Australian Stitches No 27-4

Autumn 2015 sees an influx of blue – from baby blue to aqua to cobalt to light navy to midnight! And, at last, navy accessories are being developed to complement. Yes, navy shoes and handbags are back in the fashionable accessory stores. Martin & Savage has a collection of prints that go from mini geometrics and abstract spots through to wild abstracts! The fabrics we’ve used are mostly polyester knits. Some have a hint of spandex! All are perfect for travel wardrobes. And, can easily be sewn into shirts, shell tops, bias-cut skirts, wrap dresses, jumpsuits and pull-on wide-legged pants. Think Emma Peel from the Avengers and her figure contouring fashions and you’ve got the look! Yes, the seventies are back! Happy Sewing – David from M & S Fabrics! 1. PTD Milan…

KNITS on the rise Say the word ‘knits’ and run-of-the-mill chunky jumpers or boring sensible cardigans may come to mind ... and while a chunky cocoon-shaped sweater and (now not-so-boring) cardigan are actually at the top of fashion’s hit list this season, which we’ll look at in a future issue, the definition of knits has expanded beautifully to include the lightest, sleekest, and most feminine looks we’ve seen in years. They’re also some of the easiest to wear … such as in light jersey tunics or dresses that have all the ease of a t-shirt. They also add a dash of instant colour or print to your wardrobe as in the Kwik•Sew number in an on-trend geometric print on this page (see more easy tunics and tops on page 57), to great…

6266 SHIRT (above inset): Sleeveless, short- or long-sleeve lengths, in four versions. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 18. 6290 SKIRT: pattern also includes shorts and pants. Misses’ sizes: 4 – 16. 6287 SKIRT (main image): Four versions, in three different lengths. Misses’ sizes: 10 – 22. 6281 PULLOVER DRESS (lower right inset): Four versions, in two different lengths. Design can be with or without asymmetric tiers, or high-low hem. Misses’ sizes: 10 – 22. 6291 JUMPSUIT (above): Pattern includes similarly styled short romper and maxi-length or high-low dress. Misses’ sizes: 4 – 16. 6292 TUNIC TOP (above left inset): Sleeveless, three-quarter or long-sleeve lengths, optional shirttail hem and front pockets. Pattern also includes drawstring pants. Misses’ sizes: 10 – 22. 6285 KNIT TANK TOP (lower left inset): Fitted or straight versions, in four styles, one with lace…

Once upon a time I could go through the pattern catalogues and select 7 – 10 patterns, make them up and it would see me through an entire season and into the next (even my children follow the Wardrobe Plan Rule – three bottoms, five – seven tops, plus a jacket and a dress). So what has changed and why has this wardrobe plan been such a challenge? Is it lifestyle, or is it age, is it a changing figure shape … or have I just lost ME somewhere along the way? I actually think it’s the latter! Like so many other working mothers, I spend most of my time either working or being a mother, and unfortunately ‘myself’ gets put at the bottom of the list of priorities. We forget…

Although not a difficult garment to sew, attention to fit is essential. Commonly, the fitted bodice has a princess seam over the bust, a sleeveless armhole combined with a broad or open neckline, and a hemline finish near the high hip. While these features make the garment fashionable and flexible, they are also the same characteristics that can create fitting problems. A perfect garment can be achieved by adjusting the pattern for fit concerns in these areas. It is highly recommend a toile be created first so that problems can be identified and dealt with before the fashion fabric is cut. Styling The fitted bodice suits many figures as long as care and consideration are taken with a few basic details. First, fabric selection! Bright colours in shiny fabric will enhance figure…

When shortening a gown there are a variety of hem choices, but certain hem types will work better on certain fabrics. Normally with clothing alterations you would repeat the original hem style, but sometimes this is not possible or a different method can be used to create a better finish. Judith now shares the techniques that she has successfully been using for the past 20 years in the industry to hem fabrics such as satin, chiffon and stretch knits. Satin and similar fabric Medium – heavyweight With the right side of the fabric facing, overlock the cut edge using a wide 3-thread overlock; this is achieved by removing the right needle. Note: Using a wide 3-thread overlocking stitch, with needle in left-hand position, for clothing alterations gives a more professional finish. Fold only the overlocking, to…