Table of contents for May 2016 in Food & Wine

The places, people and ideas to watch Green sauce Apple dashi with pureed oregano references a clam dish at chef David Chang's favorite Sydney restaurant. Local clams For the Clams Grand Lisboa at NYC's Momofuku Nishi, the shellfish changes each season. Toasted noodles Toasting rather than boiling fideos-style noodles helps them soak up the sauce. 1 STAR CHEFS' NYC NEWS MOMOFUKU NISHI David Chang's new restaurant revels in Asian-Italian mash-ups like Clams Grand Lisboa (above). Named for a Macao casino, the dish gives linguine with clams a dashi kick. nishi .momofuku.com. For more, turn the page. LA SIRENA At Mario Batali's massive new restaurant in The Maritime Hotel, guests can order a "bis" (two tastings) of pasta, or have cocktails at the 38-foot marble bar. lasirena-nyc.com. UNION SQUARE…

Total 30 min; Serves 4 2 Tbsp. turbinado sugar 2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce ¼ cup fresh lime juice 1 tsp. canola oil ½ cup salted dry-roasted peanuts ¼ tsp. ground cumin 1 head Little Gem lettuce, light green leaves only, thinly sliced 2 cups julienned green papaya (see Note) 1½ cups julienned peeled yellow or Chioggia beets (from 1 large beet) ½ cup julienned carrot ¼ cup finely diced tomatillo (from 1 large husked tomatillo) ½ cup lightly packed cilantro leaves ½ cup lightly packed mint leaves 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds 1. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and fish sauce and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the lime juice. Let cool. 2.…

Total 1 hr; Serves 4 to 6 1 large eggplant 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil ⅓ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup honey 1 Tbsp. minced rosemary 1 Tbsp. minced oregano 1 Tbsp. minced parsley, plus chopped parsley for garnish Kosher salt and pepper One 12-oz. jar piquillo peppers, drained well and patted dry 4 oz. fresh goat cheese, preferably Spanish (½ cup) 2 oz. cream cheese (¼ cup) Thick toasts and marinated white anchovies, for serving 1. Roast the eggplant directly over a gas flame, turning occasionally, until charred all over and soft, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a colander and let cool slightly, then peel and let cool completely. 2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, cook the garlic in the oil over moderate…

Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 30 min Serves 6 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 white onion, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, sliced 1½ tsp. cumin seeds 1½ tsp. ground coriander 2 cups chicken stock 14 oz. tomato puree 1 oregano sprig 2 bay leaves 4½ lbs. skinless whole chicken legs Twelve 5-inch flour tortillas 3 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar Kosher salt and pepper Cilantro, lime wedges and sliced onion, for serving 1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Add the onion, garlic, cumin and coriander. Cook over moderately high heat until the onion is softened. Add the stock, tomato puree, oregano and bay leaves; bring to a boil. Add the chicken, cover partially and simmer until cooked, 35 to 40 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, preheat the…

Active: 2 hr; Total: 7 hr; Serves 4 The flour-and-water dough that covers the biryani while it cooks is not meant to be eaten. Instead, crack off the dough lid and discard before serving, then scoop out the fragrant, saffron-laced rice and lamb beneath. LAMB ¼ cup canola oil 2 onions (1 lb.), thinly sliced ¾ cup finely chopped mint ½ cup finely chopped cilantro ¼ cup yogurt 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 to 3 Thai chiles, minced 1 Tbsp. finely grated garlic 1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. cayenne 1½ tsp. ground coriander 1½ tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. Garam Masala (below) ¼ tsp. ground turmeric 1½ lbs. trimmed boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 Tbsp. ghee or clarified…

PAGE 88 Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr; Serves 4 This festive traditional dish, a layered pickled herring salad, gets its name from the grated vegetables and sieved eggs that top it. If you don't have ring molds, it's just as delicious composed on a platter. 2 medium beets 2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled 2 medium carrots, peeled and halved crosswise 2 large hard-boiled eggs 1 cup finely chopped pickled herring ¼ cup minced sweet onion ¼ cup canola oil 2 Tbsp. chopped dill, plus sprigs for garnish ½ cup mayonnaise Kosher salt 1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Wrap the beets in foil and roast for about 1 hour, until tender. Let cool slightly, then peel. 2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, cover the potatoes and carrots with at…

Active 1 hr; Total 4 hr; Makes 4 DOUGH 1 Tbsp. active dry yeast 1 tsp. sugar 1 cup whole milk 1 large egg Canola oil 6 cups all-purpose flour (1 lb. 14 oz.), plus more for dusting 1 Tbsp. kosher salt FILLING 1 lb. Bulgarian feta cheese, crumbled 6 large eggs ½ tsp. kosher salt 1 lb. mozzarella cheese, shredded 2 egg yolks, beaten with 1½ tsp. water 4 Tbsp. salted butter, plus melted butter for brushing 1. Make the dough In a large bowl, whisk the yeast with the sugar and 1 cup of warm water. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the milk with the egg and 3 tablespoons of oil. 2. Add the milk mixture, the flour and salt to…

Total 1 hr 30 min plus 4 hr 30 min chilling Makesabout 2 dozen These crisp fritters are Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson's playful take on Italian arancini. To get the creamy-chewy texture just right, they cook the grain freekeh risotto-style, adding water gradually while stirring continuously. RELISH ¾ cup fresh or thawed frozen peas 2 tsp. coriander seeds 5 pitted Castelvetrano olives 1 Tbsp. salt-packed capers, rinsed 1 spring garlic bulb or 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ¾ cup finely chopped parsley 2 Tbsp. chopped tarragon Kosher salt and pepper FRITTERS 1½ Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 onion, finely chopped 1 bay leaf Kosher salt and pepper 1 cup cracked freekeh (see box, p. 100) 8 oz. chilled Taleggio cheese,…

