Table of contents for May 2016 in go!

As usual, this issue of go! is jam-packed with interesting stories, but Annelie Steenkamp’s on page 129 is one of my favourites. She tells how her grandfather Johnny and grandmother Dinie hitched a small caravan to their Ford Roadster in the 1940s and toured the country. Today we look at black-and-white photographs and we shake our heads in disbelief. South Africans have clearly never been scared of daunting road trips, even if the journey took longer than the holiday itself! Annelie’s memories remind me of the stories my father-in-law tells of his holidays in the 1930s. He was born on a mission station near Nkhoma in Malawi, where his dad was the treasurer and his mom was a teacher. Years later, they farmed with tobacco and cattle not too far…

Family Walks in Cape Town by Tim Lundy, Struik Travel & Heritage Tim Lundy, son of hiking legend Mike Lundy who passed away last year, follows in his father’s footsteps with this guide to 30 accessible hikes around the Cape Peninsula. What sets this book apart is its focus on family-friendly trails – for young and old. Tim’s inspiration came from hiking several trails with his dad, who was 72 at the time, and his six-year-old daughter. The trails all cover easy terrain and you’re advised to take it slow – the average distance is just under 3 km. The trails are divided by area and each one has a route map, photos, a detailed description, approximate hiking times and distances, points of interest and interesting historical information. Like the…

LOOKOUT CAFÉ, VICTORIA FALLS, ZIMBABWE Yes, you can go to Vic Falls for the weekend! That’s what Mariska and Willem Nel from Joburg did (pictured) – they flew up for a quick break. After Iguazu in Brazil (imagine five Vic Falls) and Niagara, Vic Falls is one of the most famous waterfalls in the world. And for good reason: Stand before the thundering torrent of the mighty Zambezi and it will make you quiet. And soaking wet. There are better places to eat a sandwich than under the spray of the falls so don’t expect to find a restaurant right next to the water. The Lookout Café is a few kilometres downstream overlooking Batoka Gorge. It’s operated by the guys from Wild Horizons, who also offer a gorge swing. Have…

Glamping in Paternoster Staying over in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve south of Paternoster on the West Coast previously meant pitching a tent at Tietiesbaai. Not any more: Ten new eco-friendly wooden cabins have been built for those not fond of sleeping bags and ground sheets. Each of the cabins, called Sea Shacks, sleeps two people (queen-size or twin beds available) and bedding is provided. Guests receive a crate with plates, bowls, cups, glasses and cutlery and they share four “kleinhuisies”, each with an eco-toilet, urinal, basin and gas shower. You can braai and socialise in the communal boma and cook in the well-equipped kitchen. There’s no electricity or Wi-Fi, but there is solar power to charge your phone, and reliable cellphone reception for that work call that just can’t…

The oribi is one of our smaller antelope species, found in temperate grasslands throughout Africa. Although quite distinct, it’s easy to mistake one for a steenbok, a similar but much smaller antelope. The best way to identify an oribi is by its black tail. Oribi are quite gregarious and live in family groups consisting of a male, one or two females and their offspring. Males are fiercely territorial and mark their territories by rubbing secretions made by their pre-orbital glands on vegetation, and by defecating in dung middens. Interestingly, females are not nearly as territorial and may move out of a male’s territory if food is scarce. Although oribi are quite common in some parts of Africa, even abundant, they are classified as endangered in South Africa. The main reason…

27 APRIL – 7 MAY Bloem Show, Bloemfontein Besides a busy agricultural programme with national competitions like show jumping and sheep shearing, there are also exhibits, performances by the likes of the Parlotones, and activities like sack jumping and cow milking. Kids can skate in the skate park or see what’s happening in the pet section. Where? Bloemfontein show ground Cost: R70 per adult; R20 for pensioners and kids under 12; free for kids under 6. Tickets: computicket.co.za More info: bloemskou.co.za ; 051 448 9894 30 APRIL – 2 MAY South African Cheese Festival, Stellenbosch Taste popular, well-known cheeses or introduce your palate to exotic varieties. You can also taste wine, listen to live music and watch demonstrations by local food personalities. Where? Sandringham, next…

