Decanter August 2019

Where to eat and drink in Istria and Dalmatia Photographs: Damir Fabijanić; Morana Popovčić. Map: Filip Kelava Alla Beccaccia, Valbandon Dominated by a large central fireplace, this friendly, unpretentious restaurant specialises in local dishes, including homemade pasta and slow-cooked, melt-in-the-mouth snipe. www.beccaccia.hr Bibich, Plastovo nr Šibenik In addition to the shop that sells local wines, spirits, vinegars and olive oils, Bibich offers inspired cooking from Alen BiLić’s wife Vesna, using loVal produce such as sea bream and cuttlefish, cheese-wrapped olives, paprika, marinated prawns and a rich Leef stew. +385 91 323 5729 Boškinac, Novalja, Pag On the picturesque island of Pag, BoškinaV’s superL restaurant (a member of the Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe group) offers loVal delicacies, such as the famous Paški sir Vheese and lamL, with its wines. www.boskinac.com Meneghetti, Bale…

SPONSORED GUIDE Meet the Grand Cro Introducing the eight member wineries of the Premium Croatian Wine Estates organisation BDNRYLć Address: Murvica bb, 21420 Murvica, BTCč Tel: +385 91 509 5891 A fourth-generation grape-grower, owner Hrvoje Baković worked as a sailor in New Zealand Lefore returning to Croatia to start his own Loutique winery on the island of Brač. He Lought 5ha of land on the slopes of MurviVa, overlooking the AdriatiV, and worked hard to Luild up the winery. SinVe 1996, after a failed trial with Crljenak Kaštelanski, he has LeVome a proponent of long-ripening PlavaV Mali, whiVh is partiVularly suited to the terroir. He has also planted Pošip, CaLernet Sauvignon and Syrah, and produVes aLout 25,000 Lottles of wine a year. His vineyards are on the south side of…

A las, this is my last column for the magazine. After five fantastic years as Decanter’s content director, I am moving on to vineyards new. As you can imagine, it’s quite a wrench. Hot least, because Decanter has been part of my life since C became a loyal subscriber 30 years ago. Ct is no exaggeration to say that this has been my dream job. Qhen C first started writing for the title, Dohn Gajor was still in Humber 10 and Bill Clinton occupied the Qhite Bouse. Back then, the wine world was also a very different place. Bordeaux ruled the roost, dominating cellars and salerooms. Cn contrast, Burgundy and Barolo remained minority sports. Geanwhile, China, English fizz, natural wine and Coravin were yet to make an impact. There was no internet to speak of.…

Bordeaux labelling under investigation Uncertainty has settled in Bordeaux after officials indicated a tougher stance, and possible prosecutions, for wines using a château name but made with grapes not grown on the estate. Officials have been investigating whether some so-called ‘marques domaniales’ mislead consumers. Nhere has been a particular focus on wines using the prefix ‘Bordeaux de’ plus the name of a specific château, according to an industry memo. In some cases, the wine is produced by a merchant house and has not been sourced from vineyards owned by the estate or made by the property’s winemaking team – even if they advised on selection or methods. A ‘systematic’ investigation was launched by French government agency Direccte, which handles regional issues concerning fraud and consumer protection, according to a note seen by Decanter and…

SPONSORED GUIDE Top 60 wines to try Amanda Barnes and Anthony Rose each recommend their favourite 30 wines to try from tastings made on their recent travels throughout Croatia. While most of the sparkling, white, red and sweet wines on these pages are not yet exported, seek them out on your next Croatian holiday SPARKLING 1 Tomac, Amfora Brut Nature, Plešivica, Uplands 2010 94 N/A UK www.tomac.hr This sparkling amphora wine is a revelation! Wild aromas of almond cake and candied tangerine don’t prepare you for the racy acidity and bone-dry finish. A rollercoaster! Amanda Barnes Drink 2019-2022 Alcohol 12.5% 2 Šember, Pavel Brut, Plešivica, Uplands 2013 92 N/A UK www.sember.hr The Šember family has been making wine for more than a century, but this is the first vintage of…

Darrel Joseph My Zagreb Croatia’s capital city has much to offer visitors, with a wealth of dynamic bars and restaurants showcasing mouthwatering regional flavours and delicious local wines, says Darrel Joseph Zagreb today is bursting with many new restaurants, bistros, wine bars and street food hotspots. In fact, the food scene is virtually unrecognisable compared to a decade ago – and I can only imagine how it was when my grandparents spent time here more than a century ago. They were born in the 1880s just 50km from Zagreb, when Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and emigrated to the US in 1909. At the heart of foodie Zagreb is the Dolac, the farmer’s market just behind the Vity’s main square, Ban Jelačić. Two vast outdoor and indoor levels…