Decanter August 2021

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

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12 Edities

in deze editie

1 min
it’s all yours

In her latest column, our correspondent Jane Anson (see p16) raises an interesting point. En primeur coverage has sparked a lot of conversation recently, with some asking why we devote space to something that is claimed to be of fairly niche interest, and only an early clue to the quality of wines which may well be some years from optimum drinkability. So why do we do it? Because, quite simply, our readers find it interesting. We know that lots of people log on to our website, open our emails and buy our magazine to read about it. So we continue to cover it. The same is true for many other subjects. But what we’d like to know is: what aren’t we covering that we should? What else would you like…

1 min
meet the decanter experts

SARAH AHMED is an award-winning wine writer, educator and judge specialising in Portugal and Australia. She is DWWA Regional Chair for Portugal, and publishes on her own website JANE ANSON is a Decanter contributing editor and DWWA Regional Chair for Bordeaux, where she also lives. Her most recent book is an in-depth study of the region, Inside Bordeaux (£60, BB&R Press) SARAH JANE EVANS MW is an award-winning journalist, author and broadcaster, and DWWA Co-Chair. Author of The Wines of Northern Spain (Infinite Ideas, 2018), she is also current chair of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino ANDY HOWARD MW is a Decanter contributing editor and a DWWA Regional Chair. A former retail wine buyer, he now runs his own wine consultancy Vinetrades Ltd, with a focus on wine education and sourcing ELIN MCCOY is a journalist…

9 min

Shortage of sommeliers and staff hits resurgent restaurants From sommeliers to chefs, severe staff shortages have caused headaches for restaurants, pubs and bars in the UK as they seek to reopen for business. While restaurant and pub owners have welcomed the chance to begin reopening their doors, most are concerned about recruitment, according to research by hospitality consultants CGA and Fourth. Many hospitality staff have been forced to find alternative work following Covid lockdowns, yet the research also noted that ‘Brexit has also caused a steep drop in people travelling from Europe to work in the UK.’ Wages have risen in some cases as venues seek extra help. Hourly weekend wages for temporary staff have increased by 9% on average since 2019, and in some instances up to 14%, according to recruitment platform…

2 min
your letters

Remembering Jim Clendenen The sad news about the passing of California winemaker Jim Clendenen (see ʻNews’, brought to mind the one time we met at a tasting. I told Jim how much I enjoyed an old vintage of his Nebbiolo, a grape he is less closely associated with, and he was thrilled. He had also revisited the same vintage recently and was heartened to hear his thoughts echoed. Buoyed by the memory, I decided to flick through an old Decanter California supplement (2016). I ended up reading it cover to cover and ordering some wines (his Au Bon Climat, ABC Pinot Noir included) on the back of it. So I thought I’d pass on the retrospective appreciation. It is one of the beautiful things about wine that things which seem to…

1 min
have blockbuster reds had their day?

There appears to be something of a move away from eating red meat, in the UK at any rate. I wonder whether there are rising implications here for the wine industry – producers, importers, restaurants and retailers. To my mind, reds generally seem to enjoy a higher profile than whites, especially at the premium level. Maybe this will continue. However, could there be increasing impetus away from reds designed for drinking with classic red meat dishes, or ʻblockbuster’ styles, to fresher, more approachable, more versatile and hopefully lower-alcohol styles. Richard Davis, Dingwall, Ross-shire, Scotland, UK PS: I didn’t know whether to be impressed or appalled that Jane Anson was drinking a £100 bottle Chateau d’Esclans, Garrus Rosé, Cotes de Provence with a burger (May 2021). Rather out of my budget, I’m afraid,…

3 min
‘for some people, money isn’t all that matters’

Good old cooperatives – the source of most value wine made in Europe. Ask any supermarket buyer: the shelves would look ragged without them. What a shame they can’t do fine wine too. Or can they? La Chablisienne in Chablis and Cave de Tain in the northern Rhône compete squarely with individual growers; Plaimont has fine-wine offerings from the southwest; and who wouldn’t enjoy a glass of blanc de blancs grand cru Champagne from Le Mesnil? Alto Adige’s Cantina Terlano and Valle Isarco provide some of Italy’s finest whites, while Barbaresco’s Produttori and the Wachau’s Domäne Wachau both furnish a suite of regional benchmarks. I’ve been amazed, recently, by the elegantly bottled, acacia barrel-aged Acaciae Picpoul de Pinet from Cave de l’Ormarine: creating a fine-wine category where none of us previously dreamed…