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Bon Appetit

QUICK + SIMPLE = SUMMER

No. 1 Pineapple + Ginger

No. 2 Mango + Chile Flakes

No. 3 Honeydew + Cucumber + Mint

For the recipes in this story, turn to p. 66.

RIPE FRUIT + A DEEP FREEZE + SPLASH OF LIME =

Peak-Season Slushies

When you’re done with your morning cold brew but not quite ready to day drink, that’s when it’s time for these slushies. Juicy and cooling, this is where ripe fruit goes to heaven (plan ahead and freeze seasonal produce yourself!). And when you are ready to day drink? Well, that’s when you add a splash of tequila.

BLANCHED VEG + JAMMY EGGS + JUST ENOUGH EFFORT =

Any Way Niçoise

Nothing says “I’m on vacation” like a two-hour, three-glasses-of-rosé lunch. The key is finding a dish whose prep won’t eat into valuable dozing-off-with-a-book-in-your-lap time. Enter this salad. Pair whatever produce you’ve got with 7-minute eggs, a mustardy dressing you can make ahead, and almost any protein: leftover steak or salmon, rotisserie chicken, or beans, to name a few.

No. 1 Oil - Packed Tuna + Capers + Olives + Potatoes + Cucumbers + Green Beans

No. 2 Lentils + Fennel + Asparagus + Caper Berries + Cherry Tomatoes + Radishes

TOMATOES + CHILES + ONION + YOUR BROILER =

The Only Salsa You Need

Here’s another equation: Chips + Salsa = a snack no one will complain about. The key is to char the ingredients under the broiler for a roasty flavor, then blitz it all in batches for a texture that’s right in between smooth and chunky.

Extra crunchy and hefty enough for scooping, Vista Hermosa Totopos chips are as close to freshly fried as bagged tortilla chips get.

GARLIC + PARMESAN + ALL OF THE BASIL =

Perfect Pesto Pasta

On days so nice we can’t be bothered to think about dinner, our nights end with pesto pasta. When you mean to hit up the fish guy but take a nap instead, pesto is there. When you trade a market run for a belly flop in the pool, pesto. Our recipe is as simple as can be—no blanching here!—and when you sit down to a bowl, it’ll feel so right you’ll think you planned it this way all along.

To keep the pesto bright green, we add the basil near the end, which prevents bruising, and toss it with pasta off the heat.

CREAMY + TANGY + SALTY =

All Day Every Day Sauce

Whatever you’re cooking right now, it could probably benefit from yogurt sauce. Grilled lamb chops? Swoosh it. Basic boiled potatoes? Dollop some on top and suddenly it looks all restaurant-y. This rich, tangy threeing-redient condiment makes even the simplest dishes feel fancy.

No. 1 Farmers ’ Market Crudités

No. 2 Boiled Potatoes + Dill

No. 3 Grilled Lamb Rib Chops

No. 4 Grilled Carrots

Switch Up Your Sauce

1. Add chopped cucumbers for a makeshift raita.

2. Blend it with herbs to make a green sauce.

3. Toast spices in oil; drizzle on top for a dip.

4. Thin with olive oil and more lemon juice for a creamy salad dressing.

BIG FLAVORS + A MICROPLANE =

Universal Marinade

When you’re not in the mood to do much work, you need a marinade that does the work for you. This Vietnamese-inspired iteration, packed with fish sauce, brown sugar, and chiles, hits all the notes, and because it’s more paste than liquid, it clings to meat or seafood for major impact in a short amount of time.

No. 1 Chicken Thighs + Sesame Seeds + Cilantro

No. 2 Boneless Short Ribs + A Char on the Grill

Make Meat into a Meal

1. Wrap in lettuce leaves swiped with gochujang.

2. Lay thin slices over salad.

3. Serve over steamed rice with pickled veggies.

CRUNCHY VEG + A NICE MASSAGE =

Salt-and-Squeeze Slaw

No shade to your standard church picnic slaw, but these days we’re more into this understated variety, with just crunchy vegetables (one kind is plenty, though you can combine a few), salt, a good squeeze to soften the veg, and a splash of seasoned rice vinegar for brightness. Serve it with your Smash Burger Alfresco™ (page 67) and save the mayo-based stuff for another day.