Active 20 min; Total 40 min Serves 4 to 6 This recipe calls for serving the greens in a pool of seasoned buttermilk, but plain kefir (see box, left) or yogurt works, too. ⅔ cup buttermilk ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling Kosher salt and pepper 1½ lbs. Swiss chard, stems sliced ¼ inch thick and leaves chopped 2 tsp. Aleppo pepper (see box, left) ½ tsp. ground sumac 1 garlic clove, finely grated ½ lemon, for serving 1. In a large, shallow bowl, whisk the buttermilk with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. 2. In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the chard stems and season with the Aleppo pepper, sumac and a generous…

Q. When you're not making wine for Penfolds, you travel constantly. How many miles do you cover each year? A. Any guesstimate I could make would be way off, I suspect. But some years I probably average two days out of the country for every day I'm at home. Just to give one instance, last year I did a wine launch in Shanghai, then flew direct to Dallas; that night, I flew to San Francisco, worked a day, then flew to New York for two days. From May to December I could be anywhere. One time I literally flew from Adelaide [Australia] to New York to give a five-minute speech at the New York Public Library, and then flew straight back to Australia. Q. How do you deal with the…

Total 30 min; Serves 4 Four 6- to 7-oz. boneless pork loin chops, pounded ½ inch thick 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 3 cups panko Kosher salt and pepper Canola oil, for frying 3 Tbsp. Japanese mustard powder (see Note) or Colman's mustard powder ½ lb. green cabbage, thinly sliced, preferably on a mandoline (4 cups) Tonkatsu sauce (see Note) and lemon wedges, for serving 1. Using kitchen shears, score the fat at the edges of the chops at 1-inch intervals, about ¼ inch deep. 2. Put the flour, eggs and panko in 3 separate shallow bowls. Season the flour with 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Season the pork cutlets with salt and pepper and coat them with flour, tapping off the excess. Dip…

Total 45 min plus 4 hr marinating; Serves 4 to 6 1¾ lbs. head-on large shrimp (24) ¼ cup canola oil 2 large yellow onions, finely chopped 3 Tbsp. sweet paprika 2 Scotch bonnet chiles—stemmed, seeded and minced 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Kosher salt Steamed rice and sliced melon tossed with chopped mint, for serving (optional) 1. Using scissors, make a cut from just below the head of each shrimp to the base of the tail, cutting through the shell but not removing it. Use the tip of a knife to remove the intestinal vein. 2. In a large bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the canola oil and 1¼ cups of the onions with the…

PAGE 123 Total 30 min; Serves 4 "You want a sharp knife," says chef Margot Henderson of Rochelle Canteen about prepping this simple, colorful vegetarian salad. ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh lemon juice Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. asparagus, peeled and very thinly sliced on the diagonal 1 fennel bulb—halved, cored and very thinly sliced lengthwise 2 red endives—halved, cored and torn into large pieces 3 oz. Berkswell or young pecorino cheese, thinly shaved 2 Tbsp. capers In a large bowl, whisk the olive oil with the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Add the asparagus, fennel, endives, cheese and capers, season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Transfer to a platter and serve.…

Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 30 min Serves 4 ¾ cup apple juice ¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt and pepper 2 Braeburn or other sweet-tart apples (1 lb.)—peeled, cored and sliced ¼ inch thick 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter Four 1-inch-thick bone-in pork rib chops (¾ lb. each) 1 cup chicken stock 8 cups mixed torn bitter lettuces, such as chicory, radicchio and Treviso 1. Preheat the oven to 450°. In a saucepan, simmer ½ cup of the apple juice over moderate heat until reduced to ¼ cup, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl to cool. Whisk in ¼ cup of the oil and the lemon juice; season the dressing with salt and pepper. 2. In a large cast-iron…

Active 30 min; Total 3 hr plus overnight marinating; Serves 6 4 garlic cloves 1½ Tbsp. chopped thyme, plus 5 thyme sprigs ½ Tbsp. dried lavender or herbes de Provence 8 juniper berries 2 Tbsp. honey ½ cup canola oil Five 3-inch strips of lemon zest 3 bay leaves One 5-lb. bone-in leg of lamb, excess fat trimmed 2 medium yellow onions, cut into wedges 2 medium parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted Sea salt 1. In a blender, puree the garlic, chopped thyme, lavender, juniper berries, honey and oil to a smooth paste. Stir in the lemon zest and bay leaves. On a rimmed baking sheet, rub the marinade all over the lamb. Cover…

PAGE 119 Total 25 min plus 45 min soaking Serves 4 to 6 ¼ cup salt-packed capers, rinsed Eight 5-oz. sole fillets Kosher salt and pepper 1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup clarified butter or ghee ⅓ cup dry white wine 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 6 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. minced parsley 1. In a small bowl, soak the capers in cold water for 45 minutes. Drain and pat dry. 2. Season the fish with salt and pepper. In a shallow bowl, whisk the flour with 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Dredge the fillets in flour and shake off any excess; transfer to a platter. 3. In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the clarified butter over moderately high heat. Add 4…

