the type, style and build of hiking boots these days, with almost polar opposite approaches from different brands – and that massively complicates the decision-making process for consumers. Option one is to go modern and lightweight. These synthetic, trainer-like boots offer out-of-the-box comfort and enable you to move fast and…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 2 North Pennines STILE-FREE ROUTE One of the most stunning features of the Eden Valley in Cumbria is the U-shaped glaciated valley known as High Cup Nick. Often referred to as ‘The Grand Canyon of the North’, it is an aweinspiring example of 500 million years of natural formation. The views from the top of the valley are breathtaking, with the valley stretching out beneath you and the Lake District rising in the distance. It is a truly magical experience, and one that must be seen to be believed. The walk itself is a moderate climb and takes around 5 hours to complete. It starts from the village of Dufton and traverses across the valley, past the grey-blue dolerite crags, before reaching the top of the valley. Once…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 5 Eryri (Snowdonia) REMOTE MOUNTAIN WALK This scabrous mound which languishes beneath Carnedd Llewelyn is seldom the sole target for a day on the hill. But for those seeking huge skies, a 3000ft peak and miles of lonely hillwalking, Foel Grach delivers the goods. The approach from Cwm Eigiau sees bothy-bound revellers and mountain leader groups sneak into Cwm Dulyn while heavily laden climbers head for Craig yr Ysfa. Misanthropes, meanwhile, find solace on the bladed crest of Craig Eigiau, an enjoyable detour at either end of the day, although a gloomy, stone-built hovel will be their ultimate destination. The Foel Grach experience is one of isolation. But if sitting in the dark on the second most remote summit in north Wales isn’t quite the ticket, then Carnedd Gwenllian…

TRAIL MAGAZINE Peak District ULTIMATE WEEKEND ▲ 3-DAY ROUTE Ladybower Reservoir is one of the most popular spots in the Peak District but above it is some of the least trodden moorland in the National Park. The Upper Derwent Valley is roughly 10km long, its three narrow reservoirs fed by bronze-coloured water pouring down through deep cloughs. The hills above, Bleaklow chief among them, are enormous humps of undulating heather. It’s hard to even call them hills. Really, this is a high moorland plateau, carved with deep valleys, the tops indistinct. It makes the horseshoe tricky to draw out but it’s worth doing so for this is a true Dark Peak journey, all heather, gritstone and the sudden squawking of grouse. You could do this whole journey in one incredibly strenuous push…