READER STORY KATHY WILKINSON Home town: Cape Town Occupation: Teacher In 1933, when British travel writer Patrick Leigh Fermor decided to walk the length of Europe from the Hook of Holland to Constantinople, he wrote: “I have never met anyone who has been to Bulgaria. Bulgaria seems the darkest, most backward and least inviting country except Albania.” I haven’t been to Albania, but I can tell you that post-Soviet Bulgaria is nothing of the sort. Branded as the Land of the Roses, it’s an accessible and affordable destination, especially for South Africans paying in rands. Bulgaria has high mountains, a rich and varied history, world-class cities, impressive natural wonders, quirky traditions, an interesting variety of drinks, delicious food and friendly residents who are ready to help debunk any preconceived views…

The Milky Way is the galaxy that contains our solar system. The science of it hurts the brain: It’s home to as many as a trillion stars and at least 100 billion planets, of which Earth is one. It’s no wonder photographer Marcus Jooste is smitten. Known for his macro-photographs of insects and snails (go! #113), he decided to turn his attention to the night sky on a tour of Namibia. Astrophotography is all about getting your timing and positioning right. You need to know when the sun will set, when the moon will rise and which way to orientate yourself. Marcus recommends an app called The Photographer’s Ephemeris ( photoephemeris.com), which gives you all this information. “I love the whole process” he says. “The gear, the planning, the wild…

1 OTTERBOX SYMMETRY The Symmetry is a one-piece case with a rubber interior and a hard plastic outer. The phone it protects fits snugly inside, and the button covers all worked perfectly for me. Although it offers no screen protection, the raised bezel around the edge should prevent most scratches. If you’re still worried about your screen, get your local cellphone shop to fit a tempered-glass screen protector (R100 – R250). This is an excellent general case for the outdoor-minded. Availability: iPhone 5 and above; Samsung Galaxy S5 and above; Samsung Galaxy Note 4 and LG G3. About R350 at retailers like Cameraland and Vodacom stores, and takealot.com 2 THULE ATMOS X4 This case is only available for iPhone 6 and 6 Plus, so I got my high-rolling…

ANNELIE STEENKAMP from Pretoria writes: My grandfather Johan (Johnny) Zanoli was a child when his family moved to South Africa from the Netherlands. He met my grandmother Dinie Coleman at the Hartbeespoort Dam, where the Zanolis had a weekend home. My grandparents married in 1944. As soon as he could afford it, my grandfather bought a caravan and he and my grandmother travelled the country in their Ford Roadster. My father Frits Zanoli was born in 1945, but having children hardly put a damper on Johnny and Dinie’s love of travel. One of their road trips took them to the Southern Cape, where Dinie’s family lived: They visited Calitzdorp, Oudtshoorn, and Willowmore, and they camped at Hartenbos. Soon the family outgrew the old caravan, so my grandfather built a bigger…

Biltong Den, Wolmaransstad, North West If you’re travelling on the N12 between Gauteng and Kimberley, you’ll cross paths with a big building with a green roof in Wolmaransstad. Rolene Potgieter started Biltong Den in 1987. Back then the building was smaller; Rolene has had to build extensions as the place became more popular over the years. As soon as you walk through the door, you’ll realise that you’re in biltong paradise. Biltong of all varieties hangs on hooks: wet or dry, beef or game, droëwors and cabanossi. You can buy a whole piece or have it sliced for padkos. Beef biltong costs R285/kg and game biltong R270/kg. The shop also sells cooldrinks and sweets. The N12 feels much shorter when you’re chewing on a piece of biltong. And you’ll want…

Remember what you learnt about the solar system at school? Earth is the third planet from the sun and the two planets that are closer – Mercury and Venus – occasionally pass between us and the sun. Yes, it happens! This event is called a transit. Since Mercury is closer to the sun, it transits more often – an average of 13 times every 100 years. Transits of Venus are much less common. A transit has only been witnessed eight times since the telescope was invented 400 years ago! On 9 May, look out for a transit of Mercury – the first one since 2006. There will be another transit in November 2019, but after that you’ll have to wait until 2032. In South Africa, we’ll be able to see…

Waterkloof slowly passed away along with its residents, most of whom were pensioners. The houses were simply abandoned and after a while became dilapidated. Weeds colonised the gardens. Even some bluegum trees withered and died. When night falls in Waterkloof, it’s dark and quiet. But one house still has a light shining. It belongs to Jan van der Merwe (77), the last resident of this forgotten village near Philippolis in the southern Free State. In 1867, the Dutch Reformed church in Philippolis bought a farm called Waterkloof, 7km away. The farm was divided into plots and each was donated to an impoverished member of the congregation. Some plots were also sold to generate funds for the church. To the east of the village, a natural spring sent water down a…

Some users find LED lights to be harsh on the eyes and cold in colour. The same people often prefer old-school fluorescent lighting, which is well diffused, warm in colour and far more ambient in its delivery. So, which is better? Are LEDs automatically the better choice, or do fluorescent lights still have something to offer the outdoor traveller? Oddly, it seems that the retail industry has made this decision for you; these days it’s almost impossible to buy a new 12 V fluorescent camping light. In fact, the only company that still manufactures 12 V fluorescent camping lights is National Luna: a South African-based outfit that specialises in 12 V refrigeration, dual-battery systems, and outdoor lighting. National Luna was once an industry leader in 12 V fluorescent lights; but…

Taste wine at Montpellier Spend the afternoon under the pergola next to the pool at Montpellier estate. It’s about 3 km north-west of Tulbagh via the Twee Jonge Gezellen Road. Taste wine (R40 per person) and order a bottle of your favourite. (Try the gewürztraminer with a hint of Turkish delight.) A cheese platter costs R100 and it’s enough for two. Contact: 023 230 0656; montpellier.co.za Slow down at Coffee & Cream The restaurant in this Cape Dutch homestead at 40 Church Street is a popular new spot and portions are generous – the chicken or beef pie with salad (R60) comes highly recommended. Every second Sunday a traditional lunch is served, featuring old favourites like apricot chicken for mains and tipsy tart for dessert. Opening times: Monday…

1 Visit Kassiesbaai The names of Kassiesbaai’s brightly painted boats are clearly visible when you venture closer – Nicolene, Emma, Ou Grote, Timothy – and the fishermen scrambling on their decks talk about them fondly, as if they’re discussing an elderly family member. Nearby, wind-battered stone cottages huddle in rows, mostly unchanged since the first were built in the 19th century. Kassiesbaai is a national heritage site and there are strict measures in place to ensure the character of the fishing village remains intact. Make sure to visit popular dining spots Wanda’s Waenhuis and Willene’s, and buy a souvenir at Kassiesbaai Crafts near the entrance to the village. Keep an eye out for new developments within the next year: A “Fish House” might open soon, which will provide historical information…

Andrew Smith paraglides off Kilimanjaro from Uhuru Peak (5 895 m), the highest point in Africa, after waiting for the right wind for three hours. He joined an expedition called Seven Summits 7 Flights ( 7summits 7flights.co.za), whose members are attempting to paraglide from the summits of the highest mountains on each of the seven continents. This expedition was the first to obtain permission to paraglide off Kilimanjaro. The team climbed to the summit via the Rongai route, which approaches from the north-eastern side of the mountain. Eventually three paragliders took off, including photographer Marianne Schwankhart, and they all landed safely in the town of Mopti at the base of the mountain an hour and a half later. Everyone else took two days to walk down. To date, the Seven…