Total 1 hr 45 min; Serves 6 to 8 Plov is the national dish of Uzbekistan and is very popular across all of Central Asia. It's hearty and rich, with an irresistible topping of lamb cracklings. 6 oz. lamb fat, cut into ½-inch strips (see Note) Kosher salt and pepper 2 lbs. boneless leg of lamb, cut into ¾-inch cubes 2 large yellow onions, chopped 20 garlic cloves 3 medium carrots, shredded 2 Tbsp. cumin seeds 2 Tbsp. za'atar 7 cups low-sodium beef broth 2 cups long-grain white rice Chopped parsley, for serving 1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, cook the lamb fat over moderately low heat until rendered and the cracklings are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove the cracklings with a slotted spoon and drain on paper…

Total 45 min; Serves 4 1 lb. green beans, trimmed and halved lengthwise 1 cup parsley leaves 1 cup baby spinach (1 oz.) 3 drained oil-packed anchovy fillets ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 2 tsp. Dijon mustard ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup canola oil Kosher salt Salted toasted sunflower seeds and small mint leaves, for garnish 1. In a saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the beans until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, transfer to an ice bath to cool; pat dry. Place the beans in a bowl. Blanch the parsley in the boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain and cool in the ice bath. Squeeze out all of the water. 2. In a blender, pulse the parsley with the spinach, anchovies, cheese and mustard. With…

ROLE PLAY In Fully Committed, I play 40 characters—the main character, who is a reservationist, plus the people who call trying to get into this hot restaurant in New York City. I also play the chef, the line cook, the maître d', the business manager, Naomi Campbell's assistant…I modeled the hostess after Adele. RESTAURANT INTEL The play's director, Jason Moore, and I went to Daniel and Jean-Georges in Manhattan. I called the host desk at Jean-Georges to say I was running late and really paid attention to how the person answering the phone treated me. I dropped my napkin a few extra times to see how quickly they would pick it up. They were right on it. RESERVATION REJECTION There have been times since Modern Family started that I've tried…

THE TERM FOODIE is inadequate to describe Questlove's relationship with the international subculture of chefs," says Anthony Bourdain in his foreword to the new book Somethingtofoodabout by Ahmir "Questlove" Thompson. "He would be better described as a fully made member of the chef mafia." Questlove, the brilliant bandleader of The Roots on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon as well as a producer, DJ and writer, is fascinated by the intersection of creativity and cooking. For Somethingtofoodabout, he traveled across the country, having a series of far-ranging conversations with 10 extremely forward-thinking chefs. He got the idea for the book on a pilgrimage to Tokyo to eat at the legendary sushi counter Sukiyabashi Jiro, which he chronicled on Instagram (his feed @questlove is remarkable). "I was like Popeye to spinach,"…

STRANAHAN'S COLORADO WHISKEY ($55) This smooth, toffee-inflected single malt is made entirely with barley farmed in the Rocky Mountains. WESTLAND PEATED AMERICAN SINGLE MALT WHISKEY ($70) Until his whiskeys made with Washington state peat mature, Matt Hofmann is using Scottish peat to instill campfire-smoky notes into this complex whiskey. BALCONES "1" TEXAS SINGLE MALT WHISKY ($75) Despite the departure of original distiller Chip Tate, this substantial, oaky whiskey remains one of the best US single malts. HILLROCK ESTATE SINGLE MALT WHISKEY ($100) Master distiller Dave Pickerell, who learned his trade at Maker's Mark, creates this smoky Hudson Valley whiskey with New York barley and Scottish peat.…

Total 30 min; Serves 4 ¼ cup turbinado sugar 3 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. canola oil 1 Tbsp. minced garlic ½ tsp. crushed red pepper Kosher salt and pepper 1 lb. medium shrimp, shells intact One 6-oz. bunch of watercress, thick stems discarded 1. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar with 1 tablespoon of water. Cook over moderately high heat, swirling the pan, until an amber caramel forms, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately add the fish sauce, soy sauce and 2 tablespoons of water. 2. Heat a large skillet over high heat until smoking. Add ½ tablespoon of the canola oil and stir in half of the garlic and crushed red pepper; season with salt and pepper. Add…

1 Mushroom Carpaccio In a blender, puree 1 cup chopped chives with ½ cup olive oil; strain and season with salt. Spread 8 oz. very thinly sliced mushrooms on a platter. Drizzle with 1 Tbsp. lemon juice and the chive oil. Garnish with chopped almonds and shaved Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese. 2 Shiitake-Barley Salad Boil 1 cup barley until tender. Drain. In a skillet, heat ¼ cup olive oil. Add 12 oz. thinly sliced shiitakes and 2 cups thinly sliced shallots; cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, 6 minutes. Stir in 2 Tbsp. lemon juice and the barley. Season with salt and pepper; top with scallions. 3 Garlic-Cremini Pasta Boil 12 oz. orecchiette pasta; drain well and reserve ½ cup of the water. In a skillet, heat ¼ cup olive…

Pain Perdu with Roasted Plums Active 35 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Serves 4 ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar 4 medium red plums, halved and pitted ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped ½ tsp. ground cinnamon 2 cups heavy cream 2 large eggs Four 1-inch-thick slices of challah or brioche 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter Confectioners' sugar and whipped crème fraîche, for serving 1. In a small saucepan, combine ¾ cup of the sugar and ¾ cup of water and bring to a boil over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Remove the simple syrup from the heat; let cool slightly. 2. Preheat the oven to 350°. In an 8-inch-square baking dish, toss the plums with ½ cup of the simple…