No. 1 Cucumbers + Napa Cabbage

No. 2 Red Cabbage + Red Onion

No. 3 Radishes + White Onion

(ILLUSTRATIONS BY GIACOMO BAGNARA)

Here’s the Squeeze

This method works so well for a few reasons: First, salting draws water out of the vegetables, so they’re more flavorful. Then squeezing expels more water and relaxes them into a crunchy-but-silky state. A final seasoning then has even more impact: The veg have been primed to absorb the rice vinegar and salt.

SUPERTHIN PATTIES + SEARING-HOT GRIDDLE =

Smash Burger Alfresco

Like most everyone else, we can’t seem to get enough of the smash burger, with a lacy griddled patty (or two, actually, to maximize that crispy exterior). But, like drinking an Aperol spritz, cooking it is best done outside. Our grilled version won’t smoke out your kitchen, blanket your stove with grease, or ask you to spend even one more minute of this sweet summer night indoors.

You’re Gonna Need a Griddle

We wouldn’t tell you to buy equipment for a recipe if it weren’t essential, but after exhaustive testing we realized: griddle or bust. For an intense sear in just three minutes, you need a roaring-hot cooking surface. A large griddle maximizes surface area and maintains the heat even when you add cold patties. The lack of side walls promotes searing, not steaming, and makes it easier to angle your spatula under the burgers. (Lodge cast-iron griddle, $45; amazon.com)

FRUIT + CREAM + NOT MUCH ELSE =

Mix-and-Match Fools

There are few joys greater than eating ripe berries straight from the carton. But here’s one: tossing them with sugar so they’re juicier and sweeter, then folding them into freshly whipped cream. Dish out individual servings in your favorite cocktail glasses for a lazy dessert that punches above its weight class.

No. 1 Strawberries + Raspberries

No. 2 Blueberries + Blackberries

Peak-Season Slushies

MAKES 4 Think of this versatile fruit beverage as your base—then get creative. Try blending 2 tsp. mild red pepper flakes with mango, 1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled ginger with pineapple, or half a cucumber and some mint leaves with honeydew.

4 cups 1"-pieces fruit (such as mango, pineapple, watermelon, or honeydew), frozen
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
½ tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. (or more) agave nectar or 1 Tbsp. honey or pure maple syrup
2–3 cups coconut water or water

Blend fruit, lime juice, salt, agave, 2 cups coconut water, and 2 cups ice in a blender on high, adding more coconut water as needed, until very smooth. Taste slushy and add more agave if desired. Divide among glasses.

Any Way Niçoise

6–8 SERVINGS Switch this up to suit your preferences, but try to always include a mix of cooked and raw vegetables for the best textures.

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. honey
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
6 large eggs
1 lb. green beans, trimmed; asparagus, trimmed; and/or new or baby potatoes, halved if larger
4 cups halved or sliced radishes, seedless cucumbers, fennel, and/or tomatoes
3 cups shredded rotisserie chicken, oil-packed tuna, cooked salmon or steak, cooked lentils, or canned white beans or chickpeas Olives, capers, peperoncini, pickles, or other pickled-briny ingredients (for serving) Flaky sea salt

Whisk oil, lemon juice, mustard, honey, pepper, and 1 tsp. kosher salt in a medium bowl; set dressing aside.

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Carefully add eggs and cook 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water (keep pot over high heat); chill until cold, about 5 minutes. Peel; set aside.

Meanwhile, add green beans, asparagus, or potatoes to the same pot of boiling water and cook until just tender (if you are using a combination, cook vegetables separately), 2–4 minutes for green beans or asparagus, 10–15 minutes for potatoes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to bowl of ice water; let sit until cold, about 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels; pat dry.

To serve, slice eggs in half and arrange on a platter with cooked and raw vegetables and protein. Top with pickled-briny ingredient(s), sprinkle with sea salt, and drizzle some reserved dressing over. Serve with remaining dressing alongside.

DO AHEAD: Dressing can be made 5 days ahead; cover and chill. Eggs can be boiled and vegetables blanched 2 days ahead; cover and chill separately.

The Only Salsa You Need

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Pico de gallo, but make it roasted.

2 lb. tomatoes, cored, cut in half crosswise
1 medium white onion, sliced into ¼"-thick rounds
3 serrano chiles
3 garlic cloves, unpeeled Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. finely chopped cilantro
Tortilla chips (for serving)

Heat broiler. Place tomatoes cut side down on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Fit onion, chiles, and garlic around tomatoes so everything is snug but not overlapping. Broil, turning onion and chiles once, until lightly charred, about 6 minutes for chiles and garlic and 15–18 minutes for tomatoes and onion.

