Table of contents for Jun/Jul 2022 in go!

If surviving two years of Covid wasn’t enough, Russia’s invasion of Ukraine highlights an important message that most of us try to avoid thinking about: Life is short and precious. We have to make the most of it while we’re still healthy enough to enjoy it. You might have heard the term GOAT, or Greatest of All Time, usually reserved for sports stars like Muhammad Ali, Ayrton Senna and Serena Williams. Travel sites have caught on and they’re labelling 2022 as the year of the GOAT – Greatest of All Trips. An Expedia survey of 12000 travellers in 12 countries found that 65% of respondents are planning to go huge on their next trip. Searches for “epic destinations” have jumped, as people are prepared to pay more to go further…

How did you get here? DRIES KRUGER from Boksburg writes: We visited Augrabies Falls National Park in February this year. We climbed to the top of Moon Rock – two bare granite domes – and found these “fish” in a small pool of water. What are they and how on earth did they end up there? GENEVIEVE MAASDORP, spokesperson for SANParks, says: Aneke Kruger, a master’s student at the University of the Free State who specialises in plankton, supplied this answer for us: The “fish” the reader saw were fairy shrimp. They have translucent bodies and orange tails. The adult females have bright blue egg sacs, which turn brown over time. Fairy shrimp are filter feeders and they eat algae in the rock pools. The shrimp are spread to these…

Between June and October each year, southern right whales migrate from Antarctica to the bays of the Western Cape to calve. But climate change is disrupting the ocean’s normal processes and affecting their food supply. This is negatively impacting on the number of whales making the journey. Every year, a three-day aerial survey is done between Nature’s Valley and Muizenberg to count the number of cows and calves. In 2016, a 32-year low was recorded: 55 mother-and-calf pairs. Last year was more promising at 191 pairs, but the number is still far from optimal. To better understand what’s going on, WWF South Africa has teamed up with the Whale Unit from the University of Pretoria’s Mammal Research Institute, which has been monitoring southern right whales since 1969 – the longest…

Addo is one of only a few places in southern Africa where the flightless dung beetle is still found. They especially like the dung of bigger grass-eaters like elephants and buffalo. An elephant can eat up to 300 kg of plant material per day. They don’t digest all their food – you can still see the twigs and spekboom leaves if you look closely – so only the adult beetles can eat this dung. Buffalo are ruminants with four stomachs (like cattle) and produce a softer, better digested dung – the ideal incubator for dung beetle larvae. Watch them work: The female beetle shapes the dung into a ball, rolls it away and buries it in soft sand. The beetle that follows her is the male – they mate as…

Gate times: October to March from 5.30 am to 6.30 pm; April to September from 6 am to 6 pm. No matter which gate you use or section you visit, you’ll pay a daily conservation fee of R90 per adult; R45 per child; free with a Wild card. No citrus! Addo’s elephants still get stressed and aggressive when they smell oranges. Leave your fruit at home. Game drives. Six daily game drives depart from Main Camp at different times. For most you’ll be able to book a spot an hour beforehand, but not the first morning drive (which departs at 6 am) – book a day in advance. All day options cost R439,35 per adult; R219,17 per child aged 6 – 11. The night drive is R469,65 per adult; R234,32…

WHY? We publish a selection of reader pictures in every issue. Don’t be shy, haul out those shots you’ve been hoarding on your computer and send them to us! We like just about anything: wildlife, landscapes, portraits, holiday snaps or bugs in your garden. HOW? Send your photos to takeyourpic@gomag.co.za Submit only your three best shots each month. Don’t send files bigger than 4 MB – if we need a bigger version, we’ll ask for it. Give the name, surname, home town and contact number of the photographer. Also include info about where and how the shot was taken, and what equipment was used. If you manipulated your photo in any way, tell us what you did. THE FINE PRINT We reserve the right to use your photos elsewhere in…

Whichever way you approach Clarens, the drive is beautiful. The R712 through Golden Gate Highlands National Park might be the most beautiful (where else does a public road cut through a conservation area, with the Drakensberg towering over you in golden hues?), but the route via Bethlehem from the north, through Naauwpoort Nek to the base of Rooiberg, is also wonderful: The pink cliffs hug the town closely, and to the south the purple curves of the Maluti Mountains reach into the sky. Clarens was named after another mountainous place. In 1904, former president Paul Kruger spent his last months in exile in the village of Clarens in Switzerland. The settlement in South Africa was named in 1912 to commemorate the role Kruger played during the Basotho wars (1858 –…