LAST SUMMER, Rosio Sanchez opened Copenhagen's only taco stand, giving many Danes their very first taste of masa, habaneros and lime-sprinkled Oaxacan ants cooked on the plancha. Hija de Sanchez is a passion project for the former Noma pastry chef, who grew up in Chicago's Little Village, a Mexican-American enclave. So how are her new countrymen responding to a cuisine unlike anything they've ever experienced? "A lot of people don't know what a taco is, but they'll come up and say, "Give me whatever you're serving,"" Sanchez says. Consistently, her tacos sell out. Sanchez, like other pioneering chefs, is part of a movement to popularize unfamiliar flavors around the globe. "All over the world, there's this incredible appetite to try something new," says Mark Rosati, the culinary director of Shake…

Total 30 min; Serves 4 Two 14-oz. butterflied brook trout, heads and pinbones removed 2 Tbsp. canola oil Kosher salt and pepper 10 Tbsp. unsalted butter ¼ cup coarsely chopped capers 2 Tbsp. chopped parsley Beet horseradish, for garnish Heat a large nonstick skillet. Rub the fish all over with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Place 1 fish in the skillet, skin side down, and cook over moderately high heat until the skin is golden, about 3 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons of the butter and cook over moderate heat, basting the trout constantly, until the skin is crisp and the flesh is just white throughout, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add 2 tablespoons each of the butter and capers to the pan and cook, stirring,…

As early as 8,000 years ago, Georgians fermented grape juice by burying it in beeswax-lined clay vessels. That's still the main method they use to make wine today. Those bottles, which have recently become a subject of sommelier fascination, are a window into the flavors of the ancient past. Look for them at Potomac Wines and Spirits in Washington, DC. 2013 KINDZMARAULI MARANI SAPERAVI ($15) A beautiful example of a dry bottling of the Saperavi grape, this wine is velvety in texture, with a pleasant licorice-and-herb bitterness. 2014 VINOTERRA MTSVANE ($20) Mtsvane is a white grape that produces exotic floral aromas. The salty-spicy finish makes it hearty enough to pair with lamb. 2013 OUR WINE TSARAPI VINEYARD RKATSITELI ($23) Soliko Tsaishvili used to edit a literary magazine to support his…

PAGE 96 Total 50 min; Serves 4 to 6 ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 Fresno chile—halved, seeded and thinly sliced 3 thyme sprigs 2 oregano sprigs 2 strips of lemon zest 1 bay leaf 2½ lbs. mussels, debearded Kosher salt and pepper 4 large leeks, light green and white parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced ¼ inch thick 2½ tsp. white wine vinegar ¼ tsp. orange blossom water (optional) ½ cup tarragon leaves Three 1-inch-thick slices of sourdough bread cut from a large round loaf 5 oz. watercress leaves and small stems (1 cup) 1. In a medium saucepan, heat ¼ cup of the olive oil. Add 3 of the garlic cloves and the chile and cook over moderately high heat,…

Active 45 min; Total 2 hr 45 min Serves 6 2½ tsp. baharat (see box, p. 100) Kosher salt and pepper 6 chicken legs (3½ lbs.) 1 Tbsp. canola oil 1 small onion, halved through the root 1 lemon, halved 1 bay leaf ⅓ cup dry sherry 3¾ cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth 3 lbs. fava beans, shelled ½ cup chopped parsley, plus more for garnish Crispy Rice with Dried Mint and Lemon (recipe follows), for serving 1. In a small bowl, mix 1½ teaspoons of the baharat with 1 tablespoon of salt. Rub the mixture all over the chicken legs and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. 2. Preheat the oven to 250°. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Add 3 of the…

BEING A WINE WRITER is a little like being a doctor: People ask you for advice at parties. The difference is that doctors get asked things such as, "My toe's been swollen like a grapefruit for two weeks—what's going on there?" whereas I get asked, "I'm going to Napa Valley in a few months—what wineries do you think I should visit?" I'm not surprised by the question. There are more than 400 wineries in Napa Valley; figuring out which ones to visit is definitely tough. Here are my suggestions for mapping out a winery itinerary: GO HISTORIC. Visit at least one 19th-century property, such as Spottswoode, Beringer, Schramsberg or Inglenook (owner Francis Ford Coppola restored the property's iconic name in 2011). THINK SMALL. Throw in a few smaller, family-owned operations.…

COVER RECIPE Total 45 min plus 4 hr marinating; Makes 3 dozen "When I'm in the mood," says Andrew Zimmern, "there's not a better food than fresh shumai." This variation on the Cantonese classic has a simple and short ingredient list that makes the most of shrimp, pork, ginger, scallions and sesame. DIPPING SAUCE ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup black vinegar 1 tsp. Chinese chili-garlic sauce SHUMAI 12 oz. ground pork 6 oz. raw medium shrimp—shelled, deveined and finely chopped 4 scallions, white and light green parts only, minced 3 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil 1½ Tbsp. Shaoxing wine or dry sherry ¾ tsp. kosher salt All-purpose flour, for dusting 1 package round dumpling wrappers, thawed if frozen Napa cabbage…

