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WHEN NICK HOUNSFIELD WAS FIVE YEAR SOLD, HIS FATHER, BRIAN, BOUGHT A SURFBOARD. It was the mid-1970s, and surfing, thanks to the nascent commercialisation of the sport in California and Australia, was beginning to acquire a serious following in Britain. Brian, an osteopath and sailing enthusiast who, as Hounsfield remembers, always “liked to be part of the next new exciting thing”, tried to teach himself to surf. Unfortunately, he wasn’t very good. (“Dreadful, in fact! Though he had fun, which is what mattered.”) Instead, he took to putting young Nick on the board, and pushing him into the waves. And Nick, it turned out, was a natural.
On holidays, and trips to the coast from their home in Surrey, the father watched as his son surfed for hours. “It was…