The author and adventurer Daniel Defoe, writing in 1724, declared Edinburgh’s Royal Mile “the largest, longest and finest street for Buildings and Number of Inhabitants... in the World.” Visitors flocking here today, notably in August for Edinburgh International Festival and its irrepressible sibling, the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, no doubt get that same feeling of cultural bustle. Threading through the heart of the medieval Old Town, from the imposing castle in the west to the Palace of Holyroodhouse in the east, the famous thoroughfare links many of the city’s historic sights. St Giles’ Cathedral, museums, shops, pubs and restaurants are all eminently walkable.
Yet Edinburgh’s is a tale of two cities: the Old Town to the south of Princes Street Gardens, where a short step from the Royal Mile’s august landmarks,…
