Food & Wine
Bon Appetit

Bon Appetit

November 2020

Bon Appétit focuses on what's "now" in the world of food, drink, and entertaining, while still giving readers valuable cooking tools, tips, and most of all, recipes. This food lifestyle publication looks at life through the lens of food & cooking in, dining out, travel, entertainment, shopping and design.

United States
Conde Nast US
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10 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
an unfamiliar ritual

MY FAMI LY HAS OUR THANKSGIVING system down to a T. Or, I should say, down to the manila folder in which we keep a decade’s worth of menus marked up with quantities and guest lists, keeping tabs on the first dish to go (mac and cheese) and the biggest hits (Dad’s chicken-and-waffles appetizer, Mom’s perfect squash soup). Every year I perform a sleight of hand, making sure we end up with an extra tray of cornbread dressing (p. 73), my favorite, that I can eat for days afterward, sometimes straight from the fridge like a teenager, until it’s gone. My brother mixes cocktails, his girlfriend roasts the turkey, and a family friend always brings the most beautiful carved glass platter decorated artfully with half-moons of winter fruit. Inevitably someone turns…

1 min.
smoked tofu larb with lemongrass

4 SERVINGS ⅓ cup (or more) fresh lime juice¼ cup light soy sauce1 Tbsp. palm or light brown sugar2 tsp. (or more) chile powder1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more¼ cup glutinous rice2 Tbsp. vegetable oil6 small shallots, thinly sliced3–4 lemongrass stalks, bottom third only, tough outer layers removed, finely chopped1½ lb. smoked or firm tofu, drained, cut into ¼" cubes2 Tbsp. black sesame seeds, plus more1¼ cups chopped mixed tender herbs (such as Thai basil and/or mint)Tender lettuce leaves (for serving) 1. Mix lime juice, soy sauce, palm sugar, chile powder, and 1 tsp. salt in a large bowl to combine; set dressing aside. 2. Toast rice in a dry medium skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and nutty-smelling, 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a spice mill and let cool, then coarsely…

3 min.
what does thanks giving look like this year?

Pavochon 8–10 SERVINGS Achiote paste is essential for getting that deep burnished color and extra rich flavor all over the turkey. 1 12–14-lb. whole turkey, neck and giblets removed, patted dry1 lemon, halvedKosher salt, freshly ground pepper3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil3 Tbsp. achiote (annatto) paste2 Tbsp. dried oregano2 Tbsp. granulated garlic2 tsp. ground cumin1 large onion, halved5 garlic cloves2 celery stalks Using your fingers, gently separate skin from breast meat starting at neck. Rub outside of turkey all over with cut sides of lemon; set lemon aside. Season inside and out all over with salt and pepper (be generous with the salt). Rub butter over breast meat underneath skin. Mash oil, achiote paste, oregano, granulated garlic, and cumin in a small bowl to a smooth paste. Rub an even…

3 min.
“there’s no such thing as bland food in a puerto rican household.”

Most everyone in our family had a key to Nana’s house. But it was impossible to sneak in, even when the Sacramento sun was rising and the late November light was still soft—robbin’ hour. As soon as I’d turn the key in the door and push it open a few inches, I could hear her penetrating campo intonation: “illy?” I’d assure her it was me and listen as the melody of her coughs mingled with the creaking of her white enamel bed and then each stair step as she made her way down to the microscopic kitchen. There Nana would open the refrigerator door to reveal the turkey, already on its roasting throne. She’d start her coffee, preheat the oven to 350 degrees (because that’s the chosen Fahrenheit of our ancestors),…

3 min.
“there are no rules when it comes to the meal.”

Thanksgiving is an adopted tradition in our house, so there are no rules when it comes to the meal. We moved to the U.S. from Australia in 2015, and for a year or two we tried the classic turkey-and-veg-sides combination. But as we found our feet as an immigrant family, we realized that these dishes held no historical context, or nostalgia, for us. To suit our mainly vegetarian household, we decided that the sides would become our mains. A huge spinach lasagna, vegan hazelnut-potato gratin, leek bread pudding, and always, always some form of tater tots (it’s the only time of the year my kids are allowed to eat them). While I usually bake them on top of mac and cheese, hot dish style, this year I decided to turn…

5 min.
“i've got big plans to grill as much as i possibly can.”

It’s always been my dream to cook and eat Thanksgiving outdoors. In an ideal world the eating part of the equation would happen in a pool, on a float, in a bikini (I said ideal!). Well, this year it’s finally happening. Since I’ll be isolating in L.A., I’ve got big plans to grill as much as I possibly can. And because I’ll be in a warmer climate, my menu will skew lighter and brighter than usual. A zippy chile-spiked vinegar sauce will replace the classic roux-thickened gravy, which I’ll spoon over my grilled turkey and frankly everything else on the plate, while custardy grilled leeks might just knock mashed potatoes off the table altogether. It’s not the Thanksgiving I could ever have predicted, but I’ll take this as one extremely…