• As the human population grows, we take up more and more space and the veld where cheetahs can roam freely – their habitat – shrinks. • Cheetahs mostly hunt during the day (other big cats hunt at night), so they’re more visible and are sometimes shot and killed. Cheetahs also get caught in traps set for antelope. • Some people steal cheetah cubs and sell them as pets. • Cheetahs are easily chased off by other predators. Lions and hyenas will eat their food.…

CapeNature is offering a whopping 40% discount on select self-catering accommodation and campsites if you book, pay and stay between 1 May and 31 August. Hike, bike and birdwatch, and when it gets dark, read and sip red wine at the fireside. Here’s the list of eligible accommodation options: • Anysberg (campsite only) • Cederberg Wilderness (Algeria cottages and camping) • Cederberg Wilderness (Kliphuis cottages and camping) • Gamkaberg Nature Reserve • Goukamma Nature Reserve • Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve • Keurbooms Nature Reserve • Kogelberg Nature Reserve • Limietberg Nature Reserve (Tweede Tol campsite) • Marloth Nature Reserve • Rocherpan Nature Reserve • Robberg Nature Reserve • Vrolijkheid Nature Reserve How do I book? Easy! Do it online at booking.capenature.co.za; e-mail reservation. alert@capenature.co.za or call 087 087 8250 Read the…

The Living Deserts of southern Africa by Barry Lovegrove, Struik Nature R480 in bookstores When you travel the arid corners of South Africa, Namibia and Botswana, you often wonder how on earth anything could survive – much less thrive. This book by the late biologist Barry Lovegrove holds the answer. First published in 1993, the new edition offers the most recent research on how animals and plants cope with extreme temperatures and water and food scarcity, in the desert, arid savannah, succulent Karoo and Nama Karoo biomes. Detailed, full-colour photographs accompany the text and there are handy diagrams and maps as well. Once you understand how these delicate ecosystems work, you’ll want to spend your next holiday sitting on a dune in the Kalahari to see it all in action!…

Hapoor Dam was named after an elephant bull that dominated the area from 1944 to 1968. He had a big hole in his left ear – apparently caused by a hunting rifle – and a bad temper. Hapoor killed another elephant bull called Bellevue in 1959 and was also responsible for the death of a cow called Ouma. His reign of terror ended in 1968 when one of Ouma’s grandsons, Lanky, dethroned the 44-year-old brute. He wandered alone for the rest of his life. One day, he managed to climb over Armstrong’s elephant-proof fence and rangers were forced to euthanise him. A cast of Hapoor’s head hangs in the Ulwazi Interpretive Centre in the main camp.…

WESTERN CAPE The Cape Fold Mountains get snow almost every year, with Matroosberg near Ceres usually being first. Further away from Cape Town, the Cederberg and Swartberg are great places to see snow with fewer people around. CERES Nandi Williams from Hout Bay writes: In August 2021, we heard that Ceres had received a fresh blanket during the night. Completely ill prepared (next time we’ll wear more layers), we set off in our Land Rover. I think the whole of Cape Town had heard the news too, and the journey ended up taking five hours, more than double what we’d expected. My husband Grant was grumbling – he loves adventure but hates traffic. Had it not been for the mini snowmen that decorated almost every homeward-bound car, we might have…

Jocelyn Hayward, Clarens Interiors Years ago, a group of children painted a big smiley face on a billboard on Mount Horeb. People like to take a photo there. Search for “Smiley face on Mount Horeb” on Google Maps. Most of the farms around Clarens also have hiking trails to explore, like the Yellowstone Trail ( 083 297 7209) on the road to Bethlehem. There’s a nice sundowner bar opposite the Methodist church called Triple Two On Main ( 078 005 2224). It’s tradition among locals to attend the quiz night every Tuesday. The residents go out on Mondays and Tuesdays because all the tourists have gone home by then. Lallies Delport, Ash River Lodge In Golden Gate, behind the office at Glen Reenen, there’s a 1 km trail to a…

