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Lonely Planet Magazine IndiaLonely Planet Magazine India

Lonely Planet Magazine India June 2019

The world’s most trusted source on travel, Lonely Planet has made its way to India. Through vivid writing and stunning color spreads from celebrated and seasoned traveller-writers and photographers, Lonely Planet Magazine India Inspires travelers to sample different cultures first-hand, discover new people, and learn fascinating stories about every place.

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12 Utgaver


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leh of the land

NESTLED WITHIN THE SPECTACULAR MOUNTAIN RANGES of the Himalayas and dotted with monasteries and brick houses, Leh is always easy to fall in love with – but never more so than when the rain pours down over the rest of India. There are a lot of reasons why Leh is great this time of year, among them white-water rafting on the Indus and the Zanskar Rivers, and trekking the popular trails (choose from the Phey-Nimo route, the Kharu-Spituk route, or the Upshi-Kharu route). Culture vultures will be thrilled with the line-up of festivals – this month brings the iconic Hemis Festival, celebrating the birth of Guru Padmasambhava, founder of Tibetan Buddhism. In July, catch the colourful Karsha Gustor Festival, held at Karsha Gustor monastery, the Zanskar Valley’s largest, which celebrates the…

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pheni , odisha

ODIA SWEETS ARE RICH, DECADENT seriously calorific and very hard to resist – the pheni is no exception. Golden, flaky layers fashioned out of flour and generous amounts of ghee, and then dunked in a sticky, sugar syrup – the perfect pheni has a gorgeous, golden sheen and packs a crunch so good you can see, hear and taste it at first bite. The sweet, sometimes referred to as khaja (though khaja can be of different varieties), has great religious and historical significance in the state of Odisha. Lord Jagannath, in the iconic temple in Puri, is served 56 varieties of bhog or mahaprasad – one category is called nirmalya (dry prasad), a vital constituent of which is the pheni. While the traditional recipe uses rich, dense ghee to knead the dough, oil…

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rio life

I FIRST WENT TO RIO DE JANEIRO for the World Cup four years ago, with my husband and a bunch of friends. We absolutely fell in love with the city, so much so that we ended up impulsively buying an old, ramshackle house in the same neighbourhood that had got us hooked in the first place: Santa Teresa. High up in the hills with breathtaking views over the rest of the city, it was once an area where the wealthy built their mansions. It’s still full of crumbling colonial properties with ornate façades and romantic balconies. These days, it’s also a haven for the city’s artist types. It’s Rio’s bohemian quarter. It has taken us a good few years to renovate the house, and, over that time, I’ve learnt so much…

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A riverside location is a must when choosing a Bangkok hotel, and the Chatrium Riverside comes with the bonus of sky-high views from its 36 floors. Rooms are more like mini-apartments – many come with second bedrooms and kitchens, not to mention wraparound views over the city. Don’t miss a dip in the impressive infinity pool (above) overlooking the Chao Phraya (www.chatrium.com; from ₹ 5,900). Scheduled ferries run regularly along the river, stopping at most tourist sites. Hiring your own long-tail boat costs from ₹ 1,900 per hour, and can be arranged at one of the main commuter jetties.…

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The attractive bungalows at Fern Resort are built on stilts alongside a plantation of rice terraces, surrounded by groves of palm, banana and papaya trees. All come with air-con and their own private veranda, and the resort also has its own restaurant serving local northern dishes, as well as a swimming pool under the trees (www.fernresort.info; from ₹ 3200). Various local villages offer homestay programmes where you can stay with a family in their traditional stilt house and share homecooked meals; contact Thailand Hilltribe Holidays (www.thailandhilltribeholidays.com).…

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food and drink in rome, italy

WHY GO? To indulge in and appreciate authentic Italian cuisine WHAT IS THERE TO DO? Lounge all day at a café, dance and drink the night away, and grab the occasional gelato while you’re at it. CAFÉS CAFFETTERIA CHIOSTRO 1 Few cafés are as beautifully sited as this one, located on the first floor of Bramante’s Renaissance cloister. It has outdoor tables and an all-day menu offering cakes and coffee, baguettes and risottos (00-39-06-6880-9035; www.chiostrodelbramante.it, info@chiostrodelbramante.it Via Arco della Pace, 5; 10am – 8pm Mon – Fri, 10am – 9pm Sat – Sun; coffee from ₹ 120). I DOLCI DI NONNA VINCENZA 2 Bringing the flavours of Sicily to Rome, this pastry shop is a real joy. Browse the cakes and dolci (sweetpastries) in the old wooden dressers before adjourning to the bar to tear into the selection…