Peel garlic and place in a food processor along with half of the tomatoes. Pulse until very smooth. Add remaining tomatoes and pulse until tomatoes are mostly broken up but mixture still has some texture. Transfer to a medium bowl. Finely chop onion and chiles and mix into purée; season with salt. Let cool. Stir in lime juice and cilantro. Season salsa with more salt if needed. Serve with chips.

Perfect Pesto Pasta

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS Use an olive oil that’s good enough for sipping—there’s a lot of it here.

½ cup pine nuts
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 oz. Parmesan, grated, plus more shaved for serving
6 cups basil leaves (from about 3 bunches)
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
12 oz. dried long pasta
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Preheat oven to 350°. Toast pine nuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 5–7 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and let cool, 5–7 minutes.

Add garlic and grated Parmesan to food processor and pulse until finely ground, about 1 minute. Add basil and, with the motor running, add oil in a slow and steady stream; continue to process until pesto is mostly smooth with just a few flecks of green remaining, about 1 minute. Pulse in 1 tsp. salt.

Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving ½ cup pasta cooking liquid.

Place pesto and butter in a large bowl. Add pasta and ¼ cup pasta cooking liquid. Toss vigorously with tongs, adding more pasta cooking liquid as needed, until pasta is glossy and well coated with sauce. Taste pasta and season with more salt if needed.

Divide pasta among bowls. Top with shaved Parmesan.

DO AHEAD: Pesto can be made 1 day ahead. Pour oil over to cover by ¼" to prevent browning. Press plastic wrap directly against surface and chill.

All Day Every Day Sauce

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS Once you’ve paired this sauce with all sorts of vegetables and proteins, reinvent it. Try adding chopped toasted nuts, minced tender herbs, spices (such as cumin, turmeric, or coriander), and/or finely chopped dried fruit (like raisins, apricots, and/or dates).

1½ cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. kosher salt

Mix yogurt, lemon juice, and salt in a small bowl to combine. Cover and chill until ready to use.

Universal Marinade

4 SERVINGS Finely grating the aromatics in this Vietnamese-leaning marinade unlocks their flavor without endless chopping.

Vegetable oil (for grill)
2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed, tough outer layers removed
1 serrano chile
3 garlic cloves
1 1" piece ginger, peeled
1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
1¼ lb. boneless short ribs, skinless, boneless chicken thighs, 1"-thick pork chops, or other cuts of steak Kosher salt
2 scallions, thinly sliced
½ cup cilantro leaves with tender stems Sesame seeds and lime wedges (for serving)

Prepare a grill for high indirect heat (for a gas grill, leave one or two burners off; for a charcoal grill, bank coals on one side); oil grate. Using a Microplane, finely grate lemongrass, chile (seeds and all!), garlic, and ginger into a medium bowl. (Alternatively, you can chop very finely, then mash to a paste using the side of your knife.) Add brown sugar, oil, fish sauce, and soy sauce and mix well.

Season meat with salt and add to bowl. Turn as needed to coat completely. Let sit at least 10 minutes and up to 2 hours. (If marinating longer, wait to fire up the grill.)

Grill meat over hottest part of grill, moving to cooler zone as needed if browning too fast, until well browned, about 5 minutes per side (depending on protein). Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes before slicing.

Transfer meat to a platter and top with scallions and cilantro and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.

Salt-and-Squeeze Slaw

4 SERVINGS If you make this slaw ahead, the vegetables will continue to soften as they sit and become more like pickles, which isn’t a bad thing at all.

6 cups thinly shaved or sliced vegetables (such as cabbage, cucumbers, and/or radishes)
¼ red or white onion, very thinly sliced Kosher salt
¼ cup seasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Combine vegetables and onion in a medium bowl; season generously with salt. Let sit until they start to release their water, 8–10 minutes, then begin to massage, gently at first so they don’t break, then harder as they begin to expel their liquid, until softened to about the texture of coleslaw. Pour off all excess liquid and add vinegar and oil; toss to coat. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

DO AHEAD: Slaw can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Smash Burger Alfresco

4 SERVINGS We found that a three-ounce patty hits the sweet spot: big enough to fill out the bun when smashed but small enough that two patties aren’t overkill.

