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Gourmet Traveller

Gourmet Traveller September 2019

Each issue is packed with great dish ideas, hot restaurants and bars, entertaining tips, the best hotels and lavish spreads on some of the world’s most intoxicating travel destinations - everything you should expect from the Australia's premier food and travel magazine.

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12 Issues

in this issue

1 min.
editor’s letter

The term “fine dining” still suffers from the notion that it can be a bit stiff and stuffy. But Australia’s modern fine diners are anything but. Instead they’re hotbeds of creativity, wit, humour and playfulness, where dinner is as much performance as it is dinner. They’ve become more fun. At Attica, in Melbourne’s Ripponlea, Ben Shewry tells the history of the surrounding area through the medium of three small tarts, serves finger-lickin’ crocodile ribs and hauls his customers into the backyard so they can chat with the chefs over billy tea or while toasting marshmallows over an open fire. This breaking down of the old expectations of fine dining is one of the reasons we love it and why we’ve awarded Shewry and his team Gourmet Traveller’s 2020 Restaurant of the…

1 min.
where we’ve been

Bokenäs, Sweden; Harriet Davidson, writer & editorial coordinator A week on Sweden’s west coast saw not much more than foraging for berries, reading on sun-drenched cliffs and eating shrimp sandwiches. Bliss. @harriet.olive Vomo Island, Fiji; Yvonne C Lam, digital editor This luxe resort has all the makings of a tropical holiday: coconuts, snorkelling, sunsets on the beach. I made every second count. @blurry.food National Gallery of Australia, Canberra; Laura Jacobs, art director Haystacks, waterlilies and Parisian street scenes – the curation of the Monet: Impression Sunrise exhibition is concise but impressive, and worth the road trip to the nation’s capital. @laurajanejacobs…

2 min.

PATRICIA MAUNDER writer Montreal city hitlist, p162 Patricia Maunder moved to Montreal in 2012 to experience life in another city and “improve my bad French”. Although the last part of the plan didn’t go so well, she returned to Melbourne after four years with a passion for Canada’s bilingual metropolis. In this month’s hitlist, she describes the places and experiences that triggered her love affair. “If there’s one thing that defines my other hometown, it’s surely joie de vivre.” IVAN ORKIN chef Outside in, p132 Ivan Orkin is the author of Ivan Ramen and a star of Chef’s Table and Mind of a Chef. He owns Ivan Ramen and Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop in New York, where the food is “so good it makes your eyes explode”. His new book, The Gaijin Cookbook takes a…

1 min.
what we’re eating

CABBAGE PANCAKE WITH BROCCOLI, GOAT’S CHEESE AND SOFT EGG, Sourced There are comforting, robustly flavoured brunch dishes – and then there’s Sourced’s okonomiyaki-style cabbage pancake. It’s topped with an overlay of crisp caramelised broccoli florets and tangy goat’s cheese, with a soft-poached egg concealed at its centre. The answer when too many greens aren’t quite enough. 11 Florence St, Teneriffe, Qld. FIONA DONNELLY, QUEENSLAND EDITOR KINOKO SPAGHETTI, Pasta Wafu At this kiosk, the kinoko spaghetti is heavily accessorised with Japanese flavours. Chefs Kerby Craig and Hamish Ingham pan-roast mushrooms in a miso butter, followed by a koji sauce, then top the dish with an onsen egg and a good shake of furikake. The Exchange, Darling Square, 1 Little Pier St, Haymarket, NSW. LEE TRAN LAM, NEWS EDITOR CRAB TOAST, Le Rebelle I‘m not sure how…

2 min.
grillers in the midst

Shawarma. Gyros. Souva. Kebabs. They’re the go-to food for anyone looking for hangover-soothing sustenance and these spit-roasted-meat-plus-bread meals have also been inspiring top chefs. David Chang has added gochujang-spiced pork shoulder and yakitori-glazed chicken on spits at Bang Bar in New York, while René Redzepi’s celeriac shawarma (the showpiece of Noma’s Plant Kingdom menu last year) recently re-appeared in taco form at Copenhagen’s Hija de Sanchez. Locally, Adam Liston has opened JoyBird in Adelaide (see our feature on p114), a tribute to the neighbourhood chicken shop featuring char siu chickens stacked and cooked on a vertical spit, while Smith & Daughters’ Shannon Martinez grilled 80 kilograms of vegan souva for Melbourne’s Laneway Festival in February – and repeated the feat on a smaller scale at Sydney’s Cook For Syria event in…

2 min.
park life

Kenrokuen, Kanazawa, Japan In a nation full of exquisite gardens, this living work of art in the shadow of Kanazawa Castle is regarded as one of Japan’s finest. The name means “garden of the six sublimities”, referring to the principles of Chinese landscape theory (spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, water and views). Started in the mid-17th century and developed over 200 years, this garden is a textbook example of the Chinese ideal, full of artfully planted flowering trees, bridges, water features and teahouses. Villa d’Este, Tivoli, Italy This “giardini delle meraviglie”, or fantasy garden, is a masterpiece of Renaissance design. Commissioned in the 1550s by Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, and designed by Pirro Ligorio, the gardens are a riot of nymphs and grottoes, statues and follies, and are best known for elaborate fountains and…