EDITOR’S NOTE
If there’s no instruction manual for life, then you can be absolutely certain there ain’t one for surfing. There’s not a hope in hell you’ll be able to make sense of all this by means of a quick YouTube tutorial or a TedTalk. There’s only one way you’re going to unlock the ‘how’ of surfing, and that’s trial and error, my friend. But just like slotting in with a crew who are better than you and finding a mentor to help you push your envelope and tackle bigger waves, we can all lean on the experience of others. You just need the desire to get better. That’s the spirit of Zag’s ‘How To’ Issue. There’s no right or wrong way to surf and I’m grateful for that. Some people last one session,…