Total 40 min; Serves 4 1 lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs, trimmed and sliced crosswise ¼ inch thick ¼ cup Asian fish sauce 3 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth 3 Tbsp. Thai chili paste (nam prik pao; see Note) 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 2 fresh or frozen kaffir lime leaves 1 stalk fresh lemongrass, tender inner white part only, minced (about 2 Tbsp.) Two 14-oz. cans unsweetened coconut milk ½ lb. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps thinly sliced ¼ cup fresh lime juice 2 Thai chiles, seeded and very thinly sliced on the diagonal, plus more for garnish Kosher salt ⅓ cup cilantro leaves, for garnish Limes wedges, for serving 1. In a medium bowl, toss the chicken with the fish sauce. 2. In a medium saucepan,…

Total 1 hr 40 min; Serves 4 1 lb. skirt steak, cut into 2 equal pieces 3 Tbsp. canola oil Kosher salt and pepper 4 cups baby spinach 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Dried Shrimp–Chile Jam (p. 139) 4 Portuguese rolls or brioche buns, split and toasted (see Note) 2 Tbsp. salted butter, softened Yellow mustard (optional) 1. Heat a grill pan. Rub the steak all over with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until medium-rare, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. 2. In a bowl, toss the spinach with the lemon juice and the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Season with salt. 3. Spread a heaping tablespoon…

I AM FOLLOWING chef Victoria Elíasdóttir along a narrow path of black dirt within a vast landscape of craggy basaltic hills veiled by a carpet of emerald-green wild grasses. We are lost, searching for the remote Hveradalur hot springs, but it's so beautiful here no one cares. A call to her half brother, the renowned artist Olafur Eliasson, sorts things out, and 10 minutes later we are looking at our destination from above: a narrow, sinuous valley of black rocky slopes dropping into electric green fields. Clouds of steam billow up from a narrow stream that cuts through its center. Despite our difficulty locating the springs, when we arrive there are a few dozen people floating contentedly in the slow-flowing water. In a way, it's the lack of clear signs…

Active 45 min; Total 2 hr plus overnight soaking; Serves 4 to 6 These moist, crisp, perfectly seasoned chickpea patties make one of the world's best sandwiches. Tangy Israeli pickles are a supreme partner to the fried crunch. 2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight in cold water 2 large yellow onions, finely chopped ⅓ cup minced parsley ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 tsp. ground coriander 2 tsp. ground cumin Kosher salt and pepper Canola oil, for frying Butter lettuce, tomato slices, sliced red onion, tahini, Israeli zhoug (see Note), Israeli pickles and warm pita, for serving 1. Drain the chickpeas and transfer to a large pot. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Reduce the heat to…

PAGE 114 Total 1 hr plus 4 hr marinating Serve 6 to 8 DIPPING SAUCE ¼ cup coconut vinegar (see Note) 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced CHICKEN ¾ cup coconut vinegar 9 garlic cloves, finely grated 3 stalks fresh lemongrass, tender inner white parts only, minced ¼ cup fresh lime juice ¼ cup light brown sugar, firmly packed ¼ cup minced peeled fresh ginger Two 3-lb. chickens, quartered ¼ cup annatto seeds (see Note) 1 stick unsalted butter Kosher salt and pepper Steamed white rice and lime wedges, for serving 1. Make the dipping sauce In a small bowl, mix the coconut vinegar with the garlic and chiles. Cover and set aside. 2. Make the chicken In a large bowl, whisk the coconut vinegar…

Total 45 min; Serves 4 6 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise 1 cup dry Riesling wine 2 sticks cold unsalted butter, cubed Kosher salt ½ cup whole milk ½ lb. sharp cheddar cheese, preferably Montgomery's, grated (2 cups) 1 cup chopped watercress leaves and small sprigs Sliced pickled onions, for garnish 1. In a large skillet of salted boiling water, blanch the leeks just until fork-tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to an ice bath to cool; drain well and pat dry. Wipe out the skillet. 2. Meanwhile, in a saucepan, bring the wine to a simmer. Cook over moderately low heat until reduced by half, 10 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in the butter, a few cubes at a time, until smooth. Season with…

Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Makes 1¾ cups ¾ cup canola oil ¼ cup minced peeled fresh ginger 5 garlic cloves, minced 3 shallots, minced 1 white onion, minced 2 Fresno chiles, seeded and minced 1 cup (5 oz.) dried shrimp (see Note) ¼ cup white wine vinegar ¼ cup tamarind concentrate (see Note) 1½ tsp. ground cumin ½ tsp. ancho chile powder 3 bay leaves 1. In a large nonstick skillet, heat ¼ cup of the oil. Add the ginger and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, 10 minutes. Scrape into a bowl. 2. Heat another ¼ cup of the oil in the skillet. Add the shallots, onion and chiles; cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until golden, 15 minutes. Scrape into the…

PAGE 130 Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 4 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, plus 3 Tbsp. melted 1 small onion, finely chopped ½ fennel bulb—trimmed, cored and thinly sliced crosswise 3 scallions, coarsely chopped 5 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tsp. chopped thyme 1 Tbsp. dried lovage or 1 tsp. celery seeds One 3-inch strip of orange zest plus 3 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 1 tsp. light brown sugar 1 cup dry white wine One 4-lb. steelhead trout or arctic char—cleaned, rinsed and patted dry 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Flaky sea salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. honey-Dijon mustard 1 orange, thinly sliced 1. Preheat the oven to 350°. In a medium saucepan, melt the 4 tablespoons of butter. Add the onion, fennel, scallions, garlic, thyme, lovage, orange…

