Worth paying for
A fairly long-in-the-tooth gamekeeper told me recently that he doesn’t really believe we’ll ever manage to make game a mass-market product. “Your average British housewife ain’t going to buy a brace of pheasants at Tesco — course she won’t,” he said. He thought the appeal of game shouldn’t be that it’s a source of cheap protein but that it’s a luxury product. I didn’t agree entirely, but he had some valid arguments. On Saturday evening, I was talking to a young film producer who proudly told me that, after reading about venison being more environmentally friendly than imported lamb, she’d bought a leg of roe for lunch on Easter Sunday. “It was so expensive,” she said. “But I guess that’s how much meat should cost.” I’m increasingly aware that there are well-heeled, environmentally…
