AFAR Sep/Oct 2018

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AFAR is a different kind of travel magazine that guides and inspires those who travel the world seeking to connect with its people, experience their cultures, and understand their perspectives. Get AFAR digital magazine subscription today for intriguing travel stories told with beautiful photos and a fresh design.

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Afar Media, LLC
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1 min.
how to mark a milestone

I RECENTLY CELEBRATED my 60th birthday with a trip to Ireland and Italy, and, as one does on milestone occasions, I found myself reflecting on my life and on how much I have to be thankful for. I’m so fortunate to be doing something I love and believe in: At AFAR, we help inspire, guide, and enable people to have deeper, richer, and more fulfilling travel experiences. And if I needed a reminder of why that matters, all I had to do was look around me. I was traveling with five good friends to Kenmare, Ireland, home of my ancestors, and Cortona, Italy, where one of my friends recently purchased a home. We had a ball. We biked up to Healy Pass in Ireland (a trip organized by AFAR Travel Advisory…

2 min.

Sara Hylton Photographer The Real Jaipur p.57 Get personal: “My background is in documentary work, and I really try to understand who I’m photographing. While shooting [a local’s guide to] Jaipur, I sat down and spoke with many of the artists and shop owners.” Beginning to see: “Back when I didn’t even know what a shutter speed was, I traveled to Vrindavan, India’s city of widows. This community of women living on the outskirts of society fascinated me, and I learned how to take pictures by spending time with them.” Focus with her: on Instagram at @sarahyltonphoto Kathleen Squires Writer From the Ground Up p.24 Tasty tales: “You find out about so much through eating: the people, the culture, the economy. Food can tell so many stories; that’s why I never get tired of writing about it.”…

2 min.
what a wonderful world

IN THE SUMMER of 2004, my dad, who worked as a magazine editor (no, the apple didn’t fall far from the tree), was temporarily transferred from Los Angeles to New York. At the time, I was a broke twentysomething a few years into my own career in Manhattan. Dad stayed in a corporate apartment across town from my office, and we spent much of the summer together. Dad was born in Brooklyn and grew up in Queens, so this New York stint was a homecoming of sorts, and we celebrated with indulgent steakhouse meals, trips to the roof deck of the Met, and a blur of Broadway shows. One humid Saturday morning, I suggested we go farther afield and visit the Louis Armstrong House Museum in Queens. Dad was a huge…

2 min.
from the ground up

Most diners probably don’t realize it, but when they order the curried eggplant at Verde Mesa restaurant in San Juan, they’re helping build a more sustainable Puerto Rico. Every meal of locally grown ingredients supports farmers rebounding from Irma and Maria, the hurricanes that ravaged the island in 2017. Before the storms, Puerto Rico imported about 85 percent of its food. Agriculture had declined steadily after World War II, as government policies encouraged industrialization. Then, just as farming was beginning to stage a comeback, the hurricanes hit. The storms not only destroyed crops, but they also made it harder for imported food to reach the island for distribution. It was clear to two San Juan chefs—Verde Mesa’s Gabriel Hernández, a 2018 James Beard Award semifinalist, and José Enrique Montes, a five-time…

4 min.
american beauty

1. The Siren Hotel Detroit The latest sign of downtown Detroit’s renaissance? The Siren Hotel, which is giving new life to the 1926 Wurlitzer Building, abandoned since the 1980s. The 106 guest rooms feature colorful terrazzo showers and custom-made blankets from Maine Heritage Weavers. The lobby channels Detroit’s early 20th-century glory days with velvet sofas, ornate Italian mirrors, and a Murano glass chandelier. At the Candy Bar, locals gather on bubblegum-pink banquettes beneath a giant disco ball to sip craft cocktails. Try the New Gimlet, made with gin infused with kaffir lime. Reservations are required for the on-site restaurant Albena, an eight-seat tasting counter where chef Garrett Lipar pays homage to Great Lakes ingredients. From $139. —LAURA ITZKOWITZ 2. The Assemblage New York City The wake-up call takes on a new meaning at the Assemblage Hotel…

1 min.
canned goods

1. Westfalia Fort Point Beer Company San Francisco, CA The sibling-run brewery spins sublime modern takes on traditional styles, such as German rotbier. This caramel-rich red ale is cashmere smooth. 2. Clarity of Purpose Fair State Brewing Cooperative Minneapolis, MN Excelling at fruited sours and unfiltered pilsners alike, Fair State has partnered with Surly Brewing Company to create a hugely fragrant, double dry-hopped IPA that’s as clear as the Caribbean. 3. Big Papi Commonwealth Brewing Company Virginia Beach, VA This brewery is one of the East Coast’s best producers of barely bitter double IPAs. The can’s juicy colors evoke the contents’ aroma and flavor. 4. Deer Snacks Shacksbury Vergennes, VT The brewery forages for the wild apples used in a dry cider that, like many of Shacksbury’s fermentations, is as elegant as fine wine. 5. Emergency Drinking Beer Wild Heaven Beer Avondale Estates, GA These Georgian brewers buck convention…