Outside June/July 2020

Traveling Full Circle The Journeys Issue? Right now? In the midst of a global pandemic? I guess I should explain. The seeds of the travel-themed magazine you’re now holding in your hands, perhaps in latex gloves or after a thorough scrub with a disinfectant wipe, were planted more than two years ago, when senior executive editor Michael Roberts first floated the idea. Every edition of Outside has a travel component, he argued, but how about a whole issue dedicated to the literary side of adventure and exploration? Stories that are less about where to go and which outfitters and hotels to book, and more about exploring the idea of travel itself. An issue full of inspiration, not advice. We all loved the concept, so we began reaching out to writers for surprising…

I’LL BEGIN WITH the story of YS Falls, a set of cascading drops and cool, clear pools set in a Jamaican rainforest. It’s in Saint Elizabeth parish, where for a few years now I’ve been taking my son on vacation. Saint Elizabeth is a beautiful part of the country, far off the beaten path; to reach it from Montego Bay or Kingston takes four or five hours on bad roads. There are few walled resorts here, no package tours of sunburned Americans and Europeans getting drunk at 10 A.M. The people are nice but not too nice; large stretches of the coasts remain undeveloped. I like it because it has yet to be ruined by people like me. According to locals (and TripAdvisor), YS is one of the wonders of Saint…

A. Aether Divide jacket and pants $995 and $695 Aether’s Divide suit looks good but doesn’t sacrifice protection. Zip vents let you dump heat in warm weather, while waterproof pockets keep necessities secure. D3O armor protects areas that are vulnerable in the event of a crash, but is so thin and flexible you won’t know it’s there. B. Leatherman Free P4 multitool $140 With true one-handed access to its 21 tools, this American-made do-it-all device has what you need for most roadside repairs. C. Sierra Designs SummerMoon 2 tent $190 Space is at a premium on a motorcycle. This freestanding tent is easier to pitch and more robust than ultralight alternatives, but still packs down small. D. Racer Mickey gloves $120 In a crash, impacts to your palm can break your wrist. This Austrian brand incorporates palm…

BEST FOR: DAY HIKES Mammut Ducan Spine 35 $240 With a clever weight-distribution system usually reserved for larger touring packs, this three-pound carry-all has patented technology that relieves pressure on shoulders and moves it away from your back for ventilation. Made of durable nylon ripstop fabric, it’s hydration-system compatible and has an anatomically padded hipbelt with easy-access pockets for your gear. BEST FOR: CARRY-ON FLIGHTS Tortuga Outbreaker Laptop $225 The Outbreaker fits under most airplane seats, accommodates two days’ worth of clothes, and has padded pockets for your laptop and tablet. But the details are what make it the ideal weekender: chafe-proof foam in the straps and back panel provide comfort, while the main compartment’s wide opening makes packing easy. We love the durability of the waterproof exterior. BEST FOR: MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES Patagonia Ascensionist 55L $219 Designed for…

A. Adventure Imports Indeflate $170 Deflating your tires increases your contact patch and gives you more grip when driving steep, rough roads or when you’re stuck. This tool deflates (or reinflates) two tires at a time—and does it accurately, with a built-in gauge. B. Falken Wildpeak A/T Trail tires $114 and up If you invest in only one overlanding upgrade, make it your tires. A good set of all-terrains will get you up and down rutted roads and prevent unnecessary flats. The Wildpeak is made specifically for crossover vehicles like the Subaru Outback. C. iKamper Skycamp 2.0 rooftop tent $3,899 Have kids or dogs? Get this tent for the king-size mattress. Setup is simple, and the unit is aerodynamic when collapsed, which saves on gas. D. Yakima LockNLoad rack platform $729 and up Slap a platform on…

When Denver photographer Seth Langbauer traveled to Mongolia’s eastern steppe in 2017, he was fascinated by the local hunting dogs known as taiga dogs. He first encountered the muscular canines, traditionally used by livestock herders, when he saw a demonstration at one of the region’s many horse festivals. “It’s basically a winterized greyhound,” says Langbauer, 27. “They’re quite burly, but still lean and very fast.” Working as a team, the dogs will chase down and kill foxes, rabbits, and even wolves. Overharvesting has long been a problem in the region, but Langbauer says that many of the families he met hunted to survive. The photographer spent more than two weeks traveling throughout the eastern steppe, braving minus-30-degree temperatures to cap-ture the dogs in action. —SOPHIE MURGUIA…