1 cup finely chopped dill pickles
½ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. ketchup
2 Tbsp. sauce from a can of chipotles in adobo
½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1½ lb. ground beef (20% percent fat)
4 potato rolls
½ head of iceberg lettuce, leaves separated, torn into pieces about the size of the buns
1 white onion, very thinly sliced into
rings on a mandoline
4 thin tomato slices (optional)
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
8 slices American cheese

Prepare a grill for high heat. Place a cast-iron griddle, flat side up, on grate; heat until very hot, at least 20 minutes.

Mix together pickles, mayonnaise, ketchup, adobo sauce, and ½ tsp. salt in a medium bowl; set special sauce aside.

Divide beef into eight 3-oz. portions (don’t form into patties). Place 4 portions between 2 sheets of parchment paper, spacing 6" apart, and, using a meat mallet or skillet, firmly smash to create thin patties, about 5" across. Transfer to a baking sheet. Repeat with remaining portions and fresh parchment paper.

Wrap all the buns together in a large sheet of foil to make a packet (this will keep buns soft and from getting too toasted on the grill). Place packet on grate and grill, turning once, until buns are warmed through, about 1 minute. Spread sauce over cut sides of buns. Place 3–4 pieces of lettuce on bottom buns and top each with some onion and a tomato slice, if using.

Drizzle oil over griddle and use paper towels to evenly coat surface. The oil needs to be hot; you should see smoke almost instantly. Season patties lightly with salt. Place 4 on griddle, seasoned side down, and season top sides lightly with salt. Cook, undisturbed, until outer edges are brown and undersides are very crisp, about 2 minutes. Flip and place a slice of cheese on top of each patty. Cook until cheese is melted, about 30 seconds. Transfer patties to buns with toppings, stacking 2 patties on each bun. Repeat with remaining 4 patties, scraping off any cheese stuck to griddle in between batches.

WHIP UP THE COVER

Mix-and-Match Fools

4 SERVINGS Whipping the cream by hand means soft, billowy peaks—just right for folding in macerated berries. If you’d like, hold back a few berries for topping.

WHIPPED CREAM

1 cup chilled heavy cream
1 Tbsp. sugar

1 tsp. vanilla extract Small pinch of kosher salt

MACERATED BERRIES

1 lb. any berries, halved, quartered if large
¼ cup sugar Small pinch of kosher salt

WHIPPED CREAM Using the largest (and widest) whisk you have, beat cream, sugar, vanilla, and salt in a large chilled bowl until soft peaks form, 3–6 minutes, depending on how many breaks you take.

DO AHEAD: Whipped cream can be made 2 hours ahead. Cover and chill. Just before serving, whisk cream once or twice to refluff, but don’t overwhip it.

BERRIES AND ASSEMBLY Combine berries, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Let sit, tossing occasionally, until juicy, at least 15 minutes.

Add berries to whipped cream and fold gently until mixture is streaky but barely combined (just one or two strokes should do it). Scoop into small glasses.

DO AHEAD: Berries can be macerated 2 hours ahead. Leave at room temperature.

Peak-Season Slushies

MAKES 4 Think of this versatile fruit beverage as your base—then get creative. Try blending 2 tsp. mild red pepper flakes with mango, 1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled ginger with pineapple, or half a cucumber and some mint leaves with honeydew.

4 cups 1"-pieces fruit (such as mango, pineapple, watermelon, or honeydew), frozen
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
½ tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. (or more) agave nectar or 1 Tbsp. honey or pure maple syrup
2–3 cups coconut water or water

Blend fruit, lime juice, salt, agave, 2 cups coconut water, and 2 cups ice in a blender on high, adding more coconut water as needed, until very smooth. Taste slushy and add more agave if desired. Divide among glasses.

Any Way Niçoise

6–8 SERVINGS Switch this up to suit your preferences, but try to always include a mix of cooked and raw vegetables for the best textures.

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. honey
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
6 large eggs
1 lb. green beans, trimmed; asparagus, trimmed; and/or new or baby potatoes, halved if larger
4 cups halved or sliced radishes, seedless cucumbers, fennel, and/or tomatoes
3 cups shredded rotisserie chicken, oil-packed tuna, cooked salmon or steak, cooked lentils, or canned white beans or chickpeas Olives, capers, peperoncini, pickles, or other pickled-briny ingredients (for serving) Flaky sea salt

Whisk oil, lemon juice, mustard, honey, pepper, and 1 tsp. kosher salt in a medium bowl; set dressing aside.