LESOTHO LANDMARKS  Duration: Six days, five nights (lodge and guesthouse accommodation) DATES AND RATES 12 – 17 February 2023 R14 950 per adult sharing; half-price for children under 10 THE TEAM Your tour leader is an experienced nature conservationist and adventure guide. He will be in radio contact with you at all times to impart a wealth of biological, cultural, historic and 4x4 knowledge. INCLUDED IN THE RATE • Lodge and guesthouse accommodation for five nights. • Breakfast and supper at the guesthouses every day. During daily excursions, the Bhejane guide and his assistant will prepare picnic lunches for you. WHAT YOU SHOULD BRING • Your own 4x4 vehicle; fuel is for your account • Valid passports and documentation (required at the border post) • Money for border-crossing fees To…

A kiss for mummy I photographed this cute moment in January, in the north of the Kruger Park. We drove the S63 past the fever tree forest and the Pafuri picnic site, and came across a small troop of vervet monkeys. There were lots of babies, but this one was quite a character. It was pulling faces and sticking out its tongue. A moment to warm the heart! MARELIZE OTTO, Pretoria One fish, to go! I photographed this African fish-eagle at the bird hide next to Mankwe Dam in Pilanesberg Game Reserve. We’re regular visitors to the reserve, which has a variety of birds and animals, including the Big Five. I love bird photography and the hides in the reserve offer great opportunities. My main goal during my most recent…

Travelling comes in many shapes and forms, but the easiest way to lose yourself in a different world is through the pages of a book, especially during winter. Here are five unique, independent South African bookstores to add to your must-visit list. There are many more – write to us about your favourite shop: editor@gomag.co.za FABLES BOOKSHOP Originally situated in Makhanda near Rhodes University, Fables specialises in Africana books. The owner, Ian Balchin, has been dealing in out-of-print books for more than 30 years. Pop in to find a rare gem (some even qualify under the National Treasures Act) or buy a reading book by your favourite local author. Where? 258 Kowie Road, Bathurst Contact: 046 625 0202; fables.co.za THE BOOK LOUNGE Step off the pavement of Cape Town’s busy…

Bird? Plane? Supermoon! The full moon on 13 July has a few names. In the northern hemisphere, it’s known as the Buck Moon because it’s the time of year when deers’ antlers start to grow. In the southern hemisphere, specifically in South Africa, this holds no real relevance, so the Centre for Astronomical Heritage (CfAH) christened it the Meerkat Moon instead. If you’d like to read the full story about why the meerkat was chosen, head to cfah.org.za/fullmoon/ meerkat-moon. The main reason is that meerkats feature prominently in San mythology, but it’s also a reference to the MeerKAT radio telescope in Carnarvon in the Karoo, a precursor to the Square Kilometre Array (SKA) telescope. Together with a sister SKA telescope in Australia, they will produce astronomical images that exceed the…

1919 – Major PJ Pretorius is ordered to exterminate the last elephants in the area. 1931– With only 11 elephants left, Addo Elephant National Park (45 km2) is established. The elephants still cause damage to farms and are sometimes run over by trains. Park ranger SH Trollope puts out oranges, pumpkins, lucerne and pineapples to keep the elephants within the park borders. 1954– Park manager Graham Armstrong erects an elephant-proof fence around the conservation area, using lift cables and 4 m-long tram rails. There are 22 ellies in the park. 1956 to 1958 – Springbok herds are released, but develop heartwater, a tick-borne disease, and die. Over the next 20 years, black rhino and hippo are established in separate camps with viewpoints near the fence. Addo also acquires eland, zebra…

• Addo has several botanical reserves. Big herbivores like elephants, rhinos and buffalo can’t access these fenced conservation areas, which allows the park to study the recovery rate of vegetation more accurately. • When the park was established, a herd of 30 buffalo roamed the area. The current population is descended from this group. Addo’s buffalo have lived in isolation for generations and are disease-free, without any cases of bovine tuberculosis, corridor disease or foot-and-mouth disease. This makes them sought-after at wildlife auctions. • The Colchester coastal area is not open to visitors. St Croix Island and Bird Island are home to Africa’s biggest breeding colonies of Cape gannets and African penguins respectively.…

The exclusive Nyathi rest camp is 12 km from Main Camp in a fenced area with lion, elephant, black rhino, buffalo and eland. Each of the self-catering units has a braai on a deck; the bigger units have splash pools. A unit for two people costs R2 350 per night; a unit for four costs R5 200 per night; and a unit for six costs R4 930 per night for the first four people; plus R530 per extra adult; R265 per child. The Narina bush camp in the Zuurberg section consists of four two-man tents with a communal ablution block and an equipped kitchen. The camp is booked exclusively. From R1 545 per night for the first four people; R290 per extra adult; R145 per child. There is no power…

