National Geographic Traveller Food Winter 2021

Abbie Kozolchyk As a child whose idea of a delicacy was supermarket junk food, I failed to notice my hometown, Tucson, was a culinary gold mine. Not until I’d moved away from Arizona — and UNESCO named it the US’s first City of Gastronomy — did I begin to suspect what I’d missed. Exploring the local Mexican food for this story left no further doubt. TUCSON, P 78 Sarah Shaffi Community is at the centre of food for me; I grew up cooking Pakistani recipes that had been handed down through the generations, and giving them a twist. It was great to hear about Icelandic chef Gísli Matt doing something similar, but with ingredients, methods and a cuisine that’s new to me. BOOKS, P 122 Ben Olsen It’s hard not to be awed by Ireland’s…

When it comes to winter, it’s all about your approach. Sure, there are those who think of it as simply Christmas, followed by the two darkest months in the calendar — a burst of excitement, succeeded by a period of treading water. But there are also those of us who view it through the glorious prism of food, as a time of comfort, creativity and indulgence. From Nisha Katona to Richard Corrigan to Tom Kerridge, the chefs and writers who’ve contributed to our cover story have something in common: an unbridled passion for the colder months and the gastronomic opportunities they bring. In part, they’re tapping into the pleasures of seasonality and the joys of wintry ingredients such as parsnips, beetroots, Jerusalem artichokes, game, quince and Seville oranges. And partly, it’s those…

Visitors to Spain and Portugal may have noticed the reverence with which the locals treat tinned fish. With their artistic packaging, Iberian ‘conserva’ brands are even part of the tourist experience, whether they’re being bought as souvenirs in Lisbon’s Conserveira de Lisboa or transformed into tapas at bars such as Barcelona’s Quimet & Quimet. It’s a passion not historically shared by UK diners, who are inclined to regard tins of tuna or sardines as a convenience rather than a gourmet ingredient. Chef-restaurateur Mitch Tonks, of Rockfish, is hoping to alter this perception with his new tinned seafood range, sourced entirely from the waters of England’s south coast. Available nationwide (excluding the Scottish Highlands), it includes Mount’s Bay sardines in chilli; Lyme Bay mussels; and Brixham cuttlefish (therockfish.co.uk). “Everyone should be enjoying tinned…

1 HAKARIME ANAGO While saltwater conger eel, or anago, has been on menus in Tokyo for generations, it’s never achieved the status of its freshwater cousin, unagi. However, with unagi now on Japan’s endangered list, the leaner anago, which can be caught in Tokyo Bay, is steadily growing in popularity. Anago specialist Hakarime, located in the Ginza district, serves the eel in all manner of ways, whether as sashimi, fried up tempura-style, as part of a shabu shabu hotpot or as donburi, where the eel is grilled or simmered and placed atop a bowl of rice. hakarime.business.site 2 THE ALLEY TAPIOCA TEA Imported trends can sometimes be fleeting, but in Tokyo the craze for Taiwanese tapioca tea, or bubble tea, has taken root. There are plenty of options, including teashop chain The Alley,…

1 Burley Fudge Shop, Hampshire Run by husband-and-wife team Chris and Jenny since 1998, this shop in the New Forest has amassed a loyal following. Favourites include white chocolate and raspberry, salted caramel, and clotted cream — although with over 30 flavours available, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Special dietary needs are also catered for, with vegan and low-GI fudge (made using coconut nectar instead of granulated sugar) on the menu. burleyfudge.co.uk 2 Roly’s Fudge Pantry, various locations Roly’s Fudge was established in Torquay in 1987 and now has over 40 shops across the UK. What sets them apart is that the fudge is freshly prepared in full view of customers, who can watch the molten liquid being swirled, stirred and sliced on marble slabs. Unusual flavour combinations include lemon meringue, coffee and…

TRADITION ‘Gua bao’ is a Taiwanese phrase that translates as ‘cut bun’. When steamed and filled, each bun symbolises a full purse, so businesses in Taiwan usually celebrate the end of the lunar year with platters of gua bao as a way to usher in prosperity for the coming year. FLOUR You can use plain flour, but the bao will turn out slightly denser or bouncier, and won’t be as white as those made using Chinese low-protein flour. Specialist Asian supermarkets sell bao flour; the best has a protein level of 7-8%. Alternatively, try a mix of plain flour and cake flour. FILLING Traditionally, gua bao are filled with slow-braised pork, fermented mustard greens, coriander and ground peanuts — the only real option is whether you go for fatty or lean meat. However, other fillings,…