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Carefully add eggs and cook 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water (keep pot over high heat); chill until cold, about 5 minutes. Peel; set aside.

Meanwhile, add green beans, asparagus, or potatoes to the same pot of boiling water and cook until just tender (if you are using a combination, cook vegetables separately), 2–4 minutes for green beans or asparagus, 10–15 minutes for potatoes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to bowl of ice water; let sit until cold, about 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels; pat dry.

To serve, slice eggs in half and arrange on a platter with cooked and raw vegetables and protein. Top with pickled-briny ingredient(s), sprinkle with sea salt, and drizzle some reserved dressing over. Serve with remaining dressing alongside.

DO AHEAD: Dressing can be made 5 days ahead; cover and chill. Eggs can be boiled and vegetables blanched 2 days ahead; cover and chill separately.

The Only Salsa You Need

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Pico de gallo, but make it roasted.

2 lb. tomatoes, cored, cut in half crosswise
1 medium white onion, sliced into ¼"-thick rounds
3 serrano chiles
3 garlic cloves, unpeeled Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp. finely chopped cilantro
Tortilla chips (for serving)

Heat broiler. Place tomatoes cut side down on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Fit onion, chiles, and garlic around tomatoes so everything is snug but not overlapping. Broil, turning onion and chiles once, until lightly charred, about 6 minutes for chiles and garlic and 15–18 minutes for tomatoes and onion.

Peel garlic and place in a food processor along with half of the tomatoes. Pulse until very smooth. Add remaining tomatoes and pulse until tomatoes are mostly broken up but mixture still has some texture. Transfer to a medium bowl. Finely chop onion and chiles and mix into purée; season with salt. Let cool. Stir in lime juice and cilantro. Season salsa with more salt if needed. Serve with chips.

Perfect Pesto Pasta

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS Use an olive oil that’s good enough for sipping—there’s a lot of it here.

½ cup pine nuts
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 oz. Parmesan, grated, plus more shaved for serving
6 cups basil leaves (from about 3 bunches)
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
12 oz. dried long pasta
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Preheat oven to 350°. Toast pine nuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 5–7 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and let cool, 5–7 minutes.

Add garlic and grated Parmesan to food processor and pulse until finely ground, about 1 minute. Add basil and, with the motor running, add oil in a slow and steady stream; continue to process until pesto is mostly smooth with just a few flecks of green remaining, about 1 minute. Pulse in 1 tsp. salt.

Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving ½ cup pasta cooking liquid.

Place pesto and butter in a large bowl. Add pasta and ¼ cup pasta cooking liquid. Toss vigorously with tongs, adding more pasta cooking liquid as needed, until pasta is glossy and well coated with sauce. Taste pasta and season with more salt if needed.

Divide pasta among bowls. Top with shaved Parmesan.

DO AHEAD: Pesto can be made 1 day ahead. Pour oil over to cover by ¼" to prevent browning. Press plastic wrap directly against surface and chill.

All Day Every Day Sauce

MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS Once you’ve paired this sauce with all sorts of vegetables and proteins, reinvent it. Try adding chopped toasted nuts, minced tender herbs, spices (such as cumin, turmeric, or coriander), and/or finely chopped dried fruit (like raisins, apricots, and/or dates).

1½ cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. kosher salt

Mix yogurt, lemon juice, and salt in a small bowl to combine. Cover and chill until ready to use.

Universal Marinade

4 SERVINGS Finely grating the aromatics in this Vietnamese-leaning marinade unlocks their flavor without endless chopping.

Vegetable oil (for grill)
2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed, tough outer layers removed
1 serrano chile
3 garlic cloves
1 1" piece ginger, peeled
1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
1¼ lb. boneless short ribs, skinless, boneless chicken thighs, 1"-thick pork chops, or other cuts of steak Kosher salt
2 scallions, thinly sliced
½ cup cilantro leaves with tender stems Sesame seeds and lime wedges (for serving)

Prepare a grill for high indirect heat (for a gas grill, leave one or two burners off; for a charcoal grill, bank coals on one side); oil grate. Using a Microplane, finely grate lemongrass, chile (seeds and all!), garlic, and ginger into a medium bowl. (Alternatively, you can chop very finely, then mash to a paste using the side of your knife.) Add brown sugar, oil, fish sauce, and soy sauce and mix well.

