Arte & Arquitectura

Wallpaper September 2019

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3 minutos

Wallpaper.com facebook.com/wallpapermagazine @wallpapermag @wallpapermag Editorial Editor-in-ChiefSarah Douglas Senior EditorNick Compton Executive EditorBridget Downing Commissioning EditorTF Chan Editors-at-LargeJonathan BellLeïla LatchinEmma O’KellyHenrietta ThompsonSuzanne Trocmé Quality Maniac-at-LargeNick Vinson Editorial AssistantHarriet Lloyd-Smith Executive Assistant to Sarah Douglas & Special Projects CoordinatorDanaï Loukas Art Art DirectorJessica Rose Senior DesignerAnne-Laure Fuchs Junior DesignersAlex Ranson, Ben Rimmer, Ryan Wooding InternDaniel Faltys Photography Acting Photography ProducerCarly Gray Photography DirectorHolly Hay Photography EditorOlivia-Rose Hazeldine Assistant Photography EditorSophie Gladstone Architecture / Design Architecture EditorEllie Stathaki Acting Design EditorAlice Morby Design EditorRosa Bertoli Assistant Architecture EditorHarriet Thorpe Interiors / Entertaining Interiors DirectorAmy Heffernan Entertaining DirectorMelina Keays Interiors StylistMatthew Morris Junior Interiors StylistOlly Mason Interiors CoordinatorJacqui Scalamera InternRoberto Sideris Fashion Fashion Content DirectorIsabelle Kountoure Fashion EditorJason Hughes Fashion Market EditorCamille Kolb Fashion & Jewellery News EditorLaura Hawkins Bookings EditorTracy Gilbert Fashion AssistantAylin Bayhan InternMorgane Nyfeler Watches & Jewellery Watches & Jewellery DirectorCaragh McKay Assistant Watches & Jewellery EditorHannah Silver Beauty / Lifestyle Beauty & Lifestyle DirectorEmma Moore InternEmi Eleode Production Production EditorAnne Soward Sub EditorLéa Teuscher Travel Travel EditorLauren Ho Wallpaper* Digital Acting Digital EditorElly Parsons Digital Associate EditorJessica Klingelfuss Online Design EditorSujata Burman Senior Digital DesignerFraser Clark Junior Digital DesignerCharlotte…

2 minutos

GIORGIO ARMANI Fashion designer Presiding over a sprawling empire that includes fashion, furniture, food and hospitality, Mr Armani (as all devotees call him) is an icon of our times, but especially of Milan, where he maintains his headquarters and Armani/Silos exhibition space. Following the launch of the new Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante in the city, he responded to our Artist’s Palate invitation with a distinctly local dish: saffron risotto with scallops, orange and fennel (page 234). LAURA RYSMAN Writer Tuscany-based Rysman was deployed to the Florence studio of polymath artist and designer Duccio Maria Gambi to discuss his eccentric, craft-oriented approach to retail architecture for one-year-old fashion label Plan C, as part of our Architects of fashion story (page 133). According to Rysman, Gambi’s ‘explicitly imperfect geometries reveal a beautiful human touch’. Rysman is…

2 minutos
quiet revolution

It’s September and time for our particular sort of Style Special. We have compiled our favourite new architects of fashion; Smiljan Radić works his truly timeless magic on the new Alexander McQueen flagship on London’s Bond Street, BIG’s Bjarke Ingels triumphantly brings the Haussmannian atrium up-to-date at the new Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées, Roz Barr orchestrates the perfect studio space at Selfridges in London, Snøhetta gets extra textural for Holzweiler in Oslo, Hesselbrand works wonders with the rawest of materials at Alyx’s temporary showroom in Paris, and artist and designer Duccio Maria Gambi brings tough geometry to Tokyo for Plan C. From retail to residence, Paule Ka founder Serge Cajfinger invites us into his Marcio Kogan-designed beach house in Brazil – Kogan was commissioned after Cajfinger saw his Paraty house in an…

1 minutos
full volume

After seeing the voluminous, globular earpieces that Marco Panconesi created for Mugler’s A/W19 collection, we were keen to try his jewels out for size. ‘Things in movement,’ the Florence-born, Paris-based jeweller says of the designs in his eponymous autumn debut, which features oversized hoops framed in coloured translucent enamel or crystals, that can be suspended from the ear lobe or hooked above the helix, or earpieces with metal tendrils that can be manipulated to move beyond or frame the face. Panconesi has given us a sneak peek of a piece in his upcoming sophomore collection. This oversized ear cuff, which sprouts crystals across the surface of the ear, highlights the jewellery designer’s idiosyncratic take on voluminous forms, with smatterings of crystals resting on different points of the skin. Model: Michelle Opiyo…

1 minutos
get into shape

There’s a sculptural sensibility behind autumn’s most envy-inducing bags. Part accessory, part objet, they will complement a console table as much as a cocked wrist. Pared-back, deconstructed shapes reflect a modernist mindset, and handles are carved from the main body of bags to create wearable windows. Bottega Veneta and Published By are spearheading the sculptural trend, with designs resembling military holders and glossy meteorites, formed from padded leather, angular metal and recycled microfibre. Elsewhere, this Loewe bag is a re-edition of a style from its 1980s ‘Great Architects’ collection, a design that’s perfect for complementing both outfit and mantelpiece.…

1 minutos
occidental hero

For his new London show (his first with David Gill Gallery), Dutch designer Sebastian Brajkovic presents a furniture collection that includes a bench in the form of a Möbius strip. The title, ‘Lemniscate’, reflects an interest in mathematics, a lemniscate being an algebraic curve shaped like the number eight. Offsetting its pure, futuristic form are its intricately embroidered edges, with serpentine forms inspired by Brajkovic’s study of Chinese calligraphy. ‘It’s like an autograph,’ says Brajkovic. ‘I travel a lot between East and West, and I wanted my designs to reflect that.’ ‘The Occidental Artisan’, 13 September-17 October, David Gill Gallery, 2-4 King Street, London SW1, davidgillgallery.com; sebastianbrajkovic.com…