EXPLOREMY LIBRARY
Food & Wine
Decanter

Decanter May 2020

Published by TI Media Limited The world’s best wine magazine. It is simply the “wine bible”. Every month it provides recommendations on the world’s finest wines and tells you where you can find them. From top Bordeaux to the best value wine on the shelf, Decanter guides you through a maze of wine to help you find the right wine for you. It also offers interviews with leading wine personalities, in-depth guides to the wine regions and the latest wine news.

Country:
United Kingdom
Language:
English
Publisher:
TI-Media
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12 Issues

in this issue

1 min.
the art of wine

A rooster’s tale Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy The guardian of the town of Gaiole is a black rooster – gallo nero – crafted in iron by local artisan Fabio Zacchei. The avian sculpture serves as a reminder of Chianti’s ancient roots: legend has it that the crow of such a bird helped Florence to triumph in its long-running territorial dispute with neighbouring Siena over control of the wine region. Today, the Chianti Classico consorzio sports the gallo nero as its symbol in honour of the larger-than-life story. Photograph: Manfred Gottschalk/Alamy Stock Photo…

5 min.
month in wine

Covid-19 disrupts major wine events Concerns about the spread of the novel coronavirus have hit major events in the global wine calendar, with trade fairs and consumer events globally being cancelled or postponed. In France, both the biennial Burgundy wine festival Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne and Bordeaux en primeur week (first taste of the 2019s) were called off in March amid growing restrictions on public gatherings. ‘We cannot today guarantee favourable health and safety conditions for visitors and exhibitors,’ said Raphaël Dubois, association president for Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne. En primeur organiser Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) attempted to reassure merchants via email that it is ‘working on solutions that will allow us to taste the 2019 vintage at a later date’. Germany’s ProWein, the wine world’s largest trade show,…

1 min.
in brief

As Decanter went to press, we learned of the death of Michael Broadbent, aged 92. One of the wine world’s most famous names, Michael was a long-time friend of Decanter, and author of our longest-running column, with 433 published over five decades. Multi-award winning author, he also founded and headed up the Christie’s Wine Department. Full obituary and tributes to follow next month. Hemp-infused wine producer Sovereign Vines has announced that it will close due to intervention from US regulators. It stated that, ‘regardless of the fact our wine has no cannabinoids’, federal officials refused to accept its New York State permit to produce the wine. The brand appealed, but said that the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) ‘does not intend to allow hemp extracts in beverages’. Thieves have stolen…

2 min.
your letters

Delighted to read that Bob Bob Cité in London has capped the margin on fine wines to a £75 maximum – it should be applauded. I have never understood why a bottle of wine needs a 300%-500% mark-up from its retail price, when shelf life can be decades. A dozen Dover soles if not sold in a few days are worthless, but the same time pressures do not apply to wine, especially claret. I do hope more restaurants follow suit. Consumption, and turnover, will increase, and diners will be able to try wines previously considered way over budget. J Tebbutt, by email Time to sit back... While COVID-19 dominates the news, it can be frustrating to accept that we can’t really do anything as individuals – other than protect ourselves. For a while…

1 min.
the pain of mark-ups

I have a budget of £50-£60 when buying restaurant wine. Disappointingly, I know that if I bought the same wine from a retailer it would probably cost around £10-£15. A recent trip to a Michelin-starred Lake District restaurant brought home to me, yet again, the inflated price of restaurant wine. Rather than choose the taster menu wine pairing, I followed Steven Spurrier’s mantra, ‘drink for mood, not for food’, and opted for what turned out to be a very mediocre 2013 Tasmanian Pinot Noir, at £75; at this price, who wouldn’t expect better! Now before all you restaurant proprietors start screaming about profit margins, staff wages, building a cellar and so on, juxtapose my comments above with my experience last year in San Sebastián, one of the great gastronomic cities of the…

5 min.
steven spurrier

Chapter 7 in my memoirs, Wine – a Way of Life, carries the title ‘Bonjour Paris’ and Chapter 12, set 19 years later, is titled ‘Au Revoir Paris’. My commercial life in Paris had been very up in the 1970s and progressively down in the ’80s, so, returning in straitened circumstances to London in 1990 to look for employment in a city from which I had essentially been absent for two decades, Chapter 13 is inevitably titled ‘The Road Back’– the shortest in the book, followed by ‘Life with Decanter’, which is the longest. I knew Decanter well as a magazine. The first edition in June 1975 for the modest price of 40p had a cover line: ‘How to buy good Bordeaux and keep your bank manager happy’ and an inside…