PAGE 144 Active 30 min; Total 1 hr plus overnight soaking; Serves 4 to 6 ½ cup dried navy beans, soaked overnight and drained One 2-inch square of ham rind or meat 2 thyme sprigs, 4 parsley sprigs and 1 bay leaf, tied together with kitchen twine 1 qt. chicken stock or low-sodium broth 1 medium tomato, cored 3 cups lightly packed basil leaves 2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Fine sea salt and pepper 1 medium carrot, cut into ¼-inch dice 1 medium fennel bulb—halved lengthwise, cored and cut into ¼-inch dice (1 cup) 1 small zucchini, cut into ¼-inch dice 1 small onion, cut into ¼-inch dice 6 oz. haricots verts, cut into 1-inch lengths 1. In a large saucepan, cover the navy…

1. BEDSIDE CARAFE New York designer Anna Karlin believes in bold shapes and powerful hits of color. I love the jolt of yellow in this carafe set. $330; annakarlin.com. —Suzie Myers 2. GREEK OLIVE OIL Kiklos extra-virgin oil gets fruity flavor and a peppery kick from Koroneiki olives. $29 for 500 ml; theolivefruit.com. —Morgan Goldberg 3. FLAVOR MIST In flavors like juniper or sage-citrus, these spritzes can transform a cocktail or a bowl of pho. $18 for 10 ml; aliceandthe magician.com. —Julia Heffelfinger 4. CANDY DISH This glass dish, based on a Danish porcelain piece from 1944, begs for puffy pink marshmallows. $85; gardeshop.com. —SM 5. CAKE KNIFE In their Ojai workshop, Jack Gerard and Genevieve Barrere turn indigenous woods into stunning utensils. This knife is made from purple cedar.…

JUICE-SPIKED Mixologists are joining the cult of cold-pressed juice. Powering this trend is the ubiquity of juice bars and high-powered juicers, and the enormous interest in healthier sweeteners. LOW-PROOF The explosion of new vermouths, sherries and European bottled aperitifs coming to the US is fueling the low-proof drinks trend. These cocktails are relatively low in alcohol, so they're a great choice at lunch and light enough to get you through an entire dinner. COFFEE + TEA Good bartenders are precisely the obsessive types who geek out over coffee and tea; some even started their careers as baristas. This helps explain the boom in coffee and tea cocktails. Another factor: the increased availability of cold-brew coffee and excellent coffee liqueurs and teas. FROZEN Most people associate frozen drinks with spring breakers…

"What Chefs Know Best" menu: Vietnamese Green Papaya and Beet Salad (p. 62) Sautéed Shrimp in Fish Sauce Caramel (p. 64) Fragrant Crab Rice (p. 64) Go green. Green (unripe) papaya has a mild taste and a crunchy, cucumber-like texture. If you can't find it at an Asian market, sub in green mango or daikon radish. Make a lettuce "sponge." Leaves spread under the salad soak up any extra dressing. Use turbinado sugar. It adds depth of flavor to a vibrant dressing of lime juice and fish sauce. Eat your shells. The smaller the shrimp, the more tender the shells. Season rice with tea leaves. Crumble any big pieces with your fingers.…

Active 20 min; Total 1 hr Serves 4 1½ cups jasmine rice Kosher salt and pepper 3 Tbsp. black breakfast tea, preferably Japanese 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 cup minced white onion ½ lb. jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over Black sesame seeds, for garnish 1. In a medium saucepan, bring 2¼ cups of water to a boil. Add the rice and a generous pinch of salt. Stir once, cover and simmer over low heat until the water is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let steam, covered, for 20 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork and spread it out on a plate to cool slightly. 2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, toast the tea over moderately low heat, stirring, until fragrant,…

Total 45 min; Serves 4 Four 10-inch flour tortillas ⅓ cup mayonnaise 2½ Tbsp. fresh lime juice ½ tsp. ground cumin 8 cups shredded green and red cabbage (1 lb.) 1 cup chopped cilantro, plus more for serving 3 pickled jalapeños, seeded and thinly sliced (¼ cup) Kosher salt and pepper ¾ lb. large shrimp, shelled and deveined ¾ tsp. chili powder 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Sliced radishes and diced avocado, for serving 1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Invert a jumbo muffin tin on a work surface. In 2 batches, gently stuff the tortillas between the upturned muffin cups to form bowls. Bake for 15 minutes, until crisp; cool. 2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, lime juice and cumin. Add the cabbage, 1 cup of…

AT CHAUHAN ALE & MASALA HOUSE in Nashville, Chopped judge Maneet Chauhan puts a playful Indian spin on Western dishes like Frito pie. But at her quarterly biryani festivals, she hews to the Indian classics, serving four versions of the basmati-rice casserole. A favorite is the Hyderabadi one shown here, in which a dough "lid" draped over the pot seals in flavor and absorbs moisture as the rice steams. Some biryanis call for goat, quail, venison or jackfruit; this recipe features tender chunks of yogurt-marinated lamb. 123 12th Ave. N.; chauhannashville.com. Building a Biryani Once you've gathered all the ingredients, making biryani is straightforward and can be done in stages. You can marinate the lamb overnight and cook it in advance—the onions, too. You can prepare the raita a day…

