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Gourmet Traveller

Gourmet Traveller January 2018

Each issue is packed with great dish ideas, hot restaurants and bars, entertaining tips, the best hotels and lavish spreads on some of the world’s most intoxicating travel destinations - everything you should expect from the Australia's premier food and travel magazine.

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Are Media Pty Limited
12 Issues

in this issue

1 min.
editor’s letter

In a small pocket of Melbourne, 26 January is no longer Australia Day. The City of Yarra Council voted that in 2018 it would replace the traditional celebrations with an event marking the loss of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander culture. I’m on board with Yarra. It feels spectacularly tone deaf to celebrate a day that marks the loss of rights, land, family and culture for the traditional owners of our land. There’s plenty to celebrate about being Australian, but as many of us immigrants have now realised, it’s just not the right day to do it. As the Change the Date campaign gains momentum, January now tends to kick off debate about nationalism and nationhood and the appropriate way to mark the arrival of Captain Arthur Phillip on the shores of…

1 min.
where we’ve been

Kendall Hill, senior writer; La Camargue, France I visited Les Marquises ranch in the Camargue where “cowboys” (gardians in Provençal) still raise horses that are dark in adolescence, white in adulthood, but beautiful at any age. @misterkendallhill Harriet Davidson, editorial coordinator; Mollymook, NSW Best favour asked of me this year? To drive my parents’ MG up the South Coast from Mollymook to Sydney. Pit stops included vineyards with live music and white-sand beaches. @harriet.olive Emma Breheny, digital writer; Margaret River, WA I experienced the whirlwind of Margaret River Gourmet Escape in November, meeting wine writer Jancis Robinson and chef Alex Atala, taking in the scenery (from a helicopter, no less) and, of course, eating lots of marron. @breheny…

1 min.

TIM HAYWARD, WRITER Top-drawer tools, p84 “I’m a little more obsessive about kitchens than most,” says British writer, broadcaster and restaurateur Tim Hayward. “For me, it’s not just where I eat and cook but also a place of work – a study, laboratory and studio.” In this issue, Hayward reveals the unexpected origin stories of everyday items lingering in the back of your pantry in an extract from his book, The Modern Kitchen: Objects That Changed the Way We Cook, Eat and Live. ANDY RICKER, CHEF Firewater and spice, p132 Chef-owner of the Pok Pok Thai restaurants, Andy Ricker is one of the leading experts on Thai food in the US. His new book, The Drinking Food of Thailand, is featured in this issue. Drinking in Thailand, he says, granted him insight he wouldn’t otherwise…

1 min.
what we’re eating

FISH AND CHIPS, Port Admiral Hotel The rejuvenated Port Admiral Hotel in Port Adelaide needs quality seafood anchoring its menu. Or so goes the thinking of chef Stewart Wesson and the hospitality heavyweights who drove the refurb, including the team behind Adelaide bars Clever Little Tailor and Pink Moon Saloon. Wesson’s fish and chips is a star: plump local fillets that change based on what’s caught, thick-cut chips and mayo. Ideally suited to a house lager from Pirate Life. Port Admiral Hotel, 55 Commercial Rd, Port Adelaide SA. DAVID SLY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA EDITOR BABY GREENLIP ABALONE, CUCUMBER AND CRACKLING, St Isidore Make sure your plans for the south coast of New South Wales include a bite at St Isidore – it’s in fine form. This mingling of elegantly handled textures and deftly tweaked flavours…

3 min.
the cold truth

For Dan Yee and Shoji Sasa of Artificer Specialty Coffee Bar & Roastery in Sydney’s Surry Hills, cold coffee appreciation has come a long way. Yee started bottling brews back in 2012, and now, in peak season, the coffee trade in their café hits nearly 50-50 hot to cold. You may have had an espresso topped up with cold milk – and Yee and Sasa pour plenty of iced lattes – but for coffee that starts and ends cold, that’s lighter and more subtle than coffee made hot, there are two main techniques: cold brew or cold drip. “Cold brew is an immersion method,” says Yee. “Think of a big, cold tea bag. With cold drip, water drops over a bed of coffee, and works its way through a filter.” Both versions are…

2 min.
pump class

Pumphouse Point is about as secluded as lodges come: just 19 rooms in an unused hydroelectric pumphouse, on the shore of misty Lake St Clair, in the middle of Tasmania. But the Pumphouse’s new hideaway for two is even more private. Located about 20 metres from the lodge’s Shorehouse, The Retreat is hidden in bush fringing the lake and is accessed via a “burrow”, an effect created by a retaining wall set below the treeline. “The feeling you get walking down to The Retreat is one of curiosity,” says Pumphouse Point’s owner and nature-tourism entrepreneur Simon Currant. “Then, ascending the stairs, all is revealed.” Clad in silvertop ash, the hideaway has an outdoor stone bath for stargazing and another inside. A “midnight snack” button lights a path from the king bed to a…