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Lonely Planet Magazine IndiaLonely Planet Magazine India

Lonely Planet Magazine India November 2018

The world’s most trusted source on travel, Lonely Planet has made its way to India. Through vivid writing and stunning color spreads from celebrated and seasoned traveller-writers and photographers, Lonely Planet Magazine India Inspires travelers to sample different cultures first-hand, discover new people, and learn fascinating stories about every place.

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12 Utgaver


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right now: where’s your passport?

We’ve learned as travellers to seize the opportunity of a day somewhere close to the weekend to sally out on a last-minute trip, to brave the boss and ask for a day’s leave here and there, to justify to ourselves why this chance must not be missed. All because the world is out there waiting to be explored. How great is it, then, that the Indian passport now works in favour of these forays! There are countries out there ready to welcome us with e-visas, visas on arrival, or no visas at all. Last issue, Aurelia and Krishna drove into Bhutan from Bagdogra in West Bengal, receiving their entry permits in Phuentsholing. This issue, we have features on Jordan and Central Thailand, both countries that offer Indians a visa on…

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escape the grind!

Out of DELHI (530km) Eat your way through Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh The former capital of the Awadh empire has a food culture that matches its illustrious past and ensures that you will be eating like a nawab. It is fitting, therefore, that you start your day with an early breakfast of nalli nihari at the renowned Rahim’s. Follow it up with a decadent lunch at Idris Biryani. If you love chaat, there’s Royal Café in Hazratganj. Take along two people with larger-than-usual appetites and call for the famed basket chaat. A food trail of the city of nawabs is not complete without dropping by its oldest mithai shop, 200-year-old Ram Asrey, and calling for malai paan. And, before heading back home, you must stop by the busy lanes of Aminabad. In the…

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trek up to vasota fort, satara, maharashtra

Out of Mumbai (289km) The rains are gone (we all hope) and the winter sun is out, making the weather just right for a trekking escapade to the mighty Western Sahyadris. Venturing into the woods of the lesser-known Koyna Wildlife Sanctuary to arrive at the ancient Vasota Fort mandates a boat ride across the Koyna River and, then, a challenging trek up to the battle fort that once belonged to Chhatrapati Shivaji. It isn’t the easiest journey but one that’s absolutely worth all the effort. Located on a remote outpost of the sanctuary, Vasota Fort, in addition to making for a great trek, offers the perfect setting for lazy afternoons spent picnicking and doing almost absolutely nothing. Surrounded by steep hills, the fort is accessible only by water. Your weekend adventure, therefore,…

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eat (something different) in north goa

Out of Mumbai (590km) Imagine a roundel of delicately-charred blue cheese lying in wait on a bed of the crispest salad greens, dotted with the crunch of walnuts and the satisfying toothiness of dried figs recently resuscitated by red wine. You’re in an esoteric space, brick walls interspersed with hanging horizontal slats and PVC pipes artfully repurposed as light wands. It seems almost impossible that, in a little corner of Calangute, in a former art gallery (aha, that explains so much!), you will find dishes like the Warm Danish Blue Cheese Cloud, the Marinated Crab Cakes (to be eaten before the blue cheese, please), and Beef Wellington in its jacket of pastry. Chef Sumera Bhalla of Amavi by Sumera relies only on word of mouth to get people to her little…

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the scottish kilt

DESPITE SUGGESTIONS to the contrary in Braveheart, the kilt is not the timeless, ancestral dress of all Scotsmen. Before it was enshrined as part of Scottish national dress in the 19th century, it divided opinion across the country. The majority Lowland population tended to think of it as barbaric, calling its bare-legged wearers ‘redshanks’, while Highlanders in turn, saw trousers as ‘unmanly’. The wearing of kilts in Scotland was banned after the Jacobite rebellion of 1745; until the ban was lifted later that century, the penalty was six months’ imprisonment if caught, while repeat offenders would get seven years’ transportation to the colonies. The kilt’s return to official favour came in 1822, when King George IV paid the first visit to Scotland by a reigning British monarch in almost two centuries.…

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kilts: check them out

See how this key piece of national dress is made at Highland House of Fraser in Inverness, where a band of merry kiltmakers stitch, pleat and press tartan (www.highlandhouseoffraser.com). Order yourself a bespoke kilt at 21st Century Kilts in Edinburgh, where textile options controversially include leather, denim, pinstripe and camo print (www.21stcenturykilts.com). Kilts get put through their paces in events as varied as piping, tug-of-war and tossing the caber at the Argyllshire Gathering (Oban Games) in August (www.shga.co.uk).…