DOMINIQUE MAREE IG: @dominique_wildlife_ photography Nikon D810 Nikon 400 mm lens DOMINIQUE WRITES: We toured the Kgalagadi in December 2018. One morning, we were driving from Nossob to Twee Rivieren when we came across a pride of lions. We pulled over to watch them, with two other vehicles. A lioness lay under a tree while two cubs played around her. Later, a herd of springbok slowly made their way along the Nossob riverbed. The cubs were very interested in the antelope. Their mom was relaxed and the cubs wandered off to watch the herd. When the springbok drew near the cubs, the wind direction changed and the herd smelled danger and moved away. I took this photo of one of the cubs keeping an eye on the springbok. My settings:…

Oven-baked chicken curry Serves 6 Preparation time 30 minutes, plus time to marinate Cooking time about 1 hour You need • 12 chicken drumsticks • 1 tablespoon tomato paste • 2 tablespoons medium masala • 2 cloves of garlic, chopped • 2 cm fresh ginger, peeled and grated • juice of half a lemon • salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • 2 bay leaves, crumbled • 1 cup yoghurt • 1 big aubergine, in thin slices • about 300 g pumpkin, in thin slices or cubes • 1 tablespoon olive oil • 1 teaspoon fennel seeds • 1 tin (410 g) chopped tomato • 1 cup cream • 1 red chilli, chopped • 100 g roasted cashews • steamed rice and rotis, to serve Here’s how 1 Use a sharp knife to make two deep cuts into each drumstick – this will make the meat…

Choose your own adventure in the world’s largest green canyon. The sharp whistle of a sombre greenbul rings out. I look around. Trees stretch towards the sun and spread a beautiful canopy; a stream trickles along beside the trail and the air is thick with humidity. Suddenly, a crimson flash catches my eye. I duck off the trail to follow the scarlet streak, which comes to rest in a matumi tree. It’s not the greenbul, it’s a narina trogon – a lifer for most people. What a sighting! A few minutes later, I arrive at the edge of a clear pool at the base of a waterfall. This is paradise, and it’s not difficult to find… Indeed, the Waterfall Trail is one of three easily accessible trails in the Blyde…

TENTED ACCOMMODATION Day 1: Hluhluwe-iMfolozi We meet at Memorial Gate, in the far north of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve. Our guide will brief us, hand out two-way radios and serve lunch. On our way to our camp, the game-rich area will be the perfect introduction to this adventure. We end the day around the campfire, enjoying the first of many bush meals prepared by the chefs. Day 2: Hluhluwe-iMfolozi We leave on a game drive before meeting at the Centenary Centre. During the visit to the museum and information centre you will learn more about rhino conservation and game capture. We later enjoy a picnic lunch in the park before heading back to camp in the afternoon. Day 3: Black Rock After breakfast we head towards Black Rock where we will…

In May 2021, I visited the Kruger Park with my friends Toy and Marianne Kruger. One day at around 2 pm, we were driving along the S30 from Mlondozi Dam towards Skukuza. We pulled over at a low-water bridge to see whether there was any action in the spruit. There was a female bateleur on the sand near the water. She moved around as if looking for something and then hopped onto a rock and pulled a fish from the shallows. 1 The fish was already dead but apparently still fresh enough to eat. I took photos with my Panasonic Lumix FZ2500. We were the only vehicle at the sighting. The bateleur noticed movement in the sky – a tawny eagle – and covered the catch with her body. She…

The campsite at the ocean edge is deserted. The beach too, except for a clutch of white-fronted plovers and piles of washed-up kelp. This is not an unusual scene on the sparsely populated West Coast, but it’s early January – peak holiday season. All the other towns and villages are bustling with beach umbrellas, kids on bikes, teenagers and surfers… But not Hondeklip Bay. The houses here are surrounded by plains of grey scrubland. It’s about 90km north-west of Garies as the jackal buzzard flies, but you won’t pass through here accidentally. You come here because you love it, or because you’re curious. before I end up in the former… I’m sitting on the deck of one of the Honne-Pondokkies – self-catering wooden cabins in a mini “resort” close to…