EVEN IN RUSSIA, Russian food has a negative connotation," says Bonnie Morales, chef and owner of the Soviet-inspired restaurant Kachka in Portland, Oregon. "In Moscow the streets are lined with sushi restaurants." But now a slew of Russian—and Ukrainian and Georgian—restaurants and cookbooks are popularizing this heritage in the US. For instance, when Maia Acquaviva opened the Georgian restaurant Oda House in New York City three years ago, "my friends and family told me, "People don't even know where Georgia is,"" she says. That didn't matter. Her khachapuri adjaruli—a bread filled with melted cheese and a runny egg—became a minor sensation. Why is Russian and other Eastern European food popular now? For one thing, many of today's food trends—bone broths, no-waste, fermentation, pickles—are integral to these cuisines. Ukrainian chef and…

Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr; Serves 4 BROTH 3 lbs. meaty beef bones 1 onion, peeled 1 bay leaf 10 black peppercorns 5 allspice berries SOUP 3 Tbsp. canola oil ½ lb. fresh chorizo sausages 1 onion, finely chopped 1 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 carrot, peeled and coarsely grated 1 tsp. sugar Kosher salt and pepper 4 oz. mushrooms, thinly sliced 2 Tbsp. finely chopped pickles ¼ cup pickle brine from the jar ⅓ cup pitted olives, thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. capers Chopped parsley and thin lemon slices, for garnish 1. Make the broth In a large saucepan, combine all of the ingredients with 3 quarts of water. Bring to a boil, skimming off any foam from the surface. Simmer over low heat until reduced by half, about 1…

PERHAPS INSPIRED BY the mega success of cookbook superstar Yotam Ottolenghi, chefs across the US are playing with dukka, za'atar and other traditional Middle Eastern ingredients. The trend has especially taken hold in Los Angeles, where Middle Eastern essentials like pomegranates and dates grow on trees in the backyard and acclaimed chefs like Jenn Louis and Ori Menashe are opening much-anticipated Middle Eastern restaurants. Enter Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson, a duo from New York City driven west by manifest destiny…and falafel. The two worked together at Glasserie, a Middle Eastern restaurant on a quiet street in Brooklyn. They dreamed of opening a falafel shop, but it wasn't until an opportunity in California presented itself that their concept began to take shape. "Los Angeles was so much stranger than I…

Total 1 hr plus 2 hr pickling Serves 4 to 6 Young spring onions with smaller bulbs cook more evenly on the grill. If you can only find onions with larger bulbs, halve them lengthwise, then grill. 1 cup rice vinegar ¼ cup sugar 1 bay leaf Kosher salt 1 cardamom pod 1 tsp. black peppercorns 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1½ cups whole pitted prunes 1¼ cups unsalted pistachios 1 garlic clove, finely grated 1 tsp. grated lemon zest 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 25 young spring onions or large scallions, trimmed 1 cup Greek yogurt ½ tsp. Urfa or Aleppo pepper (see box, left) Mint leaves, for garnish 1. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, bay leaf, ½ teaspoon of salt and ¾…

Total 1 hr; Serves 4 to 6 The secret to this dish is packing the aromatic rice into the skillet in an even layer, then letting it cook undisturbed until an amazing golden crust forms. 2 bay leaves Kosher salt 2¼ cups basmati rice, rinsed 4½ Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 6 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. dried mint 1. In a medium saucepan, boil 8 cups of water with the bay leaves and 2 tablespoons of salt. Add the rice and cook until it begins to soften but still has a bite, 6 minutes. Drain the rice and rinse with cold water; discard the bay leaves. Transfer to a large bowl. 2. In the saucepan, melt 2½ tablespoons…

113 JAPAN 113 CHINA 115 INDIA 118 LIBERIA 136 THAILAND 136 ISRAEL 136 SPAIN 136 FRANCE 138 PHILIPPINES 138 ITALY 138 UZBEKISTAN One hallmark of America's new global kitchen is that the more obscure an ingredient, the more obsessively we seek it out. Yet for the 11 recipes here, I emphasize strong, simple flavors rather than the need for fresh galangal, say, or mutton rump fat. Are the dishes better with these ingredients? Maybe. But the more important truth is that these recipes will move you further along the path toward a delicious meal with a point of view. And that's what great food is all about. JAPAN PORK TONKATSU Tonkatsu is one of my top-five favorite foods. The crucial ingredient is possibly the best processed food on planet Earth:…

PAGE 111 Active 30 min; Total 1 hr plus overnight marinating; Serves 4 This well-known and beloved Indian dish has plenty of onions, tomatoes and vibrant spices in a rich, creamy sauce. It's possibly one of the tastiest chicken dishes ever. ¾ cup Greek yogurt ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. vindaloo spice (see Note) 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 8 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed 1 stick salted butter 2 large yellow onions, finely chopped Kosher salt and pepper One 15-oz. can crushed tomatoes ⅔ cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth 1 cup heavy cream Basmati rice, cilantro sprigs and chopped salted roasted cashews, for serving 1. In a large bowl, mix the yogurt with the vindaloo spice and lemon juice. Add the chicken thighs and turn to coat. Cover…

Shoreditch sits outside the walls and the jurisdiction of the City of London. It has always been a place where one could get away with a little more indulgence and pleasure than the city fathers might strictly approve. James Burbage set up London's first public theater in Shoreditch in 1576, 23 years ahead of William Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. "The "Ditch," as the locals call it, has always been cutting edge. In later years, this East End neighborhood became home to music halls: mirror-and-brass palaces of proletarian entertainment showcasing racy comedians, cross-dressers, magicians and dancing girls. In the 17th century, Protestant Huguenot weavers who'd been exiled from Catholic France set up a working enclave in the twisty little streets. Shoreditch became known for prostitution, drinking and wild living in the 19th…

