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Wanderlust September 2019

Interview with Alice Morrison “The writer, TV presenter and adventurer’s new book sees her starting over in Morocco –she talks breaking barriers, Bogart fantasies and life on the outside…” Ruaha National Park, Tanzania Tanzania’s Ruaha National Park is wild, remote and little-known – and while a tiny fraction of visitors find their way here, East Africa’s greatest secret may not remain hidden for much longer… Peru From Amazonian lowlands to Andean highs, Peru is a land of pre-Columbian treasures, soaring condors and miraculous landscapes – plan your perfect trip with our handy guide… Cuba Revolutionary relics, sweeping valleys and colonial towns – riding Cuba on two wheels puts its slow wonders on full show, and now anyone can do it… with a little electric help Manatees in Florida Welcome to the real Magic Kingdom. Never mind Mickey Mouse, Florida’s true celebrity critters are found in the depths of the Crystal River… 9 other amazing swims with wildlife It’s not just manatees – there’s a whole world of marine life you can swim with. So strap on a snorkel or a scuba tank and dive into our top watery encounters… Plastic, no longer fantastic We’re all looking to use less plastic, but often the choice is taken out of our hands when we travel. Here’s how to get back control and do some good… Mark Stratton goes to Liberia Liberia’s coastline hides some of the most spectacular stretches of sand on the planet, let alone West Africa. But can it overcome a traumatic past to attract the travellers it deserves – and needs? WIN… … Two Exped SynMats & Air Pillows, worth over £350, and two waterproof Ortlieb backpacks worth £370 Plus… First 24 hours in Johannesburg; A British break in Cleveland Way; Spanish cuisine; Wandersleeps in UK treehouses; The Maldives vs the Seychelles; Go now, Corsica; Dream sleeps at Kachi Lodge, Bolivia; How to luggage safe and lots, lots more…

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Trains, you’ve got to love them. No, not packed commuter trains, but the civilised ones which give you a true slow travel experience, letting you absorb your surroundings and wonder at the little vignettes of life you pass. Read our European rail journeys round-up on page 60 and I defy you not to be inspired to go jump on one of them as soon as possible. We experience slow travel too in the timeless Isles of Scilly (p96), take a walk on the wild (dog) side in Zimbabwe (p46) and hike the remote villages and lakes of Guatemala (p80). Don’t forget to enter our Travel Photo of the Year competition (p122) – you could win an amazing trip to Texas. And talking of awards, Wanderlust has just picked up yet another trophy…

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Sue Watt Zimbabwe feature Wildlife conservation has always fascinated travel writer Sue. In this issue, she fulfilled a 16-year-long dream – spying the bold and beautiful painted wolves of Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools NP (p46). My first great rail trip: “Zimbabwe’s Stimela Star, a restored vintage train running overnight from Victoria Falls to Hwange NP. It’s not luxury, but it’s fun, with bags of character. It’s a brilliant way to start a safari.” Nicholas Dyer Zimbabwe feature Wildlife photographer Nick’s address is often ‘A Tent Somewhere in Africa’ – but his passion lies in capturing the character of Mana Pools NP’s painted wolves (p46). My first great rail trip: “The Lunatic Express – a nocturnal adventure from Nairobi to Mombasa in run-down luxury. It ends as the languid locomotive greets the African dawn, while antelope look on with ambiguous interest.” Alastair…

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the wanderlust philosophy

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do. Website Discover more great content at Twitter Catch up on the latest travel gossip @wanderlustmag Instagram See behind the scenes @wanderlustmag Facebook Join the chat at magazine Newsletter Sign up to our newsletter for offers, inspiration and all the latest travel news at Subscribe Take advantage of our latest online offer on…

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In memory of Co-founder & Publisher Paul Morrison EDITORIAL CONTENT Editor-in-Chief & Co-founder Lyn Hughes Technology Director Simon Chubb Managing Editor Tom Hawker Assistant Editor Zara Gaspar Sub-Editor/Writer Gareth Clark (Goodbye, good luck!) Commercial Editor Olivia Lee Digital Editor Elizabeth Atkin Editorial Assistant Kirtey Verma Associate Web Editor Peter Moore Assistant Content Editor Rosie Fitzgerald Digital Executive Nora Wallaya Contributing Editors Phoebe Smith, Mark Carwardine, Paul Goldstein & William Gray DESIGN Art Director Graham Berridge Art Editor Mike Wright PRODUCTION Production Director Justin Masters Production Manager Paul Lincoln ADVERTISING Commercial Manager Adam Lloyds ( Media Specialist Simon Bryson Media Specialist Anthony Bennett Senior Sales Executive Lucy Bairstow South East Europe Representative Genc Rodiqi ( PUBLISHING Managing Director Tilly McAuliffe Commercial Director Ian McAuliffe Director Wanderlust Studio John Innes Publishing Director Catriona Bolger Senior Brand Marketing Executive Fanny Moros ACCOUNTS & ADMIN Finance Director Nicola Solomon Assistant Financial Controller Lisa Healy Accounts Assistant Kym Williams Office Manager Janine Plunkett (maternity) ASSISTED THIS ISSUE Dean Agius, Lorna Cowan, Nick Funnell,…

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Walk in the park Canyonlands National Park, Utah, USA Photographer: Michele Falzone Sheer sandstone cliffs and burnt-orange terrain light up the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands NP, but it’s the trek to the top of its Mesa Arch at sunrise that is truly unforgettable. Arrive just before dawn, then wait for the first few rays to strike the underside of the arch for a spectacle that will live long in the memory. © Michele Falzone/AWL Images “Wilderness is not a place of isolation but contemplation. Refuge.”Terry Tempest Williams, author and activist Getting a leg up Inle Lake, Burma (Myanmar) Photographer: Alex Treadway Reed beds and floating plants make for tricky navigation, but Burmese fishermen have the perfect solution to sculling the waters of Inle Lake. Paddling past stilted houses and water gardens on slender teak canoes, they…

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your letters

Star letter A welcome discovery On one of my first visits to Vancouver, British Columbia, in 2017, a colleague suggested I join her in climbing Grouse Mountain (1,250m). She’d never done it but assured me it “couldn’t be that hard”. So, off we went, unprepared, and found it really did live up to its reputation as ‘Mother Nature’s Stairmaster’. We struggled up – jet-lagged – in the wrong kind of footwear and without enough water, and I promised myself I’d never endure that again. Two years later, I did do it again and even shaved 20 minutes off my time. The views and activities at the top are worth every second, and you don’t have to be an avid hiker to do it. I’m living proof, and you won’t regret it –…