Decanter March 2016

The joy of terroir Ayala, Chouilly, Champagne Ayala, a house in the heart of the old Champagne capital of Aÿ, has had a tumultuous history. After all the winery buildings were destroyed in the winemakers’ revolt of 1911, it recovered in the 1920s to produce more than a million bottles annually. Following World War II many of its vineyards were sold, but then in 2005 Bollinger bought Ayala with the intention of restoring it to its former glory. The grand cru vineyard pictured here, in the Côte des Blancs village of Chouilly, is just under one hectare, made up of six plots. The 40-year-old Chardonnay vines thrive in the belemnite chalk soil, which allows the roots to dig deeply for nutrients and retain moisture. This prized limestone terroir contributes characteristic…

Torre de Oña, a 4.25-hectare Tempranillo vineyard, sits at 575m above sea level, on a gentle, east-facing limestone and sandstone slope. The ragged Sierra de Cantabria mountains to the north work as a natural barrier, protecting the vines from the cold and wet northerly winds formed over the Bay of Biscay. A Foehn effect is produced, where the rain-laden clouds cause precipitation on the northern slopes, sliding over the crest to reach the water-starved vines. This creates a microclimate, which is far milder and drier than it should be at this altitude. Since 2005, La Rioja Alta has been using satellite images to identify various sub-plots in its vineyards and then making and ageing wines from each plot separately to further enhance the terroir quality in its wines. This image…

John Stimpfig ‘Alas, it’s not all Krug and Comtes – such indulgence does have a price’ BELIEVE IT OR not, I do occasionally question why I buy so much Champagne. Mostly, this worrisome introspection occurs when my wife is scrutinising our bank statements. When actually drinking the stuff, any fleeting financial concerns disappear as quickly as the first glass is emptied. So yes, dear reader, I admit that I have a bit of a Champagne habit. Suffice to say, it is much worse (better?) at this time of year because, chez moi, Christmas and New Year cry out for Reims’ and Epernay’s finest. Like the much quoted Winston Churchill (another addict, I hasten to add), I am easily satisfied with the best. While sparkling wines from California (Roederer Estate), England…

I DON’T KNOW about you, but come February, I’ve usually long since failed to sustain any of my newly minted New Year’s resolutions. Therefore, I am extremely pleased to report that, thus far into 2016, my one wine-related target remains very much on course. Not only that, I am confident that I will easily maintain it for the next 11 months and beyond. How so? Because this year, I am resolved to drink more of the world’s great sweet wine styles than ever before. For some inexcusable and unfathomable reason, I had largely got out of the habit. Yet when I look back at some of the most memorable wines of 2015, several were ‘amabile’, ‘dulce’ and ‘moelleux’. They were also extraordinarily diverse, distinctive and utterly delicious. Take, for instance, the Kopke’s…

FRANCE French winemakers fear the country’s appellation system could be threatened by the relaxation of vineyard planting rules in the European Union. The controversial new rules, which came into effect across the EU on 1 January, mean it is now theoretically possible for anyone to plant a commercial vineyard anywhere, including locations such as the banks of the Seine in Paris. The long-mooted and much-debated deregulation means that the previous system of planting rights has been scrapped in favour of individual, non-transferrable authorisations that can be granted for land not previously considered suitable for vines. Under the new rules, French regions such as Picardie or Ile-de-France can now legally bottle and sell wine commercially, whereas previously any wine produced in these areas could only be made for personal consumption. However, intense lobbying from EU…

FRANCE A bid to grant the Bordeaux 1855 classification UNESCO World Heritage status has been put on hold after some of the châteaux involved voiced doubts about the idea. The bid, announced in June 2013 and led by Philippe Castéja, president of the Conseil des Grands Crus Classés en 1855, fell apart thanks to disputes among the 88 properties recognised in the rankings – 60 in the Médoc, 27 in Sauternes and Barsac, and one in Pessac-Léognan. ‘We only ever wanted to pursue this recognition if all châteaux were agreed,’ Castéja said. ‘Some have doubts, so we will not be moving forward for now.’ He added that, because Burgundy and Champagne were both awarded UNESCO World Heritage status last year, ‘taking a pause’ now might offer a greater chance of success in…