EXPLOREMY LIBRARY
Travel & Outdoor
Conde Nast Traveller UK

Conde Nast Traveller UK Jan/Feb 2020

The essential guide to inspirational travel. Breathtaking locations, stunning photography and independent travel advice make Condé Nast Traveller the authority in its field and the premier lifestyle magazine for people with a passion for travel, adventure, culture and new ideas.

Country:
United Kingdom
Language:
English
Publisher:
Conde Nast Publications Ltd
Frequency:
Monthly
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10 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
the gold list editor’s letter

At dinner the other night, I sat next to one of my heroes. Which always ends badly, as everyone knows. The thing was, I didn’t realise what he looked like. I only knew his work; as a photographer of fashion, mostly, but also of flowers and plants. I have many of his books. The first – and also last – poem I wrote to my husband sits pressed between the pages of Flora’s blue-green ghostly maple leaves and an artery-red swarm of oak. But before the awkward identity reveal took place, I found myself in the curious position of talking to him… about him because it was his work I was thinking of when I spoke. ‘I want images to take us away from all this,’ I said, waving a…

2 min.
the gold list contributors

MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI The City Smarts, p74 ‘When my daughter was studying in London, I would check into Claridge’s, which very quickly began to feel like home. It’s always managed to have that traditional English spirit, with beautifully personalised service, but without ever feeling stuffy.’ Italian designer Maria Grazia is the first female creative director at Dior DELFINA DELETTREZ The Shopping Scene, p56 ‘It has to be my charming, eclectic Villa Laetitia, on the little island of Ponza in Italy, owned by my grandmother, Anna Fendi. I love the suite on the Noble Floor; the walls are covered with paintings of my family. It’s more than a room to me.’ Rome-based jeweller Delfina is the youngest designer to be exhibited at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs CORA SHEIBANI St Moritz, p176 ‘The Ahilya Fort in Maheshwar, India, is…

3 min.
the infatuat ion japan

THE ONSEN BATHS Japan’s soothing hot waters, usually fed by volcanic springs, were first written about in 712bc and are so important to the national culture that there’s recently been a debate about changing the onsen symbol on maps in time for this year’s Olympics – some claim the current emoji looks too much like steaming food. I’ve sampled a fair few of the country’s 3,000 or so inns and bathing spots, including Gajoen, set by a rushing river in the jungle of Kyushu, and sharply modern Hoshinoya Karuizawa on a serene Nagano lake, which reminded me of Therme Vals spa in Switzerland. But I found my all-time favourite in a sparsely populated valley west of Numata, a quirky, underrated ski area just a few hours from Tokyo that’s blanketed by…

2 min.
the movement undertourism

In 2018, overtourism was one of the Oxford English Dictionary’s words of the year, prompted by local backlashes in Venice, Iceland, Santorini and Barcelona, and the closure of places such as Thailand’s Maya Bay and parts of the Faroe Islands due to sheer visitor numbers. This year, everyone’s talking instead about its cheerier antonym. Undertourism may have been invented by marketeers, and could be read simply as a reframing of an age-old desire to avoid the well-trodden path. And yet, in a time when we are more aware of our travel footprint than ever, it might have a greater meaning: not only seeking out destinations that have been in the shadows, but also those where arrivals could actively help local communities. In this new spirit, small-group pioneer Intrepid Travel has…

2 min.
the rescue mission french cafes

REVIVING THE NATION’S DEFINITIVE CULTURAL HUB Whether a see-and-be-seen Provençal terrace or a Formica-clad gathering spot in Brittany, the French café was described by Balzac as ‘the people’s parliament’. As the soul of the community, it’s the equivalent of the English pub – except even more endangered. Its gradual decline in recent decades has led the government to set aside £130 million to save 1,000 of them in villages and small towns. You only have to watch the Tour De France to see riders whirr past previously thriving establishments put out of business by urbanisation, smoking bans and economic realities. Some have started doubling as post offices and tourism bureaus, even establishing fast Wi-Fi – but the impact has been dramatic. Which makes it all the more important that we protect…

2 min.
the aristocratic stay heir bnb

Lord Ted Innes Ker is, in some ways, merely doing what he’s always done. He’s always lived at the grandly turreted Floors – Scotland’s largest inhabited castle, near Kelso – where from a young age he’d stalk grouse and pheasant on the estate’s 52,000 acres of rolling hills and heathery moors, fishing for salmon in the Teviot and Tweed. With a similar Corinthian spirit as his late father, the Duke of Roxburghe, he became a serious angler and shot, and a professional golfer. What’s changed is that Innes Ker, 35, is now opening up his estate and deep connections in the form of Reiver Travel, a bespoke tour company specialising in the largely off-limits sporting outdoors. Or, as he puts it, ‘the Scotland there’s no website for’. Trips might involve…