Australian Stitches

“I see those culottes and flared, or wide-leg pants everywhere, but are they only for the very tall and thin?” No! As we mentioned a few issues back, culottes have made a huge comeback from decades in the fashion wilderness to become one of the freshest pant shapes of the season … but they can also be the trickiest to wear, unless you keep a few things in mind. First off, finding the right shape for you is crucial. They range from slim and just on the knee to very loose and cropped low on the calf. The Butterick style shown here is quite loose (but not too full) and cropped at the slimmest part of the leg, which is ideal if you’re worried such a style may make you look stumpy. Once…

One of the most important tools in your sewing arsenal is underlining – and if you’re not familiar with all that it can do, you’re in for a treat. While interfacing strengthens a speci›c area of a garment, underlining (sometimes called interlining) supports an entire garment section. It gives subtle – and sometimes not-so-subtle – strength behind the scenes. Let’s ›nd out what underlining’s can do, how to choose them, and how to apply them to the fashion fabric. What underlining does? Underlining is joined to the fashion fabric early in the construction process, and from that point onward, the two layers function as one. Its presence reduces wrinkling, it absorbs perspiration, and importantly, it gives a layer to which hand stitches can be caught. See photo 1. The hemstitches of a satin dress…

ALL LACED UP in this season’s newest ivory and ebony laces. Featuring new machinery techniques these fabrics include mesh bases with appliqué ribbons, ›oral tributes and Roaring Twenties fringing. The newest way of wearing these fabrics is to add a peach or dusty pink underlay – very French! Perfect for Mother-of-the-Bride, bridesmaids, second and third time round brides and for just looking DESIGNER CHIC! Happy sewing – David Tinworth, Martin & Savage Fabrics – david@mands.com.au 1. Eloise 15009, design: 14600, 100% nylon, colour: Ivory, 130/135cm wide. 2. Silk satin 22601, 100% silk, colour: Peony, 135/137cm wide. 3. Frida 16002, 100% polyester, colours: Black and Ivory (only Ivory shown), 144/147cm wide. 4. Glacier 15017, 77% polyester/13% nylon/10% spandex, colour: Black/White, 137/142cm wide. 5. Stretch Taffeta 33521, 56% polyester/38% nylon/6% spandex, colour: Pearl, 140/142cm wide. 6. Stretch Taffeta 33521, 56%…

Hourglass This classic feminine shape allows the most flexibility when it comes to choosing styles. You should look for styles with shaped and fitted lines that highlight your natural curves. Styles that follow your body line will draw the eye to your natural waist, enhance your bust and define your hips and bottom. A wrap dress which defines the waist is perfect. For pants, look for slim line styles that sit on the real waistline – this will accentuate your shape and lengthen your legs. Suggested styleARC patterns: Jessica Dress Tia Knit Wrap Dress Layla Dress Patti Woven Dress Willow Pant Inverted Triangle Look for styles that broaden your hips and have a plain upper body without any volume. Anything that creates volume, or design features that catch the eye, should be kept to the lower body. This will…

If the distance from the finished armhole to the actual shoulder is more than 1 or 2cm ( 3/8 – ¾in), by inserting a sleeve the actual sleeve seam will be sitting on the shoulder line instead of a more comfortable sleeve line area. Not only will it feel strange to the wearer, it can also distort the neckline and cause drags, will not allow the sleeve to fall close to the body and will always have a distorted hemline. See photos 1 and 2. By adding more cap (head) to the sleeve most of these above problems will be alleviated. First off, to draft the basic sleeve, we will need to recreate what is missing from the armhole. Place some calico, or a piece of paper, under the upper armhole…

Altering the sleeve pattern is a simple process, still allowing the sleeve to slip perfectly into the armhole as the pattern intends. If possible, work on a surface such as a cardboard cutting board that is marked in squares. This board will enable you to keep the pattern square and to pin the pattern in place while working, before permanently securing the cut sleeve pattern to the paper. Tissue paper over the cutting board allows the square marking to be used to its greatest potential. To decide how much to enlarge the sleeve, measure the upper arm at the armpit and further down the arm. Heavy upper arms are usually large somewhere above the elbow. If the sleeve is to be long, measure the elbow by placing the tape in the…