Active 20 min; Total 40 min Serves 4 Nuno Mendes likes guests to dig into his delicious cake with their spoons, straight from the platter. 9 large egg yolks 2 large eggs ½ cup sugar 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour Flaky sea salt, for garnish 1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Line an 8-inch round cake pan with parchment paper, allowing a 3-inch overhang all around. In a bowl, beat the egg yolks, eggs and sugar at medium-high speed until fluffy and doubled in volume, about 6 minutes. With the mixer at low speed, drizzle in the 3 tablespoons of olive oil, then beat in the flour just until incorporated and scrape into the prepared pan. Bake until puffed and set around…

Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 20 min Makes 1 loaf and egg salad for 4 BREAD 2½ cups all-purpose flour 2½ cups barley flour (see Note) ½ cup salted roasted sunflower seeds ½ cup raw pumpkin seeds 4 tsp. baking powder 1½ tsp. sea salt 1½ cups buttermilk 1½ cups hot water EGG SALAD 8 large eggs 4 Tbsp. mayonnaise 4 Tbsp. sour cream 2 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. honey 1 Tbsp. minced shallot 2 Tbsp. minced scallion 2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped lovage or pale green inner celery leaves Kosher salt and pepper 1. Make the bread Preheat the oven to 400°. In a large bowl, whisk both flours with the sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, baking powder and salt. Stir in the buttermilk and hot water just until…

PAGE 117 Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min plus 2 hr chilling; Serves 8 CARAMEL 1 cup sugar 2 Tbsp. light corn syrup 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice plus 1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest CUSTARD 1½ cups milk 1½ cups heavy cream 3 large eggs 2 large egg yolks ⅔ cup sugar 1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest 1½ tsp. pure vanilla extract Kosher salt 1. Make the caramel In a small saucepan, gently stir the sugar with the corn syrup, orange juice and 2 tablespoons of water. Bring to a boil over moderate heat. Cook, without stirring, until an amber caramel forms, 6 to 8 minutes. Brush down the side of the pan with a wet pastry brush if crystals form. Remove the pan from the…

PAGE 116 Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4 to 6 3 large egg yolks 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. fine sea salt 1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil 12 small salt-packed anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced (1 Tbsp.) 24 baby artichokes (about 3 lbs.) Canola oil, for frying Maldon sea salt Lemon wedges, for serving 1. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks, lemon zest, 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and 1½ teaspoons of the fine salt. Whisking constantly, slowly stream in the olive oil until the aioli is thick and glossy. Whisk in 1 more tablespoon of the lemon juice and the anchovies. Cover and refrigerate. 2. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of lemon juice to…

PAGE 123 Total 30 min; Serves 4 8 oz. shelled fresh English peas 1 Tbsp. chervil or parsley leaves, plus small sprigs for garnish Kosher salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. cider vinegar 1 Tbsp. apple juice 1 Tbsp. chopped mint 3 oz. room temperature semi-firm goat cheese, such as Ticklemore, thinly sliced and at room temperature 2 oz. pea shoots Pea or nasturtium flowers, for garnish 1. In a saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the peas for 1 minute. Drain and transfer to an ice bath to cool. Drain well and pat dry. Transfer to a small bowl. 2. On a cutting board, mince the 1 tablespoon of chervil with ¼ teaspoon of salt. In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil with the…

Active 45 min; Total 2 hr 15 min; Serves 8 RHUBARB JAM 1 lb. rhubarb, cut into 2-inch pieces 1 cup sugar 1 cup elderflower syrup (see Note) 2 to 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice TART 1½ sticks unsalted butter, cubed, plus more for greasing 2¼ cups old-fashioned rolled oats ¾ cup barley flour ¾ cup barley flakes 1 cup packed dark brown sugar 1 tsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. thyme leaves 1 Tbsp. water TOPPING 1¼ cups skyr (Icelandic yogurt) or Greek yogurt ¼ cup sugar ½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 tsp. rose water (optional) 1 cup heavy cream 1. Make the rhubarb jam In a medium saucepan, combine the rhubarb, sugar and elderflower syrup and bring to a simmer. Cook over moderately…

Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 45 min; Serves 4 BARLEY 2 Tbsp. canola oil ¼ cup finely chopped shallots 1 celery rib, finely chopped 1¼ cups pearled barley (8 oz.) 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 bay leaves 1 cup apple juice 2½ cups water Kosher salt TOMATOES 1 lb. cherry tomatoes, halved ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup honey 2 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt 3 Tbsp. pure maple syrup 3 Tbsp. apple juice 3 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 8 oz. green tomatoes, coarsely chopped DRESSING 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1½ Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1½ Tbsp. apple juice 1 Tbsp. honey ½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 Tbsp. chopped tarragon, plus leaves for garnish Kosher salt 1. Cook the barley In a saucepan, heat the…

CHEF ERIC RIPERT of New York City's Le Bernardin travels from Bhutan to Italy to be inspired by "new architecture, new cultures, new everything." But in his memoir 32 Yolks (out this month), Ripert returns to a familiar place: the south of France, where he grew up. "At least once a week in the summers we had pistou soup," he recalls. "It's so hot there. Basically you eat lunch under the shadow of the trees and, at night, at the front of the house—sometimes in the driveway. It's a time to be convivial," he adds. "It's not a luxurious experience." Now he makes his aunt's version of the classic Provençal soup when he cooks for himself (p. 143). "It's not about experimentation," he says. "It's about great flavors that I…