Season meat with salt and add to bowl. Turn as needed to coat completely. Let sit at least 10 minutes and up to 2 hours. (If marinating longer, wait to fire up the grill.)

Grill meat over hottest part of grill, moving to cooler zone as needed if browning too fast, until well browned, about 5 minutes per side (depending on protein). Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes before slicing.

Transfer meat to a platter and top with scallions and cilantro and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.

Salt-and-Squeeze Slaw

4 SERVINGS If you make this slaw ahead, the vegetables will continue to soften as they sit and become more like pickles, which isn’t a bad thing at all.

6 cups thinly shaved or sliced vegetables (such as cabbage, cucumbers, and/or radishes)
¼ red or white onion, very thinly sliced Kosher salt
¼ cup seasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Combine vegetables and onion in a medium bowl; season generously with salt. Let sit until they start to release their water, 8–10 minutes, then begin to massage, gently at first so they don’t break, then harder as they begin to expel their liquid, until softened to about the texture of coleslaw. Pour off all excess liquid and add vinegar and oil; toss to coat. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

DO AHEAD: Slaw can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Smash Burger Alfresco

4 SERVINGS We found that a three-ounce patty hits the sweet spot: big enough to fill out the bun when smashed but small enough that two patties aren’t overkill.

1 cup finely chopped dill pickles
½ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. ketchup
2 Tbsp. sauce from a can of chipotles in adobo
½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1½ lb. ground beef (20% percent fat)
4 potato rolls
½ head of iceberg lettuce, leaves separated, torn into pieces about the size of the buns
1 white onion, very thinly sliced into
rings on a mandoline
4 thin tomato slices (optional)
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
8 slices American cheese

Prepare a grill for high heat. Place a cast-iron griddle, flat side up, on grate; heat until very hot, at least 20 minutes.

Mix together pickles, mayonnaise, ketchup, adobo sauce, and ½ tsp. salt in a medium bowl; set special sauce aside.

Divide beef into eight 3-oz. portions (don’t form into patties). Place 4 portions between 2 sheets of parchment paper, spacing 6" apart, and, using a meat mallet or skillet, firmly smash to create thin patties, about 5" across. Transfer to a baking sheet. Repeat with remaining portions and fresh parchment paper.

Wrap all the buns together in a large sheet of foil to make a packet (this will keep buns soft and from getting too toasted on the grill). Place packet on grate and grill, turning once, until buns are warmed through, about 1 minute. Spread sauce over cut sides of buns. Place 3–4 pieces of lettuce on bottom buns and top each with some onion and a tomato slice, if using.

Drizzle oil over griddle and use paper towels to evenly coat surface. The oil needs to be hot; you should see smoke almost instantly. Season patties lightly with salt. Place 4 on griddle, seasoned side down, and season top sides lightly with salt. Cook, undisturbed, until outer edges are brown and undersides are very crisp, about 2 minutes. Flip and place a slice of cheese on top of each patty. Cook until cheese is melted, about 30 seconds. Transfer patties to buns with toppings, stacking 2 patties on each bun. Repeat with remaining 4 patties, scraping off any cheese stuck to griddle in between batches.

WHIP UP THE COVER

Mix-and-Match Fools

4 SERVINGS Whipping the cream by hand means soft, billowy peaks—just right for folding in macerated berries. If you’d like, hold back a few berries for topping.

WHIPPED CREAM

1 cup chilled heavy cream
1 Tbsp. sugar

1 tsp. vanilla extract Small pinch of kosher salt

MACERATED BERRIES

1 lb. any berries, halved, quartered if large
¼ cup sugar Small pinch of kosher salt

WHIPPED CREAM Using the largest (and widest) whisk you have, beat cream, sugar, vanilla, and salt in a large chilled bowl until soft peaks form, 3–6 minutes, depending on how many breaks you take.

DO AHEAD: Whipped cream can be made 2 hours ahead. Cover and chill. Just before serving, whisk cream once or twice to refluff, but don’t overwhip it.

BERRIES AND ASSEMBLY Combine berries, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Let sit, tossing occasionally, until juicy, at least 15 minutes.

Add berries to whipped cream and fold gently until mixture is streaky but barely combined (just one or two strokes should do it). Scoop into small glasses.

DO AHEAD: Berries can be macerated 2 hours ahead